Quote:
Originally Posted by emerydc8
I went back and re-read your Menu #24 and picked up your comment about the ETA making a mechanical noise when testing it. Then I remembered that there was normally a high-pitch humming noise coming from it when I would turn the key on without starting the engine. I guess that's the motor resetting itself.
|
During my recent saga w/ the
ETA, it reset when reading the EA module (pin 7). Based on that, I was mostly prepared to replace the
ETA.
When the NSW (S16/3) was replaced, the 'sounds' returned . .
Quote:
Originally Posted by emerydc8
I turned the key off and on about five or six times and every time I turned the key on, the buzzing would continue until I disturbed the wire that went into the ETA. Then I went to the link on your site where the guy shows how he rewired his ETA, because Mercedes used that same great wire they used on the engine wiring harnesses. http://v12uberalles.com/throttle_actuator_rewire.htm I realize now that the problem is probably bad insulation in the wiring--at least the wiring going into the ETA, and probably inside the ETA as well. |
Don't wiggle that cable too much while hot . . you could end up blowing a module . . . Pete's DIY article is a 'treatise' on fixing the
ETA!
Quote:
Originally Posted by emerydc8
The problem first appeared after I unscrewed the canon plug and, if I had to guess, I would say the wiring is broken between the canon plug and the point where the wiring mount bracket bolts into the manifold with an Allen bolt (second picture)
|
As Mike pointed out that's the MAF connector and that's, for me, is a good spot to check the engine wiring
harness; it only takes a few minutes to do this and if you haven't, you may want to do this.
After twisting the 'cap' loose, use an sharp knife (Xacto) and carefully cut the sheath being careful not to cut the wires inside. Once those wires are visible, you will know the 'state' of the wiring
harness. If those are bad, so is the rest of the wiring
harness . . . . independent of the
ETA wiring.
Quote:
Originally Posted by emerydc8
Rather than try to rebuild it myself, I was looking at the prices at the Jaytan link on your site and, of course, my ETA (000 141 78 25) would be among the most expensive ($799 minus $100 core). I think you mentioned that a new one wholesales at the dealer for $750. I'm thinking it would be better to get a new one.
|
That was a "very-special" price for yours truly! And is not available to me today. Probably looking at $1100 or so. . . just a wag!
Might be better to check out either Beckmann (more expensive) or Jaytan. If you take it off, they can test it provided you don't need that car.
On the other hand, Jaytan prices look attractive, so just getting a refurbed unit might be the easiest solution.
10-28-2007, 11:07 AM
Threaded Mode
