Auxilliary heating pump W124 260E 1988 - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

taker22 · #16 10-25-2005, 06:11 PM

look at the initial post. his is LEAKING and he wants to know whether it can be repaired or if it has to be replaced. yours was simply not working so your choice was simpler. I live in the cold Northeast so I prefer to have mine working properly without leaks. Sorry if you cannot grasp that.

#17 10-26-2005, 05:12 AM

Fast lane the sites sponsor can order you the gasket to stop the leak it cost me like 3 bucks for mine but it took a couple weeks to get it. PN 000 586 05 83
Dave S

mctwin2kman · #18 10-26-2005, 08:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by taker22

look at the initial post. his is LEAKING and he wants to know whether it can be repaired or if it has to be replaced. yours was simply not working so your choice was simpler. I live in the cold Northeast so I prefer to have mine working properly without leaks. Sorry if you cannot grasp that.

Sorry you can't grasp the it is leaking so bypass it and try that. Save a few bucks if it works and he/she is happy. That is all I was saying. Funny I get fine heat with the thing still in line and not spinning. SO if anything it is impeding flow and I get great heat. Actually enough to make me roll the windows down. Well since I have a sticky blend air flap that I have to look into. It was only a sugestion. If you do not like it fine, no need to keep going on about it and insinuate someone is cheap or can not afford some part that you would gladly pay full price for. The can is 18 years old and of course he could just buy a used part or a new one or just bypass it. Three choices I give him instead of the one you had. Sorry but I like to know what something does and why it is there before I go replacing it. If it is not needed and is marked as an Aux type object then I use my brain to decide. Same thing I did for my clutch fan. Clutch died and I took the fan out, it was a drag on the lil M102 as it was. Just made it so the Aux Electric Fan kicks on at 100 degrees instead if the main fan, and it even goes to high speed at 110 like it normally would do. The engineer in me just does not like throwing money at something if not needed. And hey 18 years ago this may have been the way it was! I will actually now have to look under the hood of my W203 and see if they still use that silly aux pump on the newer ones though. Just curious now.....

joel · #19 10-26-2005, 08:55 AM

BEfore any repair, just make sure pump motor works!!

csnow · #20 10-26-2005, 12:27 PM

A number of folks have reported good results removing the pump and replacing with a fitting. They claim that there is no perceptible change in heater performance. Not much harm in trying it.

#21 10-26-2005, 04:20 PM

If you live in a cold climate and your idle speed is set correctly you will notice a drop in heater output at idle with out the pump
On the other hand if is above 35 or so degrees and you don’t sit idling much you wont notice any heater output change without the pump. It is a $3 plus shipping and 20-minute job to rebuild the pump.
It is for you to decide weather it is worth fixing but I would think if you got stuck on the road while an accident is cleared and it is 0 degrees out you would be much more comfortable if the pump where repaired.
Dave S

mctwin2kman · #22 10-26-2005, 04:40 PM

I would step lower than 32 degrees F though. We have temps much lower than that here and I see no coldness when at a light. Since the CC should adapt to the in cabin temp change and adjust the intake flaps to more heat than cold. Mine works just fine with the pump off at a stop light in an temp. Even at 0 F she works just fine heat wise. This morning it was pumping out tons of heat, albeit was 40 degrees out, I had to open a window and adjust the temp down some to stay comfy. Then again I normally do not like a whole ton of heat, I keep the W203 set to 68 degrees all winter long on the CC, then again I use the heated seats liberally. Am installing them in the W201 in the next few weeks as well, since that thing blasts heat and my blend/air flaps are sticky so it is either full heat, or a nice mix of cold ass air and some heat. Not due to the pump at all but a vacuum pod that is either bad or sticky. That will be fixed shortly as well. But either way there seems to be plenty of heat without that pump. I am thinking it was in the mix due to the wide range of areas and climates that MB's are sold. Obviously it does something or it would not be there, but it is labelled as and Aux Water Pump so to me it is there for certain places but not really all.

Like I said just try it without the thing, or of course rebuild it. No need throwing money at something if you do not really need to, since it does not affect the operation of the vehicle itself or a safety issue.

bill · #23 10-28-2005, 10:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cc260E

Thanks bobbyv,
If this pump is mainly usefull at idling, would it explain that the temperature of my engine goes sometimes high , even with a new fan cluth and new water pump, and comes back to normal as soon as the car is in moving?

Does Auxiliary Water Pump useful for reducing overheat?
I mean while working the car go heat or cool?

Jeff & Jo · #24 10-29-2005, 12:59 AM

Potomac MB Recyclers (or something like that) 800-831-7686 sells these aux. pumps for $50 each, tested and guaranteed, for 100 days I believe. They have several in stock now...checked on price yesterday. Good luck!
JEFF & JO
'84 380SL (mine)
'91 300CE (hers)

cc260E · #25 10-29-2005, 08:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bill

Does Auxiliary Water Pump useful for reducing overheat?
I mean while working the car go heat or cool?

Yes that is my question. Since I have new a waterpump and a new fanclutch the temperature at idling reaches higher temp than before. I would like to know what may be the reason.

cc260E · #26 10-29-2005, 10:53 AM

First Many thanks to Pesuazo.

I tried also to repair. It is absolutely easy.

The part A is a special shaped gasket, I do not think it can be found separately.

The pictures show all the parts and the O-rings that, from my point of view, are ensuring leak tightness.

I did not have the new o-rings, but boiled them into water 30mn. The smaller o-rind recovered a bit his shape. The other one not, but all seems OK.

Reinstalled them.

I will let you know how long they will work fine.

Nevertheless, I will try to find new spare ones now that I know their dimensions.

86560SEL · #27 10-30-2005, 07:44 PM

mctwin2kman- Pay no attention to taker22. He can be quite rude. I see that I am not the first one that he has had a cross remark to.

Quote:

Originally Posted by mctwin2kman

Sorry you can't grasp the it is leaking so bypass it and try that. Save a few bucks if it works and he/she is happy. That is all I was saying. ..

mctwin2kman · #28 10-31-2005, 08:48 AM

Well I am going to post something of mine from another forum. My pump does work as you will see in the post, but it is not turning on and off properly. So I have this question for you all to see if anyone here can help me find my problem.

What electronic component powers the Aux Pump? My aux pump works if I manually ground the brown wire on the pump. I Have 12V at the other wire and when I probe the ground wire with a test light I get some power on that line as well. So if I ground that line the pump works fine. When I turn off the CC unit thought the pump is still on. So I am wondering what controls the pump. Does the CC unit supply 12V when needed to turn it on? Does the CC unit Complete the ground for the pump to engage it? Also if the pump is off does the Heater Control Valve close? Currently my Heater Valve never closes and no vacuum is even sent down that line, not even when the CC is set to Off or the AC is engaged! My Aux pump does not turn on either, even though it works, but is leaving an open ground. I checked the Heater control valve and the vacuum element is fine. So what is missing or wrong here, new CC or new Vacuum Unit in dash for CC unit. By vacuum I mean the unit in the dash that splits the vacuum and sends it to the appropriate vacuum elements to open and close all the vents properly. By CC unit I mean the Climate Control Push Button Unit in the dash.