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#1
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Vehicle description further down in signature.
Last spring I added a can of BG-44K to a near empty gas tank and refilled with 93 octane fuel. Car ran ok for about 1/2 a tank then starting intermittently missing on the road. I suspected the BG-44K was breaking things loose and clogging the injectors. A few tanks full later, the problem cleared itself up. I never believed this single can of BG-44K got the system cleaned up. A few nights ago I added a 16z. can of Berryman's B-12 Chemtool to a near empty tank, then refilled with 93 octane Shell. Car ran OK for the first 60 miles. I stopped off to run an errand on the way home last night. Started car 15 mins. later - there was heat soak of course and about 2-3 miles later, car started missing intermittently on the highway. This happened just a few times, then cleared up for the remaining 15 mi. journey home. Parked in driveway, ran a few errands, came back and started car. It died. Restarted OK and got it in the garage. Shut it off, then tried to restart without success - engine just cranked rapidly. I let it cool off for 5-10 min and got it to start, but the idle was erratic, bouncing up and down, then finally stalling. After a 2 hr. cool off, the car started w/o stalling and idle was fairly stable, though certainly not smooth. This morning I started the car and it idled up to around 1000-1200 rpm like it always does and eventually settled down to around 600-700 rpm. Last year when I used the BG-44K, I experienced most of my problems with a WARM motor as I did last night. I'm fairly convinced that both the 44K and B-12 caused this problem as no other work had/has been done and the car was running failry well before hand in both cases prior to adding the snake oil to the gas tank. I'll likely have to run a couple of tanks of fuel through before this clears up and once that's happened, I'll go ahead and change fuel filter and any tank screens that may be installed. I promised myself last night that I am finally once and for all DONE with fuel system products and will eventually pull the injectors and have them professionally cleaned. I have had little success with garages in my area that supposedly specialize in an sort of MB work. Could anyone point me at a repair facility that I could ship my injectors to for professional cleaning?. I believe it's going to take a measure this serious to reinstate the correct spray pattern/pressure. Thanks for your time.
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Mike Murrell 1991 300-SEL - Model 126 M103 - SOHC "Fräulein" |
#2
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Mike,
I don't get it, what was the problem with the car in the first place? If the current difficulties were caused by the additive and DO clear up in a few tanks, how do you know the injectors need to be cleaned? At the very least, why not do a spray test before sending them off? That will at least confirm that is a problem. cheers, dan r. |
#3
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Dan:
Last year I performed what some would call an ign. system maint. tune-up. Plugs, wires, dist. cap; rotor(all OEM) were replaced. Before and after this service, the car exhibited a slightly rough idle when cold. This was a new situation at the time - car had always idled smoothly when both cold and hot, except for a total melt down that was repaired with a new MAS(FPR went south) and intermittent stalling that was solved with a new OVP. I went ahead and did the "throw parts" approach simply because I had owned the car for 8 yrs. and knew the ign. system stuff could probably use a refreshing. Cold, semi-rough idle continued after the ign. system work, so I took the snake oil approach with the 44K. Was lured in by all of the "miracle claims". The 44k did not resolve the semi-rough, cold idle problem, so I thought I'd give it another go, only this time using the Berryman's simply because I had a new can of it laying around and it was MUCH less costly than the over-priced 44K. Your point is quite valid...why not test spray pattern and I'll do that a tank or two down the road. For now, I'm trying to line up repair facilities that do CIS/FI cleaning(and do it WELL) in the event their service is needed. Thanks for your reply.
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Mike Murrell 1991 300-SEL - Model 126 M103 - SOHC "Fräulein" |
#4
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Hi Mike,
Fair enough. I did some reading and found this article interesting. It is from somebody with a product to sell, so consider the source... http://www.chevron.com/products/prodserv/nafl/auto/content/fueladd.shtm What kind of gas are you using? I have had very bad experiences with low grade gas (EDIT: particularly in the wintertime),I don't mean octane levels, and now I only purchase this stuff... http://www.toptiergas.com/deposit_control.html These guys seem to have a service like the sort you want. No affiliation, but a 100% ebay rating over 500 sales is tough to get-so they must be doing something right? This is the flow bench they use: http://www.niehoff.com/whatsnew/whatsnew1.html Let us know how things go if you send the injectors off! They apparently give you a before and after flow sheet. cheers, dan r. |
#5
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Dan:
Thanks for the injector information. I'm for the most part, a Chevron-kinda-guy, but do use Shell maybe every 3rd or 4th tank - 93 octane in both cases. I ran across an article on the WEB one night maybe a yr. ago that was written by a Mobil engineer. I may have seen it here - don't remember? In it, he said to switch brands of gas periodically as different brands contain different cleaning agents and that over time, the same fuel wouldn't necessarily have the same affect as another as far as cleaning goes. I bought into it simply because he wasn't trying to slam Mobil down everyone's throat and his theory sounded plausible. It's likely going to be awhile before I ship of the injectors. I've got about 400 mi. of driving to do before I kill the current tank of gas and will likely run another tank or two through it before I start looking at spray patterns. I'll update this thread if I end up pulling/shipping them for legitimate cleaning.
__________________
Mike Murrell 1991 300-SEL - Model 126 M103 - SOHC "Fräulein" |
#6
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Quote:
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joel Prayers bring forth enlightenment. |
#7
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just my 2 cents-replace the injectors. they do wear and any cleaning will expose how worn they are. 100k is about the life of any kjet injector, unless they've been cleaned with the pump tester every 30k. then you might get 150k but the exspense to get there was more than replacing injectors. good luck, chuck.
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#8
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Ikchris, I think you have it. My symptoms fit slightly-leaky injectors perfectly.
- When cold, the leaky injectors have had time to deplete pressure, and also some fuel evaporates from the cylinders over that long period. And you need extra fuel anyway, so it fires right up like normal. - on a short stop when warm, they don't have timne to leak down, so it's not noticeable. - But when they sit a couple hours or more, that's the killer. Makes sense. Any way to do an easy leakdown check of the system, to at least see if we're on the right track? Course it could be leaking back from the fuel distributor also. On GM car's a leakdown is simple, don't know so much about these CIS systems. Hmm, wonder if you vould let it sit the proper time, nick the engine over without starting it, and pull plugs to look for wet electrodes? DG |
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