Looking for a replacement for my 240D, and have been smitten by the C 230's. Looking for input from those in the know. I'm focusing the search on a 99 or 2000 because of the manual climate control, and the Kompressor interests me. I do my own maintenance, have an awesome tool collection, and have found more info here to maintain the diesel that I could ever imagine. My questions:

1) is the Kompressor that big of deal? More power, but would a 98 NA be underpowered? (remember my DD is a 240D).

2) Any usual rust spots to look for?

3) Is the computerized climate control that big of problem?

I've searched for Kompressor, C230 and W202 and know the "lifetime" transmission fluid issues, but what else should I look out for? Thanks, Chuck!

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2000 C230 Kompressor "Frosty"

2007 PT Cruiser
2001 VW TDI Beetle
1999 Landrover Discovery II
1971 Corvette

Gone: 97 Cabrio, 83 240D, 93 VW Eurovan, 95 Volvo 850, 93 Chevy Astro Van, 77 VW Bus, 99 VW Jetta, 74 VW Bus

I have a 1997 C230 that I used as a work car from 1999 to 2006 really racking up the miles. Great little car. Personally, if I had it to do over again, I'd do the M112 V6 over the M111 inline four. The V6 will give smoother power and almost the same fuel mileage around town. (The M111 will far exceed in highway mileage, though). I love that the M111 pulls hard torque wise and gives great mileage, but to be honest it's kind of agrarian (read rough) compared to a six.

The W202 is a world class chassis but not without its problems. To me it's a blend of the old and new Mercedes eras. Both electrical and mechanical issues will crop up: water pump, belt tensioner, climate control oil (coolant) leak, AC compressor, engine cooling electronics, valve cover oil leak, paint that chips if you look at it funny, MAS, transmission valve body (which most likely will crap out even with regular fluid changes), wiper transmission, and the list goes on. Just because it's the baby Benz of that era does not mean it's without costly or laborious issues. It will be nearly as expensive to run as its contemporary E or S class brothers.

Great car, though. Handles well. Very safe and solid. Pretty roomy inside. Good outward visibility. Awesome brakes. Pretty DIY friendly. Reminds me of a 240D with twice the torque and three times the HP.

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Michael

1988 300 SL (5 Speed)
1994 E320 Wagon
1997 C230

The 1997 is the best of the W202 C230's.
Less complicated & MORE reliable than the 1998 & later ones!

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MERCEDES Benz Master Guild Technician (6 TIMES)
ASE Master Technician
Mercedes Benz Star Technician (2 times)
44 years foreign automotive repair
27 Years M.B. Shop foreman (dealer)
MB technical information Specialist (15 years)
190E 2.3 16V ITS SCCA race car (sold)
1986 190E 2.3 16V 2.5 (sold)
Retired Moderator

approx. 26mpg city, 30 on the highway, at 75mph for me (m111). As far as costly repairs, I purchsed mine 7 years old with 61k miles, used-certified (then Starmark). I complained about every slight potential issue, and probably had $6k in warranty repairs done to mine (squeaky wheels gets the oil ya know). Mostly, I complained proactively, hinting toward certain issues and parts, and all my engine seals were redone, front suspension bits replaced, all trans electronics done. That said, the car never was troublesome, there were just minor issues I looked out for because of the advice from this forum! Those seals (incl head gasket) that were replaced? All because of a dime-sized drop on the driveway one week. AC was acting odd at times, fan somewhat intermittently running slower than it should when cranking down the temp, so I got a new climate ctrl brain. Was it cooling perfectly? Yes. The trans electronics werent even needed, though I DID get updated parts, which is good. MB spent over $1000 on those parts, when all it needed was a screw reattached in the linkage (this for erratic and harsh shifting). So, you can spend a lot to make it perfect, or spend a little, especially if a DIYer, and have a great car. Mine is the most reliable and dependable car ever owned, including 2 Hondas. It just runs. 100k in 3.5 years, never left me stranded. In fact, the only failure-repair I have done in the last 60k miles is a water pump. Get a 4-cyl, spend $5-$7k. Preferably, one with over 100k miles AND/OR extensive service history, things like bushings being replaced, oil changes every 5k or less, transmission service, gaskets, etc - since a low-mile decade-old car with original, dry-rotted rubber is what you DONT want.

Well, have to agree with that last comment. Last 202 without the CAN bus, and despite what you hear about the first year of the 722.6 trans, mine is still grabbing strong at 160k miles. I think the m111 is very easy on it; not as much torque to eat away at it, but that said, the motor, to me, is not at all rough as Kerley says. In fact, my decade-old motor mounts still seem to be doing the isolation job very well

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former: 83 300D, 97 C230, 93 400E

current: 08 C300 Luxury , 92 500SL

It is my UNscientific observation that there have been more problems posted on this site for the 97 W202's than for the 98's and more for the 98's than for the 99's. The only CAN trouble I have had is one window regulator motor that died mysteriously. But I got one from a junk yard so that wasn't so bad in the end. There have also been a couple of bad solder joints to fix. And the one-arm-wonder-wiper has always been giving me some trouble. And the cat rattled apart and the center link wore out..... And of course the radio knob doesn't work right and the AC display gets funny sometimes. But still pretty good for a car you can buy for 7000.00.

Mike

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1998 C230 330,000 miles (currently dead of second failed EIS, yours will fail too, turning you into the dealer's personal human cash machine)
1988 F150 144,000 miles (leaks all the colors of the rainbow)
Previous stars: 1981 Brava 210,000 miles, 1978 128 150,000 miles, 1977 B200 Van 175,000 miles, 1972 Vega (great, if rusty, car), 1972 Celica, 1986.5 Supra

I found a 2000 C230 locally and am going to pick it up Sunday to drive it for a day or so the check it out. I'm sure I'll be back with questions. Thanks folks, Chuck

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2000 C230 Kompressor "Frosty"

2007 PT Cruiser
2001 VW TDI Beetle
1999 Landrover Discovery II
1971 Corvette

Gone: 97 Cabrio, 83 240D, 93 VW Eurovan, 95 Volvo 850, 93 Chevy Astro Van, 77 VW Bus, 99 VW Jetta, 74 VW Bus

>>2) Any usual rust spots to look for?<<

I have been noticing more posts about the rusting spring perch issues with the 202s. If you live in an area where cars are prone to rust, you might want to check this out.

The V6 is smoother than a kompressor'd 4, especially during the intial 2 minute warm up cycle at the first start of the day but the 4 is easier to work on and more fun/peppy to drive.

I can’t speak to the compressor engine, but the normally aspirated M111 gave me about 26 MPG in town and 36 MPG (sometimes more) on the highway. Really incredible fuel economy considering it’s such a strong engine. Driving it all those years I would go around thinking it was super smooth and what could be better. Every time, though, when I got behind the wheel of our M104 six cylinder car, I was amazed at how smooth the six felt in comparison. Always the reverse feeling going the opposite way, too. I like the six cylinder motors for everything except the decreased fuel economy. I don’t drive it much any more (my wife uses it about every other day, though), but, when I do hop in, the C230 always puts a smile on my face. Considering its plush ride, the C230 is quite nimble. It’s great both in the city and on the highway. I think of it as an economy car with long, athletic legs.

Personally, if I were shopping for a late nineties Mercedes sedan, it would be the W210 E class over the W202 C class. The E is much more car for almost the same money.


The perch springs area on our C class is fine (no rust). I do have rust in a couple other places, though. Several of the more serious rock chips on the hood developed surface rust before I got touch up paint on them. Also, in between the rear bumper and the body (just below where the trunk lid meets the body).

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Michael

1988 300 SL (5 Speed)
1994 E320 Wagon
1997 C230

Bump

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#dieselFLEET
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'97 E300
'99 E300

To all, I am new at this so bare with me. I just a C230 Kompressor 2000. Only 55k miles on it. So far, I am impressed with the car. Never owned a Mercedes. A much improvement over the Volvo that I just got rid of. The question that I have is, At this time what should I look for? Any special services that I may want to do? Things that you may consider for me to pay close attention too? Any sugestions would me apreciated.

Your car should have the FSS system, which breaks apart all services into "A" or "B" services. The system allows up to 12 months or 12,000 miles between oil changes depending on your driving style, but most of that believe that is lunacy. I feel comfortable breaking the interval in half for oil changes.

The only other things that you should pay attention to are the two services that are done in time intervals, not mileage intervals:

- brake fluid is to be replaced every two years.

- radiator fluid to be replaced every three years.

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Paul S.

2001 E430, Bourdeaux Red, Oyster interior.
79,200 miles.

1973 280SE 4.5, 170,000 miles. 568 Signal Red, Black MB Tex. "The Red Baron".

I had a 97 that I bought in 99 with 19000 miles and Starmark warranty never had any problems with anything, I put 240,000 miles on it, and would still have it but I was rear ended last year and the frame bent. The best car I have ever owned

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'05 Ford Escape 100,000 miles
'87 560SL 92000 miles
'89 300TE 199,000 miles
'02 Audi TT 100,000 miles
'00 Ford Excursion V-10 121000 miles
'92 Mercury Capri 100000 miles
'02 BMW 325XI 60000 miles
'92 230CE 160000
'87 BMW 535SI 160,000 miles
'93 Rinker Captiva 209
5 Kids
2 Dogs
1 Wife

Thanks for the info. I do have another question, if I may ask. How about the trans? Any service here? Fluid changes? I did noticed a drain plug in the trans oil pan. Thanks again.
Mike V

I could be wrong, but I think 1997 is the first year of the 722.6 five speed transmission, with fluid that is "filled for life".

There are owners that fall into one of two camps:

- those that believe this and never change the fluid.

- those that don't and change it at regular intervals.

Before the "filled for life" fluid came around, Mercedes used to recommend transmission fluid changes at 30,000 mile intervals, but the old fluid wasn't synthetic.

The new stuff is synthetic, and I change mine every 50,000 miles or so.

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Paul S.

2001 E430, Bourdeaux Red, Oyster interior.
79,200 miles.

1973 280SE 4.5, 170,000 miles. 568 Signal Red, Black MB Tex. "The Red Baron".

Paul,
Thanks again!. I was told that I had to replace it imediately. It was going to cost me $350.00. I feel that having only 55000k it would not be needed but again this is my first MB.
Again Thanks

Mike V