OK Folks,

I think I qualify for an expression a friend of mine used... "poster child for stupid". My hood release handle broke. I found one - for the surprising low price of $6! So now how to get in there - and this is my key - without breaking anything.

The good news is with the little bit of disassembly I have done already, I can see the end of the cable going to the hood. It has a cylindrical shaped piece of metal on the end that slides into a hole on the new hood release handle. The problem is the cable end is buried about 4-5 inches deep in the dash. I bought some long needle nose pliers, but the cable doesn't seem to come out far enough to hook it in the new handle.

So I think I need access to get above or below it. Then I can put the new handle in the slide that supports it and use pliers to insert that cylinder into the hole in the new handle.

One option... there is a small panel with the headlight switch in it above the release handle. Does the headlight switch knob just pull straight off? Then how would that panel come out... small tabs around the edge that should be pried out?

Second option... there is a lower dash panel that goes under the steering wheel. I have removed several bolts, but it still seems firmly attached, particularly near the center console. This may be just push in / pull out type pins, but I don't want to yank on it and break / bend something.

Any help would be appreciated on this.

Thanks,
Chuck

Hi Chuck,

See attached image.

Air grate (1)
push out with plastic wedge.
Screws (2 and 3)
screw out, hold cover down for access.
Screw (4)
screw out.
Screws (5, 6 and 7)
screw out (8 mm ).
Nut (8)
screw off (10 mm ).
Cover (9)
pull down and remove.
Reinstall
in opposite order.

It's been awhile since I took my lower cover off, but I could swear that the two screws referenced as items 2 and 3 above were actually a type of spring loaded clip that hooked / snapped onto two metal brackets mounted in the dash. I gently persuaded the carpeting away from the seam between the lower panel and dash using a clean putty knife so I could see in there. I think I used a flat blade screwdriver to disengage the clips. I could be wrong, like I said, it's been awhile and I don't have any pics. Maybe you could take some good digital pictures of this and send to me? I'd like to add them to my website (with your permission, and credit for the photos would go to you).

Pete

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__________________
1995 S600, 1 of 618 (sold)

"Speed is just a question of money...how fast you wanna go?"

LONG LIVE THE W140!
Visit my Web Page at www.v12uberalles.com

Pete,

Thanks a lot! I had found 1, 4,5,6, and 7. 2 & 3 were nowhere to see and # 8 I should have seen. I'll try to get at it this weekend.

What manual / source did you find this in? I think I'd tackle a lot more things on this car if I could get around all the trim pieces.

Chuck

This is from the ALLDATADIY subscription - the best $24.95 you ever spent on your 140.

__________________
Chuck Taylor
Falls Church VA
'66 200, '66 230SL, '96 SL500. Sold: '81 380SL, '86 300E, '72 250C, '95 C220, 3 '84 280SL's '90 420SEL, '72 280SE, '73 280C, '78 280SE, '70 280SL, '77 450SL, '85 380SL, '87 560SL, '85 380SL, '72 350SL, '96 S500 Coupe

ctaylor is correct. I have an Alldatadiy subscription. A lot of people seem to knock it, but I love it. For the money, it's the best thing available. And my suspicion is that the people that don't like it, don't really know how to search for what they need. If you're thinking of signing up, can I ask that you use this link? I get a small commission that helps me cover the costs of my humble website. Thanks.

http://www.myaffiliateprogram.com/u/alldata/b.asp?id=1900

__________________
1995 S600, 1 of 618 (sold)

"Speed is just a question of money...how fast you wanna go?"

LONG LIVE THE W140!
Visit my Web Page at www.v12uberalles.com

For most jobs, you get the book labor hours, which is very useful. You can use it to decide if you want to take a job on, and how long it will take you. And you will have some idea what you are getting into if you have a shop do the work.

This is stuff written for professionals, so it tends to be on the terse side.

IMO, better than the CD's.

__________________
Chuck Taylor
Falls Church VA
'66 200, '66 230SL, '96 SL500. Sold: '81 380SL, '86 300E, '72 250C, '95 C220, 3 '84 280SL's '90 420SEL, '72 280SE, '73 280C, '78 280SE, '70 280SL, '77 450SL, '85 380SL, '87 560SL, '85 380SL, '72 350SL, '96 S500 Coupe

Chuck,
As Pete says, older 140s like mine 92 had two hooks instead of screws 2 and 3. See picture of my dash removed for evaporator job. I marked the hooks with red arrows. I used a small screwdriver to undo them. I don't know how, but I was able to do it. Just take your time and don't brake anything!
Mike

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Folks,

I appreciate the help here. I'll have some time this weekend to dig in. The pictures and diagrams are great for me, I'm a visual person. I expect after I remove #8 I'll have a little more wiggle room to figure out 2 & 3.

Mike, if you remember - did you go after them from the seat side or pull the bottom of the panel down and come in from behind. Mone's a 93 so most likely to be similar to yours.

Chuck

I did it from the seat. I don't think you could do anything with this cover from the back.