Where is the Charcoal canister shut-off valve located on a 1999 C230
 

I'm trying to solve a CEL problem (code P0455) on my 1999 C230-Kompressor. I've already replaced the gas cap so I'm on to the next likely culprit, the "Charcoal canister shut-off valve" but it isn't where I thought it would be.

Does anyone know where to find it? I took some pictures of where I expected to find it. They're from the rear, passenger-side wheel well with the liner removed. Thanks,

Don

[QUOTE=DonB]I'm trying to solve a CEL problem (code P0455) on my 1999 C230-Kompressor. I've already replaced the gas cap so I'm on to the next likely culprit, the "Charcoal canister shut-off valve" but it isn't where I thought it would be.

Does anyone know where to find it? I took some pictures of where I expected to find it. They're from the rear, passenger-side wheel well with the liner removed. Thanks,

Don[/QUOTE
have you checked the regeneration valve? i have seen a few of them not cycle propery not allowing enough vacuum go to the tank and set that code.
on the 202 chassis the the canister shutoff valve is the white canister next to the charcoal canister, which on this model is down by the fuel pump and filter

Is it possible that a bad charcoal canister can create stalling?

Thanks Carson, I'll look for it this weekend. On your suggestion about the regeneration valve; is that the same as the Purge control valve? If so, then yes, I was considering it, but I was going by this post from Gilly:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/tech-help/106160-help-1997-e-420-p0455-evap-leak.html?highlight=p0455

Excerpt
"I'd say if you want to "throw a part" at the problem, with about 75% probability the shut-off valve is the problem."

I don't have the test tools he mentioned, so I was going to try his advice. What do you think?

Don

what you could do is remove the shutoff valve and supply voltage to it and blow in to the end or draw vacuum and see if it holds.

Wow, I'm beginning to think the car doesn't have a "Charcoal canister shut-off valve". I looked all over, but haven't found it. Here are pictures of the fuel pump and filter, but no valve that I can see. Where else should I look? Thanks,

Don

here is a picture, if it is there, it is further forward, the white unit the line is touching, you will need to remove the entire cover.

http://members.cox.net/mercedessd/mercedes001.jpg

Thanks Carson, I guess I'll have to look again. I got this drawing from the dealer. It looks similar to your picture. I'll take another look this weekend.
Thanks again,

Don

I also am getting the P0455 code, so I need to check the gas cap and the Charcoal canister shut-off valve. But where do I look for the regeneration valve/Purge Control Valve on a 2000 C230K? How is this checked?

My low fuel light flashers after I have taken my ten mile trip to work. And now my CEL is on with the P0455 code. I ordered a new fuel cap from Phill today. He suggested the regeneration valve; $63.00 would be next to check. He said he has sold some of these over the years. As for the Charcoal canister shut-off valve; $150.00 he has not sold any of these for the C230. So where is the regeneration valve and how do you check it?

Purge control valve (under hood as in the pic) make a "tick-tick" noise when it's working properly. Warm the car, stop, pop the hood and listen for the noise and feel the valve as well as it can be felt working. I replaced my own this spring to clear the code, worked like a charm. My mechanic said that the shut-off valve is RARELY at fault.

As for diagnosis, he was able to use the SDS to determine which compenent was faulty. I presume there is some sort of emissions adaptation values or other way, but I didn't get specific with him.

OK, somebody stole my shutoff valve! All the drawings say it should be there, but it's not. Maybe a there was model change? If I do have one, it must be somewhere else (see pictures). From all the comments, it sounds like I should try the other valve, so I'll let you know how it worked out. Thanks everyone for all the help.

Don

Starfinder is wrong on this one- the shutoff valve (and canister) is on the LR side- behind the fender liner. I've never seen one by the fuel pumps.

To help everyone- if the regeneration/purge valve is clicking after running a few minutes- pull the canister side hose off- the valve should be applying vacuum to the canister- if it is, it's probably OK. The shutoff valves are very common- easiest way to check is to plug it off and see if the system holds vacuum then- thats what the car does when it runs the test- actually you could get the car to run the test for you- must have between 1/4 and 3/4 a tank of fuel and let the car run an OBD2 drive cycle- if the code doesn't come back, the leak is gone.

OK, I've replaced the purge control valve and cleared the code. If the CEL is going to turn on, it will be a couple of days.

MBtech21 - Thanks, I was starting to think I was nuts! But to clairify, were is the "LR side"? Does that mean Left-Rear side? Is that the driver or passenger side? I assume it's on the rear. Thanks,

Don

LR is drivers rear- always from how you sit in the car :)

MBtech21 - Thanks, that's exactly where it was. I was looking on the passenger side.:o

Well, the purge valve did not solve the problem (CEL still comes on), so I've replaced the charcoal canister shutoff valve. By the way, on this model, it's in the drivers side rear wheel well, behind the liner (see pictures). I'll let you know if the CEL problem is solved in a week.

Don

PS - The MB parts guy said both of these valves are usually replaced at the same time.

It's been over a week now and no CEL, so replacing the fuel shutoff valve must have fixed it :). Thanks everyone for all the advise, it really helped!

Don

Possible fix on the cheap... blinking fuel light P0455
 

So I had the same problem and when I tried to source the part locally, it would have taken almost a week to get. I figured I would try a quick fix and it worked so you may have luck with this as well.

First test connector at canister shut-off valve for voltage with the key on. I don't know the exact range but mine was reading 7.9v. If no voltage problem is probably in wiring or computer. :mad:

I pulled canister shut-off valve and pulled the linear motor out. It's easy. Just CAREFULLY pry the 2 tabs outward (One is under the electrical plug. You have to remove the plastic cover and the foam filter sock.) and gently remove the solenoid. There will be a spring so don't loose it. Clean the solenoid cylinder with MAF spray and a pipe cleaner. Clean the rubber valve with MAF cleaner in the plastic housing. Use something to pull the plunger in the plastic housing outward and blow into the tube. As long as it seals only when you apply pressure and doesn't when you push in, that part should be good. Lube the cylinder in the solenoid with a small amount of silicon lube. Clean the foam filter sock with an air filter cleaner and reassemble.

Solenoid seems to be durable and is just prone to dirt build up because of design and placement. I would think this should probably be serviced every 50k miles to keep in top shape. Should take about 1hr or less to do and save you $200+.

Good luck :P