key won;'t turn in 1989 300E
 

This problem started like 2 weeks ago, I notice when I put the key in the igintion it won't turn, after 3-5 tries it finally went and the car started. BUT Now it won;t turn at all, I could turn with all my might and nothing, car is stuck in front of my house without any way to start it. I notice the notches on the tumbler aren't lined up and it looks like it past postion one on the ignition switch. ( towards the left) How do I go about repairing this problem and how big of a deal is it? If anyone could help it would be great. I could get the car out of gear, so the car does roll and the steering wheel is not locked, just in case that helps. im afraid if I move the steering wheel too much it will lock up. any help would be great Thanks

Check to make sure your coulumn lock is not binding...
 

When you try this again, pull on the steering wheel in a turning motion, to see if this frees up the key. The MB column and many others employ a combination ign switch and column lock. If you have pressure on the steering wheel when it is locked, it will apply that pressure right onto the key assembly and make it difficult or impossible to turn the key.

If on the other hand wiggling the wheel in either direction does not help free upo the key, then you'l likely have to change out the cylinder. If you have your orginal keys from MB, The master kets, they can have the new cylinder's tumbles set the same way as with the old unit, use the same key.

Good luck

Try a little vibration
 

I just went through a session with my ignition. Different problem, but in no way fun. That lock and cylinder is not very accessable, even with the lower panel, under the dash removed. But I have read from previous post that high speed vibs from something like an electric tooth brush power unit, possibly even an electric shaver is at times enough to loosen the lock. And as the previous writer noted, make sure that you relieve all the pressure you can. My thinking is that a quick short blast of WD-40 might also be helpful. To vib it without removing the bottom dash panel I would suggest it up against the ignition. Give it some vibes and a gentle turn. Remember - force will only get you more problems. Check "Diesel Giant" postings for excellant ways and means of removing ignition which will pprobably have to be done sooner or later.

Thank for all the idea, the more the better, I will try everything tomorrow and I will post my outcome. thanks again more suggestion welcomed

whatever you do... DON'T FORCE IT!!!!! I am a certified locksmith, and forcing it is not the best way to go, if you do, you'll break the key off, thus incurring a broken key extraction. try some wd40, but what probably happened is either your key or wafers have worn down, or the lock is gummed up with old grease, as was the case with my sd's doorlocks. i had to remove the lock and "de gum" it.

what is a "wafer"?

in your house door lock there are "pins" shaped like this []
...........................................................................v
and they are round, in your car (many cars, incl. my mercedes, so probably more mbs too)
there are "wafers" that are [] square and very flat, they look like the 2 small items in the top of this picture http://www.padandwheels.com/mr2/tails/removewafer.jpg
those are probably ford wafers, the mb ones are a little diffrent, some of the newer ones are split in two (to resist picking) but in my doorlock they are not split, but are diffrent in that there is a little nub on the inside of the hole in the center of the wafer so it looks like this
[--]
[...]
[-..] < nub here
[--]
that nub is so that the key can contact the wafer in the right spot because many of our mb keys are high-security (look at a mb key and if you notice the cuts are on the side of the key, not on the top, so it requires a special key machine to duplicate)

EDIT: ignore periods in ascii art.

Happens all the time.

You need a new switch.

Cylinder pops right out with correct special tool.

Must order switch from dealer and prove your ownership (same as getting replacement key)

You are on borrowed time. Run to the dealer as fast as you can and order a new tumbler. When it fails for good, and it will, you are looking at an $800+ repair job.

I had that problem about three years ago, during which time the MB tech said, "the 89's are starting to go" referring to the tumblers. Almost $1,000 and five days later, it was fixed. Had I acted sooner, it would have been a DIY job for about $100.

What if I'm not a DIY
 

I'm nearly 100 miles from the nearest MB dealer. How do I go about getting my indy to do this for me?

They probably can't. MB requires the owner to show up with proof of ownership, to order a new key or tumbler. Try calling the dealer and see what they say. Perhaps you can work something out, i.e. you fax them a copy of the title and your driver's license.

If the tumbler is not sticking, it might also be prudent to remove it now, and use a screwdriver or other tool to start the car. When it fails, it will do so without warning; a few close calls, then a few days later it locks up for good. Please do what you can to fix it while it is still easy and cheap to do so.

Ask him.

IIRC mine handled all the paperwork for me. If yours pleads ignorance he isn't well versed in Mercedes.

The part CAN be shipped.

A bad problem in mercedes. I have 3 and all 3 have had to have the ignition switch replaced. My 190e 3 weeks ago. I usually do alot of the work myself but that one I wont touch. Call AAA and tell them to send a tow dolly truck and surely there is a former Mb dealership mechanic around. new switches only come with one key so you better ask them to cut you a coupke extras. About 350.00. The part is about 130.00 and 2-3 hour labor.

1983- 300DT-439,000 miles
1991- 300E- 371,000 miles
1991- 190E- 172,000 miles

But, the new switch will use same keys you're presently using.

Did you have the switch replaced or just the tumbler?

The tumbler-only is a 15 minute procedure... assuming you can get the key to the #1 position.

Jeff Pierce