1985 380se

[Rune]

Hi...

I'm thinking about buying a 1985 380se, and I am having trouble finding specs on the internet for this vehicle.

Cosmetically, the car looks in good shape. The interior looks impeccable, and the exterior has only a few minor imperfections. This is a car I'm planning on putting some effort into with fixing up and modernizing. I'm not scared of a project, especially considering the low asking price on this car.

I'm getting ready to call the seller to set up a test drive, and I would like to go into it knowing what to expect. I was wondering if anyone here owns one of these, or if someone could point me in the direction of a good resource for specs. Any help with this would be greatly appretiated.

[Gary Ganaway]

I have an 85 380SE. I like having a shorter wheelbase model vs 420 and 560SEL. Let me know what specs you are looking for and I will reply. This year is the double chain model which is good and the 3.8 engine is adequate in power although not as quick as 420 or 560 but on the road it cruises just as well...solid and quiet. I had to have upper control arms replaced as I was getting crunch sound when turning wheel going into driveway. Need to check oaut all front end suspension/steering componets..torn boots, etc. Also like the fact that it uses regular gas !.It is pretty easy to do many DIY repairs liek shocks, brakes, fuel filter, pump, accumulator, plugs wires, etc.

Mine had 94,000 miles when I purchased it and previous owners kept repairs and maintenance up to date but there will be things to do, I'm sure, so budget accordingly. Mine had not been driven very much in the last 7-8 years so many aaitems just needed perked up like cleaning window switches, seat switches. The crusie control probablyu will not work due to faulty cruise amplifier but this is typical.

gganaway@cinci.rr.com

[Gary Ganaway]

Ok, I have my owners manual so here are a few specs:

155 net bhp@4750 rpm, 8.3 compression ratio
automatic 4 speed transmission
tires are 205/70R 14
length is 202.6 inches, wheelbase is 115.6 inches
cis fuel injection
front track is 60.8 inches rear track is 59.7 inches
believe it weighs about 3700 lbs
8.5 quarts oil capacity
87 min octane

IF the car looks as you say then I would still have an independent shop check it out so you may find some of those "little" things that need attention which can run into a few dollars even doing the work yourself.

When I got mine I changed all fluids,filters, hoses, belts to have a good baseline to go from in the future. Then after about a month I had to replace the ignition control module. The gas gauge also was errractic but a good dose of Chevron Techron fixed that. I also put on new engine mounts, shocks, and rear sway bar links.

Also good sign if the owner has all previous work documented

How many miles on the car?
Although no comparison I like driving this 380 better than my E420...it jsut has more "character" plus that classic benz look.

[raymr]

Check the front seats and make sure the springs haven't collapsed with age and use. Sit in them for a while and make sure they are comfortable. Mine were akin to sitting on plywood balanced on a marshmallow. If they are bad, you may have to replace the seat frames, or do the budget-minded pool noodle trick. I firmed mine up with pool noodles, and I am satisfied with them now. The process is described pretty well here if you do a search. Other problem area is water seepage around the rear window. Check for rust/water damage in the trunk. Its overall a nice car and fairly DIY-friendly.

[Hatterasguy]

Yeah if there is no record of when the guides, tensoner, and chain were done last plan on doing them soon. Other then that good cars, swb W126's are fun to drive. Do a search for basic W126 info, their is enough in the archives to keep you reading for days.

[86560SEL]

I also have a 1985 380SE (must have been a lot of these cars made ). I have 265K on mine now. Overall- my car is still in very good condition. My car has the MB-Tex, which holds up well, mine is still like new, but the dash is cracked (now has cover) which is a common problem, especially on southern cars. As mentioned- check the springs on the seats, as they are prone to collaspe, unless the primary owner was light weight- like mine was, or at least that helps.

Like Hat said, make sure that the chains, guides and rails are not due for changing. Mine - I have no idea when they were last changed, so I am driving on borrowed time in mine. I have been told (by some) that if no rattling from the chain area, then no big cause for concern, but what do I know? I know that the rails can break, lodging in the chain and no noise there until it is too late. No more than I paid for the car, I am not worried about it. I will drive it until it stops. I had a price of $550. quoted for the chain/tensioner replacement, but the addition of rails/guides nearly doubles that. I would not mind even that, but my car has some sort of a low RPM knocking (between 1600-1900 rpms upon acceleration) that concerns me. It has not gotten any worse, but I do not want to sink $$$$ into this car because of this. I am thinking my cam may be worn on one side. The last 50K of my car was from the 2nd owner, which I think did not maintain the car very well. One plus is that I still do not have any oil/tranny leaks - also suprising. Transmission still is good too. Shifts like it should.

Sounds like you already know all of the trouble spots about these cars (rust on the northern models, electrical issues, water leaks, etc). Mine has suprised me- I have no electrical issues and luckily, a southern car, so no rust concerns. Even the original radio works like new and the original speakers sound new too (knock on wood). Another common trouble spot seems to be the idle. Some people claim rough idle. Mine did this back in the winter when it was cold. HVAC controls can also be a problem on some models.

Its funny, but I have saw high mileage models without problems and some low mileage models with problems. Basically all in how they were cared for.

Another plus, like Gary said, these cars are pretty easy to work on. I have changed the oils on a lot of cars, but this one has to be the easiest to do. No call in not changing the oil regularly, which is why I am livid that the PO of my car did not change it often.

Another interesting know about the "specs" is that driverside airbag was optional on these cars in 1984-85, but standard on the 500SEL for 1985.

Good luck and enjoy.

[gmercoleza]

Originally Posted by Gary Ganaway

Ok, I have my owners manual so here are a few specs:

155 net bhp@4750 rpm, 8.3 compression ratio
automatic 4 speed transmission
tires are 205/70R 14
length is 202.6 inches, wheelbase is 115.6 inches
cis fuel injection
front track is 60.8 inches rear track is 59.7 inches
believe it weighs about 3700 lbs
8.5 quarts oil capacity
87 min octane

IF the car looks as you say then I would still have an independent shop check it out so you may find some of those "little" things that need attention which can run into a few dollars even doing the work yourself.

When I got mine I changed all fluids,filters, hoses, belts to have a good baseline to go from in the future. Then after about a month I had to replace the ignition control module. The gas gauge also was errractic but a good dose of Chevron Techron fixed that. I also put on new engine mounts, shocks, and rear sway bar links.

Also good sign if the owner has all previous work documented

How many miles on the car?
Although no comparison I like driving this 380 better than my E420...it jsut has more "character" plus that classic benz look.

I just read this now. I'm picking up an 85 380SE from a fellow forum member tonight. Are you telling me thet M103 in my 300E has 22 more horsepower? What is the torque on the 380SE and how does it compare to the M103? I always thought the M103 was a near-perfect engine, this may just confirm it for me.

[hookedon210s]

Yes, the M103 engine had more horsepower (177 @ 5700 rpm) than the M116 380 (155 @ 4750 rpm) but less torque (188 ft/lbs @ 4400) vs. 196 ft/lbs @ 2750 rpm. The differences may seem trivial but believe me they are significant. The US 380 V8 is tuned for low end torque (accomplished by the installation of camshafts with less valve overlap and duration than the Euro engine) and by MB standards a low redline (5300 rpm compared to 6450 rpm for the 103 engine). It accelerates briskly off the line and consequently performs quite well in US driving and gets respectable gas mileage if not better mileage than the 103 powered 126 bodied cars. Of course, the trade off is that it runs out of breath at higher speeds. I own a 1983 Euro 380 SE that is rated to develop 204 hp @ 5250 rpm and 225 ft/lbs torque at 3250 and redlines at 5950 rpm. Obviously, this engine is tuned for for more horsepower which is better suited to the high speed driving found in Germany. Consequently, although torque is ultimately higher on the Euro engine, it is developed at a higher rpm. The 103 engine is much the same. Due to its smaller displacement it must be tuned for more horsepower which means higher rpms and less low end torque. The lower displacement also means lower ultimate torque. Both the Euro 380 and 103 engines feel sluggish off the line and don't really "come on cam" until 3500 rpm. Having driven 126 bodied cars with each version of the 380 engine and the 103 engine I prefer the US tuned 380 engine for US driving. An even better combination would have been the 104 engine in the 126 body but according to my spec. book MB never did that. As is often the case, raw statistics rarely tell the entire story. Mark

[86560SEL]

My 85' 380SE is no powerhouse, but it has adequate power. I personally think that 155hp is not enough for a 3700 lb.+ automobile, but then I have never had to take my car beyond 3200 rpms.

There must have been MANY 1985' 380SE 's manufactured. I see a lot of posts about people "buying" them - more than most any other model.

Strange.