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  #1  
Old 01-12-2006, 02:48 PM
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Engine stalls when placed in gear (when engine warm) problem?

I mentioned this before, but I was thinking it was something else causing it. I was told before by someone that the fluid in the tranny may need changing, because it was "clunking" harshly into gear at the time, but now that I do not hold the brake when I shift out of park, it does not do that. I thought I had a trick to it, because when I would shift into "R" or "D" when the brake was not depressed, it would not stall out. Today, there were two occasions where that did not work. Actually one time today when I was leaving the dentist office, it did it and I re-started and finally got it to keep from stalling and pulled out to the road. Just before I got there, the engine stalled out again, even when in "D". It had never did this before. It idles at about 500 RPM when in gear when it is running. It does not do this when I first leave, when the engine is cold. Actually, it only seems to do it if the engine temperature is above 80*C, such as when I am in town driving and make a quick stop and back out before the engine cools below 80*C.

I do not think it is the idle, because if it were any higher, it would really bang into gear. Do you think it could really be the tranny fluid causing this? I checked it and it was full and seemed to be OK. The car does not run the smoothest when it is first started in the morning (if it is cold out), so I am thinking this all may be linked? Perhaps a vacuum leak somewhere? It does not sound like it anyway, but I guess a small leak could not be heard.

Well, I am off to the dealership to pick up my antenna seal and perhaps get a key made.

BTW- the car is a 380SE.

Thanks in advance.

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  #2  
Old 01-12-2006, 05:07 PM
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MB's of this era have electrically controlled idles. They should hold their idle rpm regardless of engine load or engine temp.

Sounds like some sort of electrical problem.
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  #3  
Old 01-12-2006, 06:47 PM
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Thanks.

Well that sounds wonderful. I guess I will call one of our local MB independent repair shops and see if they will check it out for me.
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  #4  
Old 01-12-2006, 09:51 PM
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86 560 slow idle?

Never heard of an idle control failure/problem on these resulting in a SLOW idle unless the ldle control valve was STUK closed. Remove it and clean it well with spray type carb/choke cleaner. You can test this first by unpluggin gthe electrical connection to the ilde control valve--then engine SHOULD speed up to about 1700 RPM.
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  #5  
Old 01-12-2006, 10:05 PM
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Thanks. Not sure if it (idle controls) are the same, but my car is a 1985 380SE. My user name was from years ago.

Also, my idle is actually not low, as far as I know, but it just stalls out when I
engage the gears.
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  #6  
Old 01-18-2006, 09:42 AM
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can't find valve....

(1990 560sel)
sorry to be a noob here, but i've seen pictures of the idle control valve itself during my search, but I haven't seen any pictures of where it is in the car (while installed). i ask this b/c i tried to use the cd manual to find it but am having no luck... can someone direct me where to look for it?

btw - thanks to those who posted the location of the computer, i was able to find that quickly
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  #7  
Old 01-18-2006, 03:29 PM
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thanks bri...
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  #8  
Old 01-18-2006, 04:53 PM
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Did you unplug the idle control valve to see what happens? The motor will slowly rev to around 1700 if its working. I agree with the tuneup strategy and make sure the timing is correct. How is the power otherwise? I know thats a dumb question for a 380, but can it at least outrun a Geo Metro? If its severely slow there may be other issues such as valves or rings.
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  #9  
Old 01-18-2006, 05:47 PM
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Thanks. The plugs were changed about 2 weeks ago- the problem remains. I have engaged the gears with the brake released and it does not stall as often then, *IF* the car is already going that direction - putting less strain on the engine when placed in gear. Such as if I head downhill and put it in drive, it will not stall, but if I am facing uphill, it will stall or visa-versa.

Not sure when the plug wires or distributor was replaced.

I may take it to the shop soon to see if a vac leak can be detected, because it is getting old having to park in a space where I will only have to shift once (into drive) instead of backing out, then forward again. Lessens the chance of stalling.



Quote:
Originally Posted by bribenz
;;;; 86560SEL ;;;; this sounds like it might be a vacuum problem ;; try to engage the gears from park without stepping on the brake , if it doesn't stall , you may have a small vacuum leak ,, the added need for brake boost vacuum may be enough too make it stall ;;; not that a leak is in the brake booster system , but a small leak may be somewhere else in the other parts of the vacuum systems , causing this stall as the idle goes below 500 rpm's ;; also when have the plugs , plug wires , cap , and rotor been replaced last ?
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  #10  
Old 01-18-2006, 05:48 PM
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If you are asking me about the power - it is adequate. It is as powerful as any other car I have owned, but it is not a rocket for sure. I have never taken it beyond 3K rpms, as I still have not had the need to. Anyway, @ this mileage and age, I try to drive the car easily.


Quote:
Originally Posted by raymr
Did you unplug the idle control valve to see what happens? The motor will slowly rev to around 1700 if its working. I agree with the tuneup strategy and make sure the timing is correct. How is the power otherwise? I know thats a dumb question for a 380, but can it at least outrun a Geo Metro? If its severely slow there may be other issues such as valves or rings.
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  #11  
Old 01-24-2006, 10:15 PM
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Stalled out once today at a stop. (Oh my!)

RAYMR : do you know exactly where this valve is located? I have of two different places. One person told me its at the back of the firewall and someone else said it was near the distributor. I also need to know how to remove.

My car has not stalled when engaged in gear lately, but this evening something different happened. I was driving about 45 mph on a 4-lane boulevard in town and had to make a sudden stop, as someone had stalled out a traffic signal. When I came to a stop, my engine stalled - right in the middle of the road. Luckily, it immediately started right back up and I went on my way. I also noticed today that sometimes when it is idling in gear, it will have a very sporadic and quick "stumble", like it wants to stall, but it does not.

You asked about power - its not a tire burner, but it will get along pretty well. You mentioned rings. It is not smoking or burning oil, so I guess they are OK. The car has 264K, which is a lot of miles, but from what I understand, this should not be the end of the road for a typical MB V8. ??

Thanks!
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  #12  
Old 02-02-2006, 05:59 PM
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Raymr- do I unplug it while the engine is already running, or before I start it? I would like to clean it, because I have heard this could be the problem, but I do not know how to remove it.


Quote:
Originally Posted by raymr
Did you unplug the idle control valve to see what happens? The motor will slowly rev to around 1700 if its working. I agree with the tuneup strategy and make sure the timing is correct. How is the power otherwise? I know thats a dumb question for a 380, but can it at least outrun a Geo Metro? If its severely slow there may be other issues such as valves or rings.
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  #13  
Old 02-03-2006, 09:46 AM
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I didnt have this problem on my 380. However the idle is a rough going battle on these cars and when perfect it WONT be for long.

Then you got the water leaks aswell....things just pile up and its like having a child in the end.

Hope you can get it worked out.
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  #14  
Old 02-03-2006, 01:38 PM
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Help

86560SEL - The ICV is located at the front of the engine. You unplug the ICV while the engine's running.

I am curious to know also, because I also have the exact same problem with my 91 420SEL stalling immediately when put in gear from P or N. The problem has only started recently in two different occasions. I thought it was weird at first when it happened. I restarted the car, put in gear and stalled again. The third time, it was fine and drove away.

I do not have the problem stalling while driving like others have experienced in many of the searched threads. Maybe this is the beginning of something worse waiting to happen to me??..

I checked the ICV by unplugging and the idle shot up to 1500RPM so I think the ICV is fine. I do not have the problem restarting. It starts right up after stalling.

I've spents the last couple days searching this site and other Mercedes forums of the related problem. I've read so many threads and this is the only one close to what I am experiencing.

Anybody else has any ideas why it stalls when put into gear from P or N?

THANKS
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  #15  
Old 02-03-2006, 08:34 PM
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Thanks NEWR for that info.

Mine also easily restarts when it stalls out when I place it in gear. Sometimes it will stall a couple of times before it finally goes. As mentioned, if I do not press the brakes when I shift, it is not as bad, IF I am already aimed in the direction I am going and it is facing slightly downhill.

Most recently, it has even stalled out when I make a spot at a stop sign, or traffic signal. This is frustrating, because as you know on these cars, you have to turn the ignition off, then back on to restart.

I have hesitated on checking it, because I can live with the stalling out when I shift from "R" or "D", but when it stalls on the road when I stop- that is a different story and in some cases - scary.

If I figure it out, I will post it here. If you do first, I would appreciate whatever you find out.

Good luck!

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