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#1
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I am stuck !!!! 140 dash removal. 1996 s320
Okay so here goes. I found out my evaporater is leaking. Took out the blower motor and nice trail of dye from the housing back into the evaporater. The car only has 29,000 miles on it and after much research this is very common for the 140 chasis.
My problem is I am having problems getting the center console wood out and I am not going to break it. Secondly under the speaker covers on the dash are screws that I need to access. The trim covering the speaker I believe the A frame trim I cannot figure out how to get it off. Again I do not break things to figure out how they work. As you know MB is to expensive to go that route. Can anyone help me figure this out with some pics. Also the bottom of the dash there is suppose to be something latch to remove the bottom cloth portion. I cannot figure out how this works either. HELP!!! |
#2
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http://www.mbca.org/northtexas/
Try to contact Brian Heitman at this site - his emailid is there. In a previous post at this forum, he mentioned a video related to your project. It's no longer at the North Texas site; perhaps he can point you to it somehow.
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Mike Murrell 1991 300-SEL - Model 126 M103 - SOHC "Fräulein" |
#3
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Taking the dash out of a W140 to get to the evaporator is no small task. It may be the most labor intensive job you can do on this car. You're just starting to find some of the tricks/catches to taking some of this apart.
You're right, you don't want to break things... they are expensive and frustrating to repair/replace. First thing you need to do is get access to a good service manual (like the MB/WIS) or pay the small amount of dollars to get a one year subscription to ALLDATA.COM. This section on W140's is pretty good and the subsection of removing the entire dash is very complete with drawings. After a few years at it, I'm getting pretty accomplished at working on my W140, but wouldn't dream of taking the dash out without a guide.
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KenP 1996 S500 W140 Coupe |
#4
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I can only help, maybe , on the console. I just bought a '97 S320.
Here are the first steps for removing the wood console. 1) Remove the ashtray insert. Slide the plastic lock to the right. 2) Remove the small screw that attaches the front wood to the ashtray. 3) Now there should be some very tricky screws facing backwards toward the rear. 4) Carefully pry up the plastic piece that surrounds the shifter area. 5) Remove the radio. You need the special radio tools that go in the slots on the front of the radio. They are cheap. 6) The wood piece attaches to a plastic clip at the rear of the console. I didn't have to remove the console wood. So that's all I know. You are a brave soul. Good Luck! Steve |
#5
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Thanks for the help. Here is what I have done so far. Removed air bag driver and all the vents on the dash found the bolts holding it down removed both radio and climate control also sunglass holder and trim for directional vent flow. Back part of the console bolts 4 plastic trim cover, shift boot. And left bottom part of dash cloth.
Now where I am stuck: The bottom part of the dash. I have all bolts out cannot figure out how the release works. All data shows screws but they are not screws any ideas??? And lastly the wood for center console. Can someone show me if it is a compression fitting or where does it snap into place?? I am 10 minutes away from pulling the dash but can be a life away if not removed two sections. George |
#6
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I've replaced evaps on three 124's this year. And I recommend a set of plastic wedges like the ones in photo. They are invaluable for removing trim, gromments, window gaskets and anything else you don't want to ruin.
Maybe if you post a photo of what you are trying to remove someone will be able to look at it and figure out how it comes apart. |
#7
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92 to 95 the console and dash has two panels bolted together in the ashtray cavity (lateral torx bolts ashtray cover comes out), 96 and up have a one piece panel released from the console end and pivoted up, there are screws in the radio cavity (definately) and HVAC cavity (maybe), get radio hooks and code. The console trim ring comes off (friction fit)
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#8
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JMO but I think I would have tried one of the sealers that are out on the market to save you doing that job! Did some reading on them and they sounded very promising! Have some good testamonials! I think before I tore apart my car to try and fix a leak I would give this stuff a try! Not that expencive! And no I do not sell the stuff ! just passing on the info!
# "We have installed Super Seal Plus in over 20 A/C systems in various makes and models, including Mercedes Benz. Super Seal Plus has worked very well for us. It is a great product!" Smokie http://www.dugcosupply.com/supersealpro.htm
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95 E420 BigBlue 500E Sway bars 2001 C Class 16 in. Rims KYB Struts and shocks Rear spoiler American Stitches Wheel Bigred 99 F250 Powerstroke JVC EXAD Mp3 player JVC EXAD GPS Last edited by Smokiesman; 08-12-2006 at 09:22 PM. |
#9
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Well to all you 140 owners what a job to replace the evaporater. I can tell you that I am officialy done with this job.Took over 30 hours to complete and I would expect better engineering than this from MB. I called MB today to get an estimate on the price of this job and they stated about 3500-4,000. Wow and to put another evaporater in with only 29,000 miles. I do not want to do that job again. The only thing that I broke was the plastic pull for the glove box. Part of the mechanism. No wood cracked or mared I am quite pleased and ooh the best is that the air is ice cold!!! Now I can drive the car. Thank you for all your support and if someone could tell me how to reset the srs light it would be appreciated.
George |
#10
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I am impressed. I have seen the pictures of one with the dash removed.
Knock on wood, hope my '97 keeps on cooling. Steve |
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