My daughters 1988 190e temp gauge hit 120C and the aux fan didn't come on. After doing some research, it appears that there is no aux fan turn on for hi temps, only A/C cutoff at 130C???
isn't 130C a little above the red mark on my temp gauge? Why on earth would mercedes design a A/C cutoff switch that engages after the temp indicator hits 120C???
Curious and Confused in Cleveland.

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CCC,

That sensor is listed as a/c cut-off, but it is also the 105C high fan cut-in .. It is actually the thermistor that feeds the ac panel and that contains the switching temps interpretation.

Make sure you have that sw, b/c '88 models used two different types in that year [ it will be a blu/2 wire sensor]..if it is green, it is a mechanical type sensor and the test below does not apply.

Anyway, if it is the blu one, unplugging it will default the fan into high fan..
That is first High Fan circuit integrity test........

first High Fan circuit integrity test........ FAIL fan aux fan in front of condensor did not turn on. The fan will go on when the A/C hi-press sensor tells it to turn on,,, that I know,,, Wait,,,, I have both a blue and a green,,, along with a red. I unplugged the blue (as seen in the photo) is that the test???

disregard the unplugged red, as I just did that so you can see the red sensor,,,

Attached Thumbnails

 

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Okm
Next test is aux fan fuse ..
Next is bring 12v over to the big Resistor behind the left headlamp with a jumper wire from Battery. Jumper from bat + to the 2 wire terminal on the Resistor..[ looki for burnt wires here at same time]

Okm
Next test is aux fan fuse ..
Next is bring 12v over to the big Resistor behind the left headlamp with a jumper wire from Battery. Jumper from bat + to the 2 wire terminal on the Resistor..[ look for burnt wires here at same time]
Does that test get you high fan????????

Arthur shouldn't he jumper the connector for the blue switch to get the aux fan to kick in? Does it work like the red switch for the big fan? Just curious, is it a different type of switch?

No..........b/c it is not a switch..it is a Negetive Coeficient Thermister..which is just tech lingo for a resistor that changes value with temp change.
So, if the CC sees a high resistance value in this sensor , it does not trigger the fan circuit..but if it sees an OPEN circuit [ as in unplugged] , the CC defaults to FAN ON automatically. [ High temp protection in case of sensor/wiring fault] That is why we use the unplug sensor test to check the high fan circuit..we are simply putting the CC into DEFAULT funtion..simplest test there is for high fan circuit integrity..if that test fails , we start looking at fuses/relay/ resistor/etc..but we START right there w/that sensor....
If it were a regular temp sensor , [mechanical type sw ] you would then have to jumper it to turn on the fan.
This type circuit is just the opposite. It triggers a transistor in the CC at 285 ohms [ which eguates to 105C ] OR open circuit.

If it's a negative coefficient thermistor, then the resistance DROPS with higher temps. Unplugging it would increase the resistance to infinity, so maybe i need a 100 ohm resistor across the leads,,,

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Go ahead ..that will also trigger the CC ..but not needed with the default function.. The infinity reading of an unplugged sensor is an OPEN CIRCUIT..and an OPEN CIRCUIT is detected by the CC default circuitry.
If the fan does not come on w/default , you problem is fuse/relay , or wiring to the fan..

No dice,,,, when the two leads on the evaporator/drier are shorted, the aux fan turns on, when +12V is applied to the resistor, the fan turns on,,, BUT when the blue sensor in the picture is unplugged, nothing happens, when the blue sensor is shorted out, no aux fan,,, I did notice some clicking when the blue sensor was hooked up or disconnected or shorted,,, so something is happening

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