Are the rear sway bar bushings changed similarly to the way the fronts are done? I'll likely be changing the rear sway bar links soon and figured that I ought to also do the bushings if they are reasonably easy to do.

Thanks.

Len
'99 E300TD 99,500 miles

Len

The rear sway bar rubber bushings are easier in that there are only two .... but are bit harder to get to unless you have the car on a lift. As with older series, it is easier to take the rear wheels off and ideally keep the car;s supension level so you don't get twisting of the sway bar.

The bushings are very inexpensive and do make a difference.

Haasman

__________________
'03 E320 Wagon-Sold
'95 E320 Wagon-Went to Ex
'93 190E 2.6-Wrecked
'91 300E-Went to Ex
'65 911 Coupe (#302580)

Thanks Haasman - AFAIK there are only two on the front too aren't there?

Len

Len,

There are only two bushings and two links up front. IS easy to replace cause the sway bar drops down and out when the bushing brackets are removed.

I've not done the rear bushing but they look to me to be more difficult. The ends of the ~5/8" sway bar aew pounded flat to more than 1" width so do not see it being easy to remove existing or to install new bushings. It also wont come off the car without a lot more work so must be done from below. The rear links ARE easier than the fronts as they are bolt on rather than one end being pressed on.

__________________
Terry Allison
N. Calif. & Boca Chica, Panama

09' E320 Bluetec 77k (USA)
09' Hyundai Santa Fe Diesel 48k (S.A.)

Thanks Terry - you already gave me some pointers on the fronts. On the rears I'll likely order the bushings too since they are only a couple of bucks each and then see if it's worth the effort to replace them once I get into it.

Len

Have my rear sway bar bushings and links on hand now. Can the job on the rear be done with the car on the ground, i.e. must I support anything when I remove the old and install the new like I have to on the fronts?

Len
'99 E300TD 99,500 miles

What difference to handling would this change make?

I'm guessing that after 100,000 miles and eight years, it's time for most or all of the suspension rubber to be replaced. I suspect that the new parts would tighten up the rear end and I would think that is a desirable characteristic.

Len

Len - The rear sway bar links will have some amount of tension on them as did the fronts, although the rear sway bar is so light in comparission that I remember just grabbing it and pulling it down into position when I reconnected mine.

Note that I only did the rear links, not the bushings.

You'll want the car on jack stands and the wheel off to have better access.

Let us know how "fun" the bushing part of the job is.

__________________
Terry Allison
N. Calif. & Boca Chica, Panama

09' E320 Bluetec 77k (USA)
09' Hyundai Santa Fe Diesel 48k (S.A.)

The replacement of the front and rear sway bar bushings is something I have done with each used Mercedes that I have owned …. Something like 13 or 14 cars. Each time I was glad I have done it.

The results: Flatter cornering, a better control feel. Better resistance to cross winds and more firmly planted on winding roads.

Some models, of course are easier to perform this on than others. The 124 and 210 series are pretty easy to do.

Specific to your question, the rears are easiest to do when the rear wheels are off. (Best access) Ideally both wheels off so there is no twisting of the bar.

This is one of those jobs that you get a good feeling from doing. I may be a bit excessive here, but I will do them about every 50k miles or so.

Haasman

__________________
'03 E320 Wagon-Sold
'95 E320 Wagon-Went to Ex
'93 190E 2.6-Wrecked
'91 300E-Went to Ex
'65 911 Coupe (#302580)

Any chance you could post a descriptive procedure?

Just did the rear sway bar bushings and links today - very easy and straight forward. To answer Terry's concern above, the rear bushings are split, so that they don't have to be slid on from the end. In fact there is no reason that the bushings and links can't be done separately since one doesn't have to come off to do the other. You could probably do the job with both wheels on the ground, but it is easier to jack up the rear end and remove the wheels.

Here's how I did it. Jacked up the rear end at the differential and slid a jack stand under each of the jack pads. Thought I might need the jack to relieve any tension on the sway bar, but that was not necessary. Remove one wheel. Remove the two small screws holding the plastic covers over the rear axle and pop off the plastic cover. I removed the bushing bracket, took off the old bushing, installed the new bushing and tightened up the bracket. It takes a 6mm allen socket. The bracket bolts had Locktite on them, so I cleaned off the old and put fresh Locktite on. The bushing is flexible enough that you can just open it up and install it right where it goes. No need to slide it all the way up the sway bar.

Loosened both the top and bottom bolts holding the sway bar link on. Top is 16mm on one side and 19mm on the other side. This is the third time I've run across a 16mm nut/bolt on this car. Never ever saw one before I don't think. Bottom nut and bolt are 13mm. Once they were both loose, I just removed them both and pulled the old link out. Put the new link in place and bolted it in place. The new link comes with a new Locktite coated top bolt. Reinstalled the plastic cover and mounted the wheel.

Go to the other side and repeat.

I bought Mercedes parts from Caliber Motors. Links were part #124 320 02 89 and cost $10.25 each. Bushings are part #124 326 01 81 and cost $3.20 each.

Took the car for a ride tonight and in my mind I think it feels better, but that may just be wishful thinking. Old parts were not obviously worn or deformed. I also did the transmission mount today, so that might be part of it too.

Len

Glad it went well. I'll order the rear bushings the next time I order parts from Phil and do mine too.

__________________
Terry Allison
N. Calif. & Boca Chica, Panama

09' E320 Bluetec 77k (USA)
09' Hyundai Santa Fe Diesel 48k (S.A.)