Hi all. I had just enough left in my year-old tube of MB sealant to complete an upper timing cover job. My question to you guys is --- this stuff is still VERY tacky after 24 hours (it's 35 degrees in the garage). How long should I wait before starting the car? I mean, it still has the consistancy as if I just sqeezed it out of the tube!

All old gasket material was cleaned pefectly, and scotchbrited. However, this is on a virgin headgasket motor, and I definitely am fighting the shrinking head gasket/U-shaped seal problem.

Oh yes. This is for my '95 E320. THANKS!!!

I'd say buy a fresh tube. Think of all the trouble of redoing it

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joel

Prayers bring forth enlightenment.

Hey Joel! Man, I've done this job four times in three weeks. I've got it down to a SCIENCE! Yes, the beating is cleaning up the old sealant. For sure. And I meant to say, I have two tubes on order. And it didn't make it here before the weekend. And, we've got to have the car operational monday...so I might be doing the job again next weekend...

A few tips for anyone -- and please follow at your own risk

1) I don't pull the cooling fan until after I remove the switchover valve and engine lift hook (two items bolted to the front upper cover). But, I remove the coolant crossover pipe too. Then, I remove the cooling fan. It's really easy to lock the cooling fan pulley (using a 1/4"? bent rod) with all these items out of the way.

I can pretty much have the front cover in my hand in 60 minutes.

2) The timing chain rail (with the guide pin) - it's easy to remove after the front cover is in your hand. I just use a 3/8" drive deep well socket (depending on how long your bolt is), a bolt that will thread inside the pin and a washer. Bolt/washer go through the ratchet end of the socket, the socket goes over the pin. Thread the bolt into the pin and tighten with a ratchet. The pin will slide out --- it's really quite long, and you may have the pull on the socket (with bolt going through) as you tighten the bolt.

If anyone is considering this job, it's really quite simple. You never need to pull the serpentine belt - thankfully. Just the valve cover. Simple stuff.

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I'd appreciate any more opinions on the sealant. Thanks again, Joel.

If you're talking about the "pinkish" colored stuff used to seal machined surfaces where no gasket is needed, it won't cure until it gets hot.

ILUVMILS, I'm talking about the stuff Phil sells here at Fastlane --- it's black in color. The part # is: 003-989-98-20-10 / A 003 989 98 20 10 /003989982010.

What is your experience using this stuff? It's been over 24 hours since I applied it - and I have a hair drier on the area now (28 degrees outside in Dallas). Thanks!

I don't recall the part# of the MB stuff but you've probably got the same thing. It "cures" about as quickly as the job can be finished. Can you imagine an automotive sealant that required an excessive amount of time to cure before the car could be used? By the way, if the stuff you've got is the same as MB sells, it works great.