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#1
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Oops, repair shop seems to have cut a line??
Hi Forum,
I had a new hood and hinges put on my ’91 350SDL and when I got it back from the body shop, I noticed it shifted hard. Thanks to the forum here, I was able to determine it was a vacuum problem and not an expensive transmission problem! I traced the leak to this spot and I tapped up the hose here on the left to stop the air leak from the hose on the right that I am holding, to make the tranny shift smoothly again for the short term fix, but want to get it right. I seem to have found the culprit, a vacuum hose to nowhere, right around where they were working to install the new hood hinges - said they had to remove the fron left fender to do it. I have no decent reference material to see where it should go. I have included a picture of it in case someone knows off hand where I should start digging. Since my climate controls don’t switch from defrost, I am looking at this as the likely connection, but where should this hose enter the car? Where should I open up the car and where should I connect this tube? What will I have to remove? Argh!!! It is black with a white pin stripe. See picture Thanks all!
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Providence, RI Current Fleet: 1991 MB 350 SDL running 2 tank Frybrid Waste Vegetable Oil 2005 Toyota Prius 1997 40' Bluebird Wanderlodge motorhome running running world's first 3 tank Frybrid Waste Vegetable Oil |
#2
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There is a tank under the fender to supply vac to the climate control, and the hose should be attached to it.
Check for a panel under the fender behind the wheel that covers the opening for the tank, and re-attach the hose. Should be a hard plastic line there anyway, connecting up by the brake booster, so check for that, too. Should NOT be a long run of rubber hose, MB uses hard plastic lines for that, but they will be brittle by now and may have busted when the work was done. Peter
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1972 220D ?? miles 1988 300E 200,012 1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles 1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000 1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs! |
#3
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Thanks Peter, this is great.
Do I get to this area from under the car, inside the hood or somehow inside the wheel well? Will I have to remove the fender to get to this? Thanks again! SA
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Providence, RI Current Fleet: 1991 MB 350 SDL running 2 tank Frybrid Waste Vegetable Oil 2005 Toyota Prius 1997 40' Bluebird Wanderlodge motorhome running running world's first 3 tank Frybrid Waste Vegetable Oil |
#4
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if you
have both ends that go together, you can slip on a piece of shrink wrap (that is not the right term) but you get this special plastic tube and slip it over the tube you want to splice and heat it gently while watching. it will shrink as long as you hold heat to it. made for electrical splices for insulation but will do a nice temp job while you get the right part. prob have at any partrs house or radio shack.
tom w
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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC] ..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis. |
#5
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Quote:
If you have to make a special trip to the parts house for heat shrink tubing, you might as well just stop at any auto parts store and purchase some proper vacuum line. The 4mm OE line works the best, but, the standard 3/16" line will work in a pinch. |
#6
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I'll have to check on my brother's SDL, but typically there is an access panel inside the wheel well on the back side. Several screws and the panel comes out. May not be true on the W126, I'll look.
Peter
__________________
1972 220D ?? miles 1988 300E 200,012 1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles 1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000 1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs! |
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