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  #1  
Old 08-11-2006, 12:52 PM
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Changing oil & filter

Hi everyone,

Is there anybody can tell me if it is economical to change your MBz oil & filter yourself? There's one article in the DIY forum that shows how to change the oil but it seems is not that easy. Dealer ususally asked for $200 - $300 per 12.000 miles interval.
So, what can of oil and where to get this kind of oil that last 12K miles and where to get the Topsider oil changer?
Will there be any oil change warning light reminder in the instrument cluster, if there's any how to reset it?
Thanks in advance for all inputs

Frank
1997 E420
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  #2  
Old 08-11-2006, 02:29 PM
Sportlines
 
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Location: Johnson City, TN
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Topsider, http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/SiteSearchView?catalogId=10001&Ntx=mode%2Bmatchallpartial&keyword=Topsider&Ntt=Topsider&N=0&y=0&x=0&storeId=10001&Ntk=All_2&ddkey=SiteSearch

Or just go to www.westmarine.com and type Topsider in keyword search.

Then you need the proper tool to remove the filter. I'm not sure which tool you need. Filters and the tool no doubt available on this website under Buy Parts.

Changing Oil and filter is very very easy. Either use regular oil or synthetic oil.
Change frequency is up to and your driving pattern.

How do you know when it's time to change again. I think you can figure out a way to remind yourself.

Is it economical? Dealer charges 200 to 300 bucks. I don't know where you live, buy my local dealer oil change is $47.00. So your cost would be what
8 qts at $2 = 16 + filter 7 = 23 bucks.

Steve
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  #3  
Old 08-11-2006, 03:27 PM
I told you so!
 
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If the oil filter tool is the same as for the 6-cyl engines, this is the tool:
Oil filter tool
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  #4  
Old 08-11-2006, 04:22 PM
126 Guy
 
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changing oil is a piece of cake. Just find the oil drain plug, let the oil out, and then find the filter and screw it off and put the new one on. Make sure everything is tight and pour new oil. Maybe that 2-3 hundred service you were quoted included other things like a tune up triee roation, etc... This is prob the easiest maintenence you can do by yourself.
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  #5  
Old 08-11-2006, 06:54 PM
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Thanks for the inputs. Yes they're quoting me $200 alternating to $300 which includes tire rotation and diagnostic check. The service rep was saying one oil change is good for 12.000 miles so I really want to know what brand/type of oil they're using.
To my understanding off the shelf synthetic is only between 5000-7000 miles only. Appreciate any inputs

Frank
97 E420 130K
96 Previa 185K
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  #6  
Old 08-11-2006, 07:08 PM
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I can't imagine running any kind of oil for 12,000 miles unless I were to buy a new car every 3-5 yrs.

I'm the type that will drive a vehicle about 15-20 yrs. before I sell it or give it to a related teenager. If you're such a person, a 12,000 regimen may not work.

The dealer wants to sell you a new car OFTEN. Enticing you with EXTENDED maint. schedules helps them to do this.

My wife bought an '06 Toyota Avalon recently. I went to the dealership at 3K to buy a new oil filter. The parts guy told me not to to change it 'til 5K. I find this "new thinking" interesting. A few years ago, they were all pushing 3K oil change intervals. Now Toyota is up to 5K. Toyota dealers in my area do not use synthetic oil. All use conventional 5W-30.

In reality, 5K may not be that bad, but I'm "old school" and it's hard to teach an old dog new tricks.

My 2 cents.
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  #7  
Old 08-11-2006, 08:26 PM
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Smile

They must be using a different oil, I remeber BMW does the same thing. That's why I wanted to know if we can get the oil they're using.
I always use the 3000 miles rule of thumb in changing oil and 5000 for synthetic and have no problem at all in my many previous Hondas and Toyotas. But considering the difficulties to reach the filter and the type of filter Mercedes is using I can understand if they decided to use some sort of oil that extend change intervals
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  #8  
Old 08-11-2006, 08:39 PM
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Sure you can go the the counter and buy it. They are a Mobil distributer and sell over the counter. I just bought 2 gallons of Delvac 1 today for $40. FYI they sell 0w40 for $5 a quart, which in my area is a very good price.
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  #9  
Old 08-11-2006, 10:48 PM
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If Fastlane is correct, me and you use the same filter. (I have a '94 E420).

All you need is a 13mm socket, and an extension or two; and the topsider.

Suck all the oil out, undo the bolt on the filter housing, pull of the cover, and pull the filter by its little handle. Swap O-rings (provided w/ filter) and put it all back together.
Yes, you could drain the oil via the plug, but then you would be spending alot of time under the car to remove the undercladding - save that for when you get curious and want to inpect everything hidden under there.

I use either 15W40 or 20W50 dino oil, so my input on that is moot.
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  #10  
Old 08-11-2006, 07:22 PM
Sportlines
 
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You see, because they know you don't know much about this subject, they are going to skin you alive.

As to the post saying how easy the oil change is by just finding and removing the drain plug, I would make this comment. It's pretty obvious from your question that this is new territory for you. You can't just remove the drain plug. You have to have a floor jack (trunk jack unsafe), you need a jack stand for safety, you need a metric socket set and a ratchet. You need a drain pan to catch the oil. Now after all of that you need to take the oil to an AutoZone type store and dump it in their recycler. Now to get it there you have to pour it in an empty gallon milk jug or similar container. Messy Messy. Starting to think twice about saving money changing oil?

The topsider makes all of this very easy. No crawling under the car. No drain pan. Easy to take to the recyler.

I know there are people who insist on draining using the drain plug, but the cars are designed for extraction with suction out of the oil tube. Why do it the hard way?

Here's what you should do. Find a local MB or Foreign car specialist. Tell them you want a Mann, Knecht, or MB filter. Let them tell you what oil to use and when to change it. Highest possible charge $50.00 with dino oil, not $200.00. Mobil 1 at a shop? Don't know maybe $7.00 per qt. x 8 or 9 qts in
V-8. So synthetic could be $75.00.

Another alternative is to buy your own filter, online or even at the Dealer, and take it to Jiffy Lube.

Also , I believe, MB recommends oil level mid-way between the min and max mark. Definitely true for the inline 6's. Not sure about the V-8's.

Recommended oils are in your owners manual.

Steve
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  #11  
Old 08-11-2006, 08:17 PM
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If you are in the US, I will guess with 90% certainty that they are using Mobil 1 0w40 in your car. 12k miles is pushing it, 5k-8k is a bit more conservative, or twice a year, whatever comes first.

$200 is insane. They charge $100-$125 to do it in my area.

Figure about $60 for oil and a filter, the rest is there labor.
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  #12  
Old 08-15-2006, 01:37 PM
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Question Resetting Oil Change Mileage Counter

How do I change the oil change mileage counter on the onboard computer after changing oil DIY? It has something to do with the key. Any instructions anywhere for 1999 ML-320? Thanks!
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Last edited by tt33; 08-15-2006 at 01:47 PM. Reason: Update
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  #13  
Old 08-15-2006, 01:58 PM
"99 SL500
 
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changing

Should be in your owners manual, and you can buy Mobil 1 at Wal-mart,by 5 quart cans for $24.00 Bucks
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  #14  
Old 08-15-2006, 06:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tt33 View Post
How do I change the oil change mileage counter on the onboard computer after changing oil DIY? It has something to do with the key. Any instructions anywhere for 1999 ML-320? Thanks!
Read this thread. That should do it.
Resetting FSS
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  #15  
Old 08-15-2006, 10:13 PM
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I recently switched my 1997 E320 to 0W-40 mobil 1 synthetic, excellent oil and I feel comfortable knowing that it reduces engine wear at cold start as well as extreme temperature protection. since it gets very cold here in the midwest during winter and summers are normally in 80-100 F range.
I'm highly against going more than 6000 miles between oil changes. I try to change mine at 4000 to 5000 the oil get's contaminated over time and loses its properties for engine protection.
I get 7 quarts of mobil1 0W-40 from walmart which costs me around $40. I haven't tried 10w-30 or 5w30 synthetic but i think those will do as well.
Then I jack the car up (engine warm) and put on jack stand, open oil filler cap, take off small belly pan, put oil change pan underneath($5 at wall mart, very handy), loosen oil drain, use something like a funnel to keep oil from splashing (a gallon milk container cut in half should do the job, trust me it does get messy if you dont use this), open drain fully and let oil drain into the pan. Then change oil filter. I get my oil filter from O'reily which has the Wix brand but you can get the oem Mann filter from part stores online. The oil filter tool can be found at autozone or advance auto parts for like 5 bucks and it hooks onto a ratchet. you should get a copper ring washer that comes with the filter which is the replacement for the drain plug washer.
Then I close drain plug and fill up with 7 quarts, or until the dip stick shows full.
One major advantage I see with doing this myself (not all what I'm about to say applies to dealership of course) is that I don't have to worry about a stupid "mechanic" who doesn't know his head from his ass taking out his daily frustration out on my car (especially here in Iowa where 9 out of 10 times you end up with a non trained mechanic who can't even open the hood, yes it's happened to me before and I felt bad pulling the car out of the shop right away so I just showed them HOW TO OPEN THE HOOD, or stripping the threads on my oil drain plug, yes that's happened to me too). When I do it I know everythings done right, I get a better idea of how everything looks condition wise, and I know that I'm using good quality oil, filter and labor.
A disadvantage would obviously be that you don't get the diagnostics test, or the tire rotation which you have to take care of some how. I do my own tire rotation and don't really worry about diagnostics check unless I notice something wrong.
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