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  #1  
Old 05-16-2007, 02:42 PM
15289577
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Another 420 SEL timing chain/slide rail question

I have the parts to replace the chain, tensioner and the three upper guide rails. Does anyone know if the tensioner rail should be replaced at the same time? Does it pose a threat like the other three rails? I have it all taken apart and am ready to do the ones I have but I don't want to procede until I know for sure that the tension rail won't cause a problem. Anyone have any thoughts?

All three of the upper rails and the tension rail are the same dark red/brown color. I can post pictures later if anyone wants to see.

I can also take pictures of the process and make a DIY article if anyone wants that. None of the rails have actually broken as of yet.

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  #2  
Old 05-17-2007, 03:08 AM
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Join Date: May 2001
Location: Northern Va.
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I would recommend replacing the tensioner rail because you are there and it's easy to replace. See my posting:

Chain Guides Replaced

I took some pics and you may want to add to them or add you comments as well.

I suggest that you replace the rails first and check the offset, cam marks aligned and 'offset' noted on crank damper. If you do replace the timing chain, I recommend using a clamp on the drivers side sprocket as well. Get someone to help feed the chain in while you rotate the engine.
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Warren

Currently 1965 220Sb, 2002 FORD Crown Vic Police Interceptor

Had 1965 220SEb, 1967 230S, 280SE 4.5, 300SE (W126), 420SEL

ENTER > = (HP RPN)

Not part of the in-crowd since 1952.
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  #3  
Old 05-17-2007, 03:09 AM
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While your doing all that work, replace the oil tube clips as well. I used a rubber mallet to seat them into the cam towers. Don't hit them too hard.
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Regards

Warren

Currently 1965 220Sb, 2002 FORD Crown Vic Police Interceptor

Had 1965 220SEb, 1967 230S, 280SE 4.5, 300SE (W126), 420SEL

ENTER > = (HP RPN)

Not part of the in-crowd since 1952.
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  #4  
Old 05-17-2007, 09:02 AM
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Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: DFW / Collin County Texas
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Replace the tensioner rail too. It's not much additional effort since everything is apart already. The tip on replacing the plastic oiler tube fittings is also a good one. They only cost about $3 per set. I would also consider replacing your valve cover gaskets unless they are fairly new. Cheap insurance.
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  #5  
Old 05-17-2007, 11:59 PM
15289577
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I'll go ahead and order the part for the tensioner rail. Another problem that I've just run into though is this...

How the hell do I get the pins that hold the rails in place out? I made a homemade slide hammer using 6mm all thread that fits between the radiator and the pin and tried it out to no avail. They don't budge. Any thoughts?
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  #6  
Old 05-18-2007, 12:09 AM
15289577
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Wbain,

EXCELLENT PHOTOS. I like the bolt and washer arrangement with the socket. I was considering trying something using pipe, but a socket would work alot easier and would be stronger. I'll post a few photos later.
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  #7  
Old 05-18-2007, 10:34 AM
15289577
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I ordered the cover for the tensioner rail. Do I have to order the metal rail as well, or will the cover fit on the old one? The one I have is already the one for the two row chain so I'm assuming it will fit right...

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