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#16
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As per the topic of plug wires, it is the resistor ends that fail, not necessarily the wires themselves. After I spent nearly $200 to have a new set of wires put on (owned the car a week and knew nothing about it), you can imagine how p.o.ed I was when another mechanic said I could have just pulled one wire at a time, found the bad end and replaced it for $7.
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#17
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wires
so,you can buy just the end for $7.00 ?
or you buy the whole new wire for $7.00 ? a couple of my "ends" (metal piece that goes on the plug) seem to be broken at the base where the wire goes in.? can they be taken apart there? thanks, mark |
#18
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car is dying in traffic.
ok,now the car is dying in traffic,I would say normally on decel,or when foot is off the gas.then the car starts right up.
any ideas? |
#19
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OK. If it's not the fuel, I'd suggest it might be the idle control module. I had much the same problem with my '84 380SE, and the idle control module was the problem. Car would die at the most inconvenient times, but then start right up again. Mechanic didn't know what the problem was, but, thankfully, I started her off one day and the engine RPMs were high. Bingo. Took her in, the module was replaced, and she runs just fine now. I'd make sure to eliminate all other obvious causes first, though.
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#20
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I was refering to just the resistor portion of the wire that connects with the spark plug.
I checked in the parts shop section of this site and found this part number 000 156 59 10. Can anyone confirm that this is indeed the resistor portion of the plug wire that fails? barndoor, I own the same car as you and have been down that same rough idle road. I replaced the plug wires and the rough idle was gone. Later, I had a problem with the idle running high on occasion. I resoldered the connectors on the Idle Speed Control Module and that problem has never come back. My car starts, idles and runs silky smooth now. [Edited by Q on 06-27-2001 at 11:40 PM] |
#21
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These models can be a bear to make idle smoothly. I'm a 30 year veteran MB tech and my own 380 SEC has quirks that I've learned to live with. It sounds to me like you may have a vacuum leak which can come from numerous items. Squeezing off all the connections to the intake one at a time with a pair of needle nose pliers may find your problem, but the plenum seals as well as the intake gaskets could be trouble also. Spraying carb cleaner on the suspected areas could show-up the leaks. Water poured over a vacuum leak will also be a good tool to detect trouble. If you isolate the weak cylinder to a single cylinder try swapping a fuel line from an adjacent cylinder. If the problem moves to the other cylinder then the problem is with the fuel distributor.
Good Luck |
#22
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Quote:
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#23
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I spent $8600 trying to fix a rouch idle in my 300E 1987....and I'll admit many other things (sunroof, AC, Alt, Brakes, tires, rims, basically entire d&*m car)
When the tach jumps up and down, then its probably related to the fuel system (I've had the problem too) I couldn't tell what it was for the last 2 years and neither could any of the MB mechanics. In my case, the rough idle was most pronounced in D and R, but 50% reduced in P or N. I noticed the motor mounts were basically flat last week and had ASC in Arlington VA replace them. Car has never run better. All the engine vibration I felt at idle (when stopped) went away. Car purrs like a fat cat!!! Its awesome.... Good luck, Eli PS: excuse my html code below, i'm trying to convert to VB...
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| Eli Collier | Personal Page | eli_collier@yahoo.com | | Cars: 93 300E 180K Smoke Silver on Tan | |
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