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Mixing Dino Oil and Syn to Make Syn Blend, Good Idea?
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By spec, synthetics are supposed to be compatible with dino oils. That said, mixing to obtain a particular viscosity or just to save money is compromising the additive packages, and who knows what you'll get. Why not just use what is recommended by the manufacturer and change it at the recommended intervals. They have indeed done a lot of study on what oils to approve. Why try to second guess them? There are plenty on the list that do not cost an arm and a leg. Check out their listing at http://www.whnet.com/4x4/oil.html. Gerry Visel |
Has anybody tried the Quaker State SUV Semi Syntetic 15W40 ? It says for SUV's on it, but i figure it should work fine on any dino taking mercedes. Has anyone out there tested it out yet?
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I hear that you can't do that mixing thing with Royal Purple oil. That's because the "purple" thing is some special ingredients that doesn't mix with dino oil very well. RP is great stuff. |
Best Oil
CLEAR WINNER! Quaker State SUV Semi Syntetic 15W40
I have switched over to this oil, and oh boy what a difference it makes! My car hasn't ran this well and felt so powerful in a long time. It's great for Dino car's and gives the added Synthetic properties. I personally have had a great experiance using this oil in my C-Class and would recommend it to everyone. The only odd thing is the bottle saying its a blend for SUV's, but 15W40 is what I need. I only know one place in canada where they sell it: LORDCO $4.59/litre For the US, I don't know. |
If you are so pleased with semi-syn, just think of the possibilities of using a full syn - better cold starting, longer drain intervals, far better wear characteristics, etc.
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I can only chuckle when I hear someone talk about how "well and powerful" their car runs just from switching oil type... a true definition of the word "placebo".
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i mix them sometimes.
tom w |
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Go to http://www.whnet.com/4x4/oil.html for a complete list of MB approved oils for your car. (You can't go wrong following the manufacturer's recommendations!) The findings listed there may surprise you: "...some oils which are not recommended: Mobil 1 SuperSyn 0W-30 SL/SJ/CF A1/B1/A5 9.7 doesn't meet 229.1 nor ACEA A2 or A3 Mobil 1 SuperSyn 5W-30 SL/SJ/CF A1/B1/A5 9.8 doesn't meet 229.1 nor ACEA A2 or A3 Mobil 1 SuperSyn 10W-30 SL/SJ/CF A1/B1/A5 10.1 doesn't meet 229.1 nor ACEA A2 or A3 These 3 oils do not meet MB spec of > 3.5 cP for high temperature high shear strength." You will find very few xxW30 weight oils that are approved. Personally, I find 3000 mile changes to be a total waste of good oil, as the additives of today can easily go two or three times that and more. If you really want to know, start doing oil sampling and see real facts for yourself rather than taking someone's opinion. Gerry |
The Mobil website suggests either 5w30 or 10w30 for my Jeep, depending on what temperature I put on the chart.
I used 5w30 for the winter - considering the Jeep is never garaged and I usually only drive it to work in the harshest weather (ice cold temps less than 20F, snow etc). I have no leaks, and I am only about 0.5q low after 1200 miles. I'd never put 5w30 in if I didn't have faith in my engine for it to not burn it like gas, or blow it by every seal (since I maintain the vehicle quite well). For my Chrysler, the Mobil 1 site recommends 10w30 - and that's what I used in it. It's also what the manual calls for. If I try a 2007 Chrysler 300 Limited (same engine) it still says 10w30. Now, if you can tell me why 10w40 is better for either one than the oils I put in, I might change viscosities. But I will not put a dino oil in my engines! :) |
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