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#1
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Removing 124 rear hub assembly - MB Doc?
I'm trying to remove the rear hub assembly to replace the rear wheel bearing and I've got a couple issues:
1. How do you get the spring carrier screw out (on the bottom). I've removed the 21mm nut but that bolt doesn't want to move. Do I need to whack it with a hammer (a lot!?)? 2. Any ideas on how to remove the the right-most suspension link (see attached image). Do I need to remove the attachment on the frame in order to obtain the right angle to remove this from the hub? 3. With all of the suspension components (and that giant 30mm nut) removed how is the hub removed from the axle? There is a rubber boot that is connected to the hub (on the back side) - do I need to loosen the clamps on this rubber boot to remove the hub assembly? Thanks!!
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Daily Driver: 02 E430 4MATIC In the family: '03 E500 // '04 ML500 // 64 220SE Last edited by skiier3_9; 04-13-2007 at 09:44 AM. |
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First of ALL you need to have both sides of the rear axle at the same plane...
IF not then the anti-sway bar will put a lot of load on the control arms. Put jack stands under both lower control arms. 2) that is the toe-link & that end is like a tie rod end..either a special puller OR smacking the part of the hub where that goes in. 3) I always remove the axle first.
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MERCEDES Benz Master Guild Technician (6 TIMES) ASE Master Technician Mercedes Benz Star Technician (2 times) 44 years foreign automotive repair 27 Years M.B. Shop foreman (dealer) MB technical information Specialist (15 years) 190E 2.3 16V ITS SCCA race car (sold) 1986 190E 2.3 16V 2.5 (sold) Retired Moderator |
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With both sides of the rear axle in the same plane - am I going to push the splined axle (where the 21mm 12-point bolt was screwed on) into/through the hub (towards the differential) or pull the axle out of the hub?
This is certainly a tough DIY project - I really appreciate your help!
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Daily Driver: 02 E430 4MATIC In the family: '03 E500 // '04 ML500 // 64 220SE |
#4
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I disconnect the 6 star bolts & remove the axle.
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MERCEDES Benz Master Guild Technician (6 TIMES) ASE Master Technician Mercedes Benz Star Technician (2 times) 44 years foreign automotive repair 27 Years M.B. Shop foreman (dealer) MB technical information Specialist (15 years) 190E 2.3 16V ITS SCCA race car (sold) 1986 190E 2.3 16V 2.5 (sold) Retired Moderator |
#5
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I see - that's what billybob told me in a PM. Good thing I was planning on replacing my differential at the same time - I just purchased a set of the XZN sockets.
Thanks again!
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Daily Driver: 02 E430 4MATIC In the family: '03 E500 // '04 ML500 // 64 220SE |
#6
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Nothing is ever as easy as it seems...
I just want to make sure I understand things correctly - I have the axle bolts removed at the differential and I'm trying to push the axle through the wheel carrier, but its not going real well. First - this boot (see pic1) - it seems to be pretty well attached to the wheel carrier and axle (the two pieces I'm trying to separate) - will this just slide off with the axle? Second - With the axle disconnected should the shaft come down and out (at the diff.)? On this side of the car there is a support piece for the ABS/ASR wiring - tell me this doesn't have to come off. Or should it go up and to the front of the differential - allowing you to get the axle shaft out of the hub? (see pic2)
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Daily Driver: 02 E430 4MATIC In the family: '03 E500 // '04 ML500 // 64 220SE |
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from what i've seen in your pictures so far, this is going to be one hell of a job with the amount of rust you've got. the half shaft end that splines into the hub may be rusted in which case you're going to need some sort of extractor/puller to press the half shaft out of the hub. the half shaft should be pressed out of the hub towards the diff.
if you have the right tools, you can change the bearing without removing the entire hub carrier assembly from the car. if you don't, you'll still need special adapters etc. plus a hydraulic press to press the old bearing out and the new bearing in. i'd recommend getting some sort of manual before going any further and ensure that you'll have the necessary tools to complete the job. doing this job on jackstands without the proper tools plus the additional rust factor will be challenging indeed... |
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I certainly agree on the challenging factor - but surprisingly I haven't had too much trouble loosening the bolts. I've been using "Liquid Wrench" to clean/scrape all the rust off the outside of each bolt before I even attempt to loosen it.
I am hoping to get the axle shaft pressed out of the wheel carrier tomorrow - is there any danger in having an assistant tap on the splined axle end (where that 30mm 12 pointed nut was attached) with a hammer/punch while I pull the axle from under the car? I just received the bearing today - man this thing is a giant!
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Daily Driver: 02 E430 4MATIC In the family: '03 E500 // '04 ML500 // 64 220SE |
#9
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I wouldn't think of doing all that work. The axle needs to be removed but after that we used to use the slide hammer aproach shown in the picture. We did that until we bought the Klann KL 0330 with hydraulic ram also pictured.
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Steve Brotherton Continental Imports Gainesville FL Bosch Master, ASE Master, L1 33 years MB technician |
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Steve, do you have a larger version of that picture or just a little more description about your approach with the slide hammer. I've never used one before so correct me if I'm wrong here:
It appears that you put the hammer pole through the hole left by the axle and then you pull the weight towards you to loosen the hub assembly? That sounds like a much better approach than trying to get this entire wheel carrier off - I think I may have to see about getting a slide hammer. Thanks for the tips!
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Daily Driver: 02 E430 4MATIC In the family: '03 E500 // '04 ML500 // 64 220SE |
#11
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The picture gets real grainy any larger. If you use the slide hammer get a big one like body shops use. The hammer just bolts to the wheel lug holes.
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Steve Brotherton Continental Imports Gainesville FL Bosch Master, ASE Master, L1 33 years MB technician |
#12
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skiier,
as far as getting the half shaft separated from the hub, you can tap on the shaft and hit towards the diff, but be careful not to mushroom the end. i'd run the axle nut on the shaft until it's flush with the end before you start hammering; even then if the splines are really frozen, the hammering technique may not work. i've seen many where i had to use a puller/extractor just to separate the axle splines from the hub. consider the nut to be sacrificial and have a new one handy but do not mushroom the end of the half shaft itself or you'll be kicking yourself; (been there...) |
#13
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I got the entire wheel carrier off today and I'm going to take it and the new bearing to a machine shop tomorrow to have the new bearing pressed in.\
Thanks again for your help Steve, MB Doc, billybob, and ozawa!! I'll post some pics later of the assembly and the terrible rust that I was dealing with! Now I'm hoping to loosen the other axle and get the differential out as its also in need of replacement (a bit of whine on acceleration) and I've had a salvage take-off sitting in my garage for months. I've already unbolted the flex disc and this axle so...crossing my fingers...hopefully the last differential mounting bolts don't cause too much problem!
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Daily Driver: 02 E430 4MATIC In the family: '03 E500 // '04 ML500 // 64 220SE |
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Any tips on what to tell the machine shop?
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Daily Driver: 02 E430 4MATIC In the family: '03 E500 // '04 ML500 // 64 220SE |
#15
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a good machine shop shouldn't need instructions...if they do, take it somewhere else.
caveat; most places will not guarantee a job if the customer brings in their own parts. with this in mind, be sure you find someone who knows what they're doing for you don't want to have to do this all over again. i'd have a new hub handy just in case your old one turns out to be bad, which you won't know until they press off the outer inner bearing race. |
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