Engine stalls when placed in gear (when engine warm) problem?
 

I mentioned this before, but I was thinking it was something else causing it. I was told before by someone that the fluid in the tranny may need changing, because it was "clunking" harshly into gear at the time, but now that I do not hold the brake when I shift out of park, it does not do that. I thought I had a trick to it, because when I would shift into "R" or "D" when the brake was not depressed, it would not stall out. Today, there were two occasions where that did not work. Actually one time today when I was leaving the dentist office, it did it and I re-started and finally got it to keep from stalling and pulled out to the road. Just before I got there, the engine stalled out again, even when in "D". It had never did this before. It idles at about 500 RPM when in gear when it is running. It does not do this when I first leave, when the engine is cold. Actually, it only seems to do it if the engine temperature is above 80*C, such as when I am in town driving and make a quick stop and back out before the engine cools below 80*C.

I do not think it is the idle, because if it were any higher, it would really bang into gear. Do you think it could really be the tranny fluid causing this? I checked it and it was full and seemed to be OK. The car does not run the smoothest when it is first started in the morning (if it is cold out), so I am thinking this all may be linked? Perhaps a vacuum leak somewhere? It does not sound like it anyway, but I guess a small leak could not be heard.

Well, I am off to the dealership to pick up my antenna seal and perhaps get a key made.

BTW- the car is a 380SE.

Thanks in advance.

MB's of this era have electrically controlled idles. They should hold their idle rpm regardless of engine load or engine temp.

Sounds like some sort of electrical problem.

Thanks.

Well that sounds wonderful. I guess I will call one of our local MB independent repair shops and see if they will check it out for me.

86 560 slow idle?
 

Never heard of an idle control failure/problem on these resulting in a SLOW idle unless the ldle control valve was STUK closed. Remove it and clean it well with spray type carb/choke cleaner. You can test this first by unpluggin gthe electrical connection to the ilde control valve--then engine SHOULD speed up to about 1700 RPM.

Thanks. Not sure if it (idle controls) are the same, but my car is a 1985 380SE. My user name was from years ago.

Also, my idle is actually not low, as far as I know, but it just stalls out when I
engage the gears. :confused:

can't find valve....
 

(1990 560sel)
sorry to be a noob here, but i've seen pictures of the idle control valve itself during my search, but I haven't seen any pictures of where it is in the car (while installed). i ask this b/c i tried to use the cd manual to find it but am having no luck... can someone direct me where to look for it?

btw - thanks to those who posted the location of the computer, i was able to find that quickly

thanks bri...

Did you unplug the idle control valve to see what happens? The motor will slowly rev to around 1700 if its working. I agree with the tuneup strategy and make sure the timing is correct. How is the power otherwise? I know thats a dumb question for a 380, but can it at least outrun a Geo Metro? If its severely slow there may be other issues such as valves or rings.

Thanks. The plugs were changed about 2 weeks ago- the problem remains. I have engaged the gears with the brake released and it does not stall as often then, *IF* the car is already going that direction - putting less strain on the engine when placed in gear. Such as if I head downhill and put it in drive, it will not stall, but if I am facing uphill, it will stall or visa-versa.

Not sure when the plug wires or distributor was replaced.

I may take it to the shop soon to see if a vac leak can be detected, because it is getting old having to park in a space where I will only have to shift once (into drive) instead of backing out, then forward again. Lessens the chance of stalling.

If you are asking me about the power - it is adequate. It is as powerful as any other car I have owned, but it is not a rocket for sure. I have never taken it beyond 3K rpms, as I still have not had the need to. Anyway, @ this mileage and age, I try to drive the car easily.

Stalled out once today at a stop. (Oh my!)
 

RAYMR : do you know exactly where this valve is located? I have of two different places. One person told me its at the back of the firewall and someone else said it was near the distributor. I also need to know how to remove.

My car has not stalled when engaged in gear lately, but this evening something different happened. I was driving about 45 mph on a 4-lane boulevard in town and had to make a sudden stop, as someone had stalled out a traffic signal. When I came to a stop, my engine stalled - right in the middle of the road. :eek: Luckily, it immediately started right back up and I went on my way. I also noticed today that sometimes when it is idling in gear, it will have a very sporadic and quick "stumble", like it wants to stall, but it does not.

You asked about power - its not a tire burner, but it will get along pretty well. You mentioned rings. It is not smoking or burning oil, so I guess they are OK. The car has 264K, which is a lot of miles, but from what I understand, this should not be the end of the road for a typical MB V8. ??

Thanks!

Raymr- do I unplug it while the engine is already running, or before I start it? I would like to clean it, because I have heard this could be the problem, but I do not know how to remove it.

I didnt have this problem on my 380. However the idle is a rough going battle on these cars and when perfect it WONT be for long.

Then you got the water leaks aswell....things just pile up and its like having a child in the end.

Hope you can get it worked out.

Help
 

86560SEL - The ICV is located at the front of the engine. You unplug the ICV while the engine's running.

I am curious to know also, because I also have the exact same problem with my 91 420SEL stalling immediately when put in gear from P or N. The problem has only started recently in two different occasions. I thought it was weird at first when it happened. I restarted the car, put in gear and stalled again. The third time, it was fine and drove away.

I do not have the problem stalling while driving like others have experienced in many of the searched threads. Maybe this is the beginning of something worse waiting to happen to me??..

I checked the ICV by unplugging and the idle shot up to 1500RPM so I think the ICV is fine. I do not have the problem restarting. It starts right up after stalling.

I've spents the last couple days searching this site and other Mercedes forums of the related problem. I've read so many threads and this is the only one close to what I am experiencing.

Anybody else has any ideas why it stalls when put into gear from P or N?

THANKS

Thanks NEWR for that info.

Mine also easily restarts when it stalls out when I place it in gear. Sometimes it will stall a couple of times before it finally goes. As mentioned, if I do not press the brakes when I shift, it is not as bad, IF I am already aimed in the direction I am going and it is facing slightly downhill.

Most recently, it has even stalled out when I make a spot at a stop sign, or traffic signal. This is frustrating, because as you know on these cars, you have to turn the ignition off, then back on to restart.

I have hesitated on checking it, because I can live with the stalling out when I shift from "R" or "D", but when it stalls on the road when I stop- that is a different story and in some cases - scary.

If I figure it out, I will post it here. If you do first, I would appreciate whatever you find out.

Good luck!

Did you unplug the ICV with the engine running? Actually you can unplug it with the motor off. When you restart it, you should see the idle RPM go up.

When my dad owned the car, he said it stalled out at weird times, usually while slowing down to take a turn. The prior owner got rid of the car for that reason. It happened to me once in front of my house.

I did discover a loose connector on the module behind the passenger side kick panel. It was only attached half way. I pushed it back on tight and it never stalled since. But I can't say for absolutely sure that was the cause.

My symptoms or his?

My car supposedly has a nearly new fuel pump. Is the relay seperate?

QUOTE=Col.Klink]Your symptoms sound like a classic example of the fuel pump relay going out ....[/QUOTE]

Thanks. No, I have not tried it yet, but I will on my nexy day off (Tuesday).

Mine has not yet stalled when turning, but only when coming to a stop. Sometimes it runs fine at stops. Very sporadic. It never seems to do it on my first trip out for the day, but if I come back home, then out again, it usually stalls at least once in town. :rolleyes:

I will also check that connector you mentioned.

G'day 86

Yes the fuel pump relay is separate, it's one of those silver boxes in the fuse box.

Have you got yourself one of those $30 service CDs from MBUSA? They are invaluable - although don't have everything (transmission) they help a lot, if just to identify things.

Cheers

Thanks. Sounds like I need one of those CD's.

Off to work I go.
Carry on.

Thanks again.

Update
 

It happened again last week. Engine stalled when put into gear D or R (note - I do not have problem stalling while driving or comming to a stop)

Whenever it dies when shift into gear D or R, I also notice little rough idle and if i give it a little gas, engine would stalls out. Now, if I let it runs for few minutes until the idle smooth out, then engine will not stall when shift into gear D or R.

I also have couple other problems that may or may not be related.
1. Sometime engine stalls immediately after it starts.
2. High idle (1000RPM) when gear in P or N. 700RPM when in D or R.

I decided to have the pro check it out instead because I am tired of this guessing game. I just want to solve it quickly and sleep in peace instead of monkey around with it until I get it right. I also don't want to be stranded on the road down the line.

Before I brought it to the indy shop. I replaced the fuel pump relay and still stalls when shifts into gear D or R.

Here is the diagnostic from my indy shop for the problems
1. Engine stalls immediately after starts
2. High idle
3. Sometime engine stalls when shift into D or R.

Indy - Checked fuel pressure and tested idle control system. Indy recommended replacing idle control unit, idle control valve (sometime sticking) and overload protection relay.

I have all those stuff from a part out car except for the OVP so the indy replaced the OVP. I will clean out the ICV and replace the idle control unit and see what will happen.

I will report back to let you know what I find. Hope someone with the similar problem will find this thread helpful in the future.

86560SEL, the fuel pump relay is right next to the OVP.

Thanks. Yeah, if you find anything else out let me know. Ironically my car has not stalled out again- when placed in gear, or even when stopping the past two times I have driven it last. I have other cars, so I only drive this one about two to three times per week. I am still using caution however at stop signs and traffic signals, as I come to a stop slowly, to be sure it does not have a chance to stall @ a stop. It has only did this twice, but it is frustrating. Seems like both times, it stalled when it was "upshifting" back into 1st gear- the idle goes up a little you know and when it goes back down, it seems to go down too far- then it stalls, but immediately starts back up and runs smoothly.

Sometimes with my idle- it will idle around 900 rpms when in park, but most of the time, about 700-750. When in drive- mostly 500-550 rpms, but sometimes about 700 (when it idles 1000 in park).

So far, it is not a big deal, but I am guessing it may only get worse.

Good luck to you! Keep me posted. Thanks again!

Latest update
 

Update

After the Indy replaced the OVP, I no longer have the stalling problem when put in gear D or R.

So I still had 2 problems –
1. High Idle (1000RPM) when gear in P or N. 700RPM when in D or R.
2. Engine stalls immediately after start. It starts fine after a few attempts.

Here was my quest.

I replaced the Idle Control Unit (ICU) with another used one I had laying around and it did not make a difference. Actually, it was even worse. The idle kept fluctuating up and down and then eventually stalled… many times. So I put back the original ICU.


So I soaked and cleaned the ICV pretty good. I also noticed clicking sound like something was lose inside the ICV when I shake it a little. Anyway, after a good cleaning, I reinstalled it and the high idle was gone. After driving around for a few miles, I noticed the high idle came back up and this time it was worse than before. Idle was 1500 in P and 900 in D or R. I guess I killed it.

I replaced the original ICV with a used one, and this time the idle stayed at 650RPM in P and 550-600RPM in D. So I guess I’ve solved the high idle problem. :D

I still have one last problem – Engine stalls immediately after start. Sometime it goes like this when I start the car. Right after it starts and release of the key, the RMP would go up to about 1500 right after start then drops right down to 100-200 RPM like it would just drop dead, then shoot back up 800 RPM then becomes stable at around 650RPM. The entire process takes about 3 seconds when idle becomes stable.

I ordered and installed a new ICU and did not really notice anything. Except that when it stalls immediately after start, the second try ALWAYS start her right up. Previously I may have to try a few times.

Do you have any idea with my last problem?
Thanks

There was a problem with this on 201 124 and 126 's..........
There's a Bulletin # DD07.3-90071. Engine Shakes At Idle.

This suggests checking continuity of socket 16 of CIS-e control unit (N3.) to connector X26 pin 10....this might apply to your situation..it's the gear selector recognition circuit.

Must also check frequency control is in factory spec's as correction by the ECU will cause hunting idle speeds.

.....I 'spose you checked all the simple stuff like plugs/wires/cap/rotor etc ?


.

yes, i checked those simple stuff.

I am going to do a search on the other stuff you've mentioned since I am not familiar with them..

Thanks.

Old af thread, I’ve got the exact same issue. I’ll be using the info posted here and chime back. ✌��

I haven't read the thread, only the title, but if you can get the engine started. Let it run while you go under the hood and try to systematically wiggle some of the wires....in particularly to the CPS and ignition/EZL system. I missed like 2 weeks of work trying to figure this same issue out on my w201. Car would run and then die randomly once put in gear. Sometimes I could drive it for miles, then it would shut off. Finally did what I'm telling you to do and found one electrical female connector was detached from the wire on the EZL system, but I didn't see it because it was covered by a black outer sheath and terminated into a single pin coupling that was connected to the other end of the plug. It was the thing circled in yellow. This is of course on the m103, but it may apply to you as well.