2000 W210 wagon - cranks, but no start when hot - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Blaine · #1 09-05-2007, 08:54 AM

Recently I've noticed that my 2000 E320 wagon has taken a few extra cranks before it starts. Then the other day when it was about ~85 F, after driving for 15 minutes, stopping for 30 minutes, and trying to start it would crank but not start. It took about ten full cranking cycles until it finally started.

No other problems once it has started, does not hesitate, started again once home.

I've read many of the threads related to this issue and have narrowed it down to:

Fuel Filter?
Fuel Pump?
Mass Airflow Sensor?
Bad key?

Car has 100k and service is up to date except I need to put in fresh plugs.

Even though there were no faults displayed on the center console, maybe the ODBII could hold some clues?

david s poole · #2 09-05-2007, 09:52 AM

probably crank sensor it's about right age.

Blaine · #3 09-05-2007, 10:37 AM

What would be a good way to confirm the CPS is at fault?

Also, looks like only a $100 part so I might just replace it and see.

Could somebody point our where it is located on the wagon?

ILUVMILS · #4 09-05-2007, 12:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Blaine

What would be a good way to confirm the CPS is at fault?

Check the resistance of the CKP sensor with an ohmmeter while warming it with a heat gun. It'll probably go open.

Blaine · #5 09-05-2007, 12:38 PM

I just picked up a new crank position sensor and fuel filter and I'll see if that does the trick.

Any tips on how to depressureize the fuel system before I replace the filter?

Blaine · #6 09-15-2007, 03:12 PM

So far so good with the new CPS.

Here are some links with info that helped me.

Crankshaft Position Sensor DIY

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w210-e-class/1219451-installation-cps-sensor-pictures.html?highlight=sensor

I used a 1/4" E8 torx socket with a short extension. A stubby would work well too.

Be sure and pinch the plastic clip at the end of the cable to release the clip before you pull the plug out of the sensor housing. It comes out easily.

All I had to do was to remove the plastic engine cover - about a 15 minute job total.

SpaceCity E 430 · #7 09-16-2007, 12:51 AM

Blaine, I did both of the procedures you're doing this past week, plus installed a new MAF sensor on my 2000 E 430 as I had a low rpm stumble and no codes. I did the CPS first and saw no change in performance. The MAF sensor was my culprit.

For the fuel filter, I didn't experience any fuel under pressure spraying out when I took the first fuel line off, but you do need to be ready to attach each removed line (4 of them) directly to the new filter pretty quickly as fuel will drain out from them while they are off. It is a bit of a fire hazard so take precautions.

Good luck.

Blaine · #8 09-16-2007, 07:44 AM

Did you need any special tools to attach the fuel lines back to the filter? They look different from the filter on my 190E.

Thanks for your reply.

SpaceCity E 430 · #9 09-16-2007, 02:16 PM

Tools needed are:

10mm nut driver to remove panel that covers the pump and filter

Phillips screwdriver to remove clamp that secrures pump and filter

Side cutters to pop loose the factory hose clamps

Nut driver or screw driver to tighten new worm screw clamps

Large worn out bath towel you plan on throwing away to absorb fuel that drips

The original clamps will pop open by placing the side cutters on the bulge of the clamp and twisting and breaking it loose. Be careful not to cut the hose. Then you can pry the clamp open and pull it of the hose. Three of the lines have clamps, one just pushes on. The Mercedes dealership gave me three worm screw clamps for the new filter. It's a real simple job.

chiro · #10 08-12-2008, 09:27 PM

Lisle (brand name)sells two small hose clamps ($10 dollars for two) that I used to pinch off the fuel lines off before removing them. I really recommend this as it made the job much cleaner ..didn't lose any fuel. On the W210 there are four lines to remove and replace. The top rear one has no clamp and pulls off easily and is just for air. The bottom rear line goes to the engine (it loops forward as you can see ) and is charged with gas. The bottom forward line is from the pump to the filter ,also charged with fuel and the top forward facing line is a return line to the tank. I really recommend using pinch off clamps on all three lines it will make the job much easier. Also , I pulled the fuse for the pump (#6 under the seat) and ran the car to depressurize the pump and released the fuel cap and then replaced it. I disconnected the battery to guard agianst electrical sparks. Use a flashlight not a halogen or trouble light ..they get too hot. An easy job if you pinch off the lines ...a dirty and dangerous job if you don't. If original clamps on replace them with fuel line hose clamps about 50 cents each ..get them before starting the job.

cudaspaz · #11 08-13-2008, 05:09 PM

Spin over no start on the 112-113 engines will most likely always be the crankshaft position sensor, and very rarely the camshaft position sensor.

If the car actually dies while driving from a faulty crankshaft pos sensor then it will set a code, but if it just spins over and won't start, it won't set a code.

I carry them in my truck like candy and usually get breakdown calls from grocery stores late at night.

If you wait about 20-30 minutes it will ususally fire off fine again, but it will keep happening at random usually after the car is warm and sits for a short time after a quick jaunt or a fill up at a gas station, but will usually fire right up after it cools for a half hour.

Note to those of you with the 98-up v-6, v-8 motors, you should buy one and keep it in your glove box for a rainy day.

They are located at the rear of the engine, drivers side on the transmission bellhousing and are held in by a single female torx socket or "E" socket and they have one electrical connector going to them.