ip timing instructions240d - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

C.Doner · #1 02-20-2006, 02:12 PM

I'm looking for good instructions for checking and setting the Ip timing on a 1983 240d with a 616 912 engine 287k. the hanes manual shows a different model injection pump. It seems most of the DIY articles are for the 617 turbo or others.Does anyone has specifics for this engine or know the article links for it. Do I have to remove the delivery valve and spring? do I need the spline tool to remove them. It does not look like the injection pump I have in the picture. By the way I just replaced the timing chain ,guides, adjusted valve lash and replaced fuel filters and primer pump. it runs much better since the chain replacement , but it smokes heavily of diesel at idle . a fuel smelling blue white smoke. the engine runs strong and smooth on the highway. no obvious misfireing and no obvious smoke, but at idle it runs rough and smokes. I've noticed that when I loosen the no. 4 injector pipe at 800 rpm idle the smoking seems to lessen and not much change in engine function, but when i loosen no 4 injector at approx. 1000 rpm it makes a huge difference in engine function. It bogs down a lot. I havnt checked the compression I figured it was o-k since it runs so well on the highway and starts easily It likes to go 75 on the highway and burns little oil 1/4 quart on 500 miles. please help thank you. Chris

#2 02-20-2006, 03:45 PM

The IP timing procedure has been described here so many times that a quick search will probably produce more copies of it than you could read this afternoon. I just described for someone on here a few days ago.

Given your description, you really should do a compression or cylinder leakdown test and ascertain the engine condition first.

Good luck,

Stevo · #3 02-20-2006, 04:51 PM

Chris

If you need the splin tool to remove the delivery valve and spring then you proly have the Euro IP, which requires a little different treatment when re assembling. I would try this first... The timing may have been advanced to compensate for the chain some time ago. Mark where the IP meets the block and pull the IP AWAY (retard) from the engine just a skosh (1/64"+-). See if that helps. If not move it back. You may get lucky

C.Doner · #4 02-21-2006, 04:15 PM

I just got the readings and i am relieved. although they do differ somewhat they arent too low i think. How does 350 for #1 410 for #2 and 380 for #3 and #4 Is the 410 too high? maby carboned rings what about 350 somewhat low but acceptable. right? what about the difference between #1 and #2? well I'm ruling out compression as a problem for now. on to the IP and injectors. Oh yea I found a fuel leak back by the tank maby this is the problem or one of them. I suppose this could be a combo effect of multiple things. Maby someone has more details on the euro model IP or maby I'll take it in to an Indy. I was hoping to avoid the latter. I'll do a search and look for the spline tool in the rental program.

Stevo · #5 02-21-2006, 06:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by C.Doner

I just got the readings and i am relieved..

Maby someone has more details on the euro model IP or maby I'll take it in to an Indy..

Those are good readings, some folks would kill for them

I have never had the delivery valves out of my Euro. There was a post a while back where a guy ran into problems taking apart one of those

I'm sure the jobs doable its just "different" than the US car procedure. You need a good torque wrench.
Your fuel leak could have caused air to enter the system.

You could try that bumping the IP. The PO could have easly advanced the timing to compensate for a stretched chain.

C.Doner · #6 02-22-2006, 01:36 AM

thanks for the tips. as for removing the splines from the Ip i think i will wait until I find specific details on my model. I have a torque wrench, but I have no specs. Hopefully I'll get lucky with budgeing it a little back. I'll let you know how it works . I dont know when I am going to get to it. I have spent a lot of time on this car lately. Maby this weekend I'll dive into it. I really want this car to run well. I'm sure it will happen. Its a patience thing i guess.

C.Doner · #7 02-24-2006, 01:51 PM

I just found the torque specs for the delivery valve outlet. I am assumeing that the euro specs are the same as the ones in the hanes manual. If anyone has info on other specs please let me know. I have 30 - 39 ft lbs. thanks again for the help

C.Doner · #8 03-02-2006, 02:06 AM

I got it at least as close as i need for now The timing was retarded actually. I dont know why,but I moved the pump foreward ( advanced ) and it runs well no smoking. I'm waiting for the spline socket to get an exact reading.

Stevo · #9 03-02-2006, 10:52 AM

Good show....Keep us posted when you time that euro pump. It is surprising how far out the timing can be and the car will still preform reasonably well. A few weeks ago a friend found the timing on his 240 was set at 6 degrees not 24. The car was hard to start but ran good. I would'nt have thought it would run at all.

C.Doner · #10 03-06-2006, 01:06 PM

I actually think I got the timing pretty close. The engine really starts quick and runs smoothly. I'm still going to dial it in. It feels good finnally have this car running good. I am not sure I would have Baught it if I had known how much work it needed i at least would have talked the seller down more. It was a good learning experience. I've been wanting a diesel for a while. I would say I was sort of clueless about them until now. It really helped having a mechanic(non diesel) help with the timing chain.A local volvo shop let me use his space and tools for a fee. He helped on the most crushial parts of the timing chain job. The local mb indy wanted $1000 to do the job. I got it done for around $450 including the payment to my friend for shopspace and time. Hopefully now this engine will last a while longer. I just went through my first 1000 miles on the timing chain. it seems to be burning less oil. it is still full after that many miles. maby 1/4 quart gone. pretty good for 289k. Is there anything I should check over on the chain job. I think it is good to go. do i need to change the oil early or anything. I changed it after the job was done.
Chris
1983 240d
1979 volvo 242 gt (for sale)

Stevo · #11 03-06-2006, 05:14 PM

" do i need to change the oil early or anything. I changed it after the job was done."

No, I dont think so, you adjusted the valves, right? Then you should be good.

I would stay away from that MB indy, $1000 for a timing chain, holy crap

C.Doner · #12 03-09-2006, 05:04 PM

Just dove into the pump today. It is pretty straight foreward. The O- rings on the delivery are shot. I'm going to replace them with synthetic ones. Hopefully they will have them at the local hydraulic shop. they have Buna type rubber. This is ok i suppose. any one have info on this type rubber. I'll do a seartch for it today. as for that indy. he wanted $650 in labor. they would have replaced the chain the accesable rails and the tensioner.Not a super complicated job but i could see it taking 6.5 hours. it took me days.they charge $100/hr. That is the going rate in wine country for quality service. too much for me! At least I have a spare car so i can drive one while working on the other. bye

Stevo · #13 03-09-2006, 09:14 PM

Thanks for the update. I'm interested in how the "procedure" works out, I may have to dig into my euro IP some day. sounds like you saved a few bucks too.

C.Doner · #14 03-11-2006, 04:10 AM

Once you get the pump apart it seems to be the same as the U.S version,although i wouldnt know for sure. the delivery valve and spring look identical to the one in the hanes manual.there's a little steel piston looking thing with the valve inside and a washer and the spring on top, all sits in the area beneath the delivery tube.foir reassembley Just balance the spring on top of the steel piston with valve inserted and the copper washer centered on the steel piston , then place the delivery tube over the assembly and screw it back in.torque to 34-37 ftlbs. I didnt have any problems with leaks. The synthetic O rings were easy to find at the local hydraulic place. You will definitly want to replace those while you are in there. It is all easy as long as you have the spline socket. It is the same one used for the 603 engine as well as others. It is in the tool rental program. also the tabs have to go on in the same order as they were previously it dosnt fit otherwise. you will figure it out easily. there may be diagrams that are simular to this setup in the 603 manual,but I dont know. It is all self explanitory once everything is apart.it is easy to replace the rest of the delivery tube o-rings, as all you need to do is remove the tube slide off the o ring and replace. dont mess with the other valves and springs and it is a sinch going back together.

C.Doner · #15 03-19-2006, 08:45 PM

After searching through articles in this site. I have determined that this euro w616style ip is simular to the w603 style ip. you need to torque the delivery tube to 30 ftlbs back off then to 30 ftlbs again then to 35 ftlbs.I'LL have to go back and do it again. There was nothing about this in the hanes manual. I guess I may want a genuine book on this engine.If anyone has one for a euro 240d 1983 let me know. By the way do I need to replace those little copper washers that go around the delivery valve.