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#1
03-23-2007, 05:42 PM
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1989 300 te blower motor question...simple...
I want to START to disassemble the heater motor system this weekend. Remove the blower and the other gizmo (regulator). Can I remove these items and still run the car? I would put back the wiper system, but leave out the blower and gizmo... That way I can test the units, remove the cages, and still use my car until a new fan, etc arrives. I don't have much free time, and cannot be without the car.
Any ideas? Are they both just plug-in units that run independently of the rest of the car? 1989 300te 
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#2
03-23-2007, 05:57 PM
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Pull the blower feed fuse b/c the pos side is always hot on blower system. Th switching is done on the ground side of the circuit, through the regulator.
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#3
03-23-2007, 06:06 PM
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Quote:
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#4
03-23-2007, 06:08 PM
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That's it
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#5
03-23-2007, 06:13 PM
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So, if I remove that metal strip...I am safe to go? I can then remove all the guts and still drive the car? This way I can bench test all the stuff, remove cages if necessary, and re-assemble next weekend. Will there be 'loose' ends / plugs, etc. that I will have to cover/ tape while the guts are out? Or is removing that fuse good enough?
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#6
03-23-2007, 06:19 PM
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You may want to label the wires ..I personnally would do the electrical testing in the car as everythin is hooked up .. reg test is trigger voltage from CC, blower is 12v at hot side and ground blu wire for reg by-pass to test blower
What is the blower problem??
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#7
03-23-2007, 07:32 PM
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The problem is...no fan! Worked one day, then next, zippo. Replaced the metal fuse...18 years old...did nothing. So, I figured I would start taking things apart. I am terrible with electrics, but have a friend with a shop who is good. Thought I would extract everything, bring it to him and play with it there. This way I can still use my car for work.
I understand testing the motor...just hook it to a 12v source, but I don't know how to test the regulator.
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#8
03-23-2007, 07:56 PM
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Which is why I test it in the car. The reg needs a variable voltage positive signal from the control panel between 3 and 7 volts [ approx.] at the yellow wire in order to trigger the regulators transistor ON . So, this is very easy to check in the car , whereas bench testing is going to require you to get a variable trigger voltage supply. ..and , the quick test for blower WITHOUT the regulator is to simply run a ground wire from the blu wire at the neg side of the blower and see if the blower goes into high speed . This electrically by-passes the regulator control circuit. A 12v test lamp at the red on the motor verifies fuse feed , positive, so by grounding the other side [neg/blu] , you now have 12v direct to blower. A good test here is to take an amp draw , but for a quicky , let it run for a few moments and feel that the motor case does not get hot. If it does , you have binding bearings or bad brushes. The amp reading would be best, but this works in the field when no meters are available. As you can see .these test are much easier in the car as the wiring circuits and controls are already there to get reading off and to jumper for diagnosis...but removal and bench testing will also accomplish the same , but you are then excluding control panel variable voltage verification. I just prefer the shortest route.
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