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#1
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Idle problem seems to be fixed!
I have been troubleshooting a bad idle, no idle high idle, and an abrupt, though intermittent dying problem at idle. On slow down for a turn or a stoplight or sign.
I changed the OPR and it fixed it for about twenty minutes. I noticed that when I would tap on the ICU when it was idling(high or low) that it would change (up or down) or die completely. ICU was suspect, but I could not rule out other things. I bought a recently rebuilt ICU on Ebay. I installed it this morning. VOILA! that seems to have worked. now starts and idles(first at about 1100, but drops back to about 900 (in park) almost instantly.) It now idles at about 600-700 in drive or reverse. Drove about 25 miles and it worked perfectly in all modes! WHEW! I really need it to idle right when I take it in to have the Smog test done. I feel really good about the car now, as I had the oil changed and they checked the spark plugs and all were firing right(they're new). All looked just like a good firing spark plug should look. Oil filter was TOAST! Can you spell falling apart! Car had had Castrol in it all it's life so I put that back in it (20-50) Am thinking about Synthetic after i get the little oil leaks (none underneath) fixed. Now to get the CCU fixed. I tried to re-solder connections but I think it was toast before I started(some traces burnt through, Nothing working but one motor(heater blower on low??? and crosstalking I'm sure)so I have to get another. Blower motor OK as it worked intermittently, either with AC or Heat. I also bought a good Heater/AC relay Before I put in the new ICU I took the old CCU out so as not to take a chance on a faulty CCU doing damage to the OPR or the ICU. One by one I'm getting through the small problems on this fine old car. I am a happy camper today!
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1986 Euro 500SEC "RUF" 9:1CR, "Rose" 1985 Euro 500SEC Cabriolet AMG Widebody 1982 Euro 500SEL "Blue" 2001 Texas Heeler (Aussie/Queensland X) "Sulphie", 2012 Queensland Red Heeler "Squeak" Best dogs I've ever had. |
#2
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Good news!
I found out I have a bosch air idle control valve. Same place but sits upright It was that alum cannister I suspected. Must have been a later addition as I still have the empty socket plug sitting there for the ICV Car now is almost perfect except the hard warm/hot start Still has a hi cold start idle but thats only when cold & in park It drives fine... Took it out yesterday first day after breaking & bypassig the TVV & it runs flawlessly cept when you have to restart it hot... OOOh well, Least its working fine Old machines sometimes a bit easier w less computer headaches... I have seen ICV for $200 They retail $800 or so I heard arrghhh You clean your old one out? That sometimes helps...
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~Shadow~ 83 500 SEC Euro 198K |
#3
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Yep I cleaned my ICV twice, once with carb cleaner and once with WD-40.
Look on Ebay for an ICV, haven't seen one like yours but I haven't been looking either, I know they have ICV's like mine on there. So Far so good with the parts I have puerchased off Ebay. One guy in in Sylmar, the others are out of state. Guy in Sylmar has good used parts.
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1986 Euro 500SEC "RUF" 9:1CR, "Rose" 1985 Euro 500SEC Cabriolet AMG Widebody 1982 Euro 500SEL "Blue" 2001 Texas Heeler (Aussie/Queensland X) "Sulphie", 2012 Queensland Red Heeler "Squeak" Best dogs I've ever had. |
#4
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Well, its good you solved yours
I think my ICV is fine I saw an old listing one like mine on ebay sold for $2.99 LOL My wierd idle is just on cold start up its high in park only I can live with that but wondering where it is steming from
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~Shadow~ 83 500 SEC Euro 198K |
#5
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Tap on the ICU smartly and see if the RPM changes, if so the ICU probably has problems. That is what mine boiled down to. Either there are Cold solder joints or there is another problem. I kept my old ICU as a "get home" repair if the good one takes a dump and I'm stranded. Same with the old OPR.
Happiness is a MB that'll start and idle like it is supposed to.
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1986 Euro 500SEC "RUF" 9:1CR, "Rose" 1985 Euro 500SEC Cabriolet AMG Widebody 1982 Euro 500SEL "Blue" 2001 Texas Heeler (Aussie/Queensland X) "Sulphie", 2012 Queensland Red Heeler "Squeak" Best dogs I've ever had. |
#6
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Quote:
My feeling is with those things esp if they respond to tapping that its an electrical connection in the unit I changed all of my ceramic fuses I got my old OVR too New one didn't seem to fix anything but those things are a sure bet to give some problem after 100K So a new one is insurance Mine definitely idles at lights better I changed alot of old vac hoses I cahnged the rotor & dis cap So any of that could & should have helped I;m also running a bottle of techron cleaner Yep happiness is a benz purring down the road...
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~Shadow~ 83 500 SEC Euro 198K Last edited by CamelotShadow; 10-18-2007 at 01:12 AM. |
#7
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85 500 sec
hey brothers i dont want to sound like a goof but can you descramble your texting of the parts your talking about, the reason is im having these problems myself and if i knew what the parts actually were ,i might be able to check them out, its tough getting old ,thanks in advance
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#8
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Quote:
ICV- idle control valve OVR overload protection relay TVV themo vacumm valve switch Yeah, our benzes are not getting older there getting classic Good Luck, Bro
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~Shadow~ 83 500 SEC Euro 198K |
#9
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Quote:
With this the idle should be high at cold then slow down to normal 500-650 RPM. Big problems arise when the aircon clicks in because that idle device is "static". the electronic devices speed the engine up as load increases. You have probably found the idle dropping really low as the car gets warm,you are in drive,air going at the lights and you want to make a turn...right?. Someone has fitted it because a fault in the electronic device has caused a high idle and they either didn't know how to rectify it or were being cheap. The heater type airslide such as have will work oK ,as long as remember that it is very limited in it's application. |
#10
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Quote:
It's a "Home Depot Gate Valve Special", requires no power connection (note the dangling power connector) and YOU can control the idle speed.
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1993 190E 2.3 2001 SLK230 1971 LS5 (454) Corvette Convertible |
#11
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ROFLMAO! Cold Milk thru the nose all over the keyboard! That is some fix albeit cheap.
__________________
1986 Euro 500SEC "RUF" 9:1CR, "Rose" 1985 Euro 500SEC Cabriolet AMG Widebody 1982 Euro 500SEL "Blue" 2001 Texas Heeler (Aussie/Queensland X) "Sulphie", 2012 Queensland Red Heeler "Squeak" Best dogs I've ever had. |
#12
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Quote:
Whatever floats your boat.
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1993 190E 2.3 2001 SLK230 1971 LS5 (454) Corvette Convertible |
#13
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Quote:
wonder who mickeyed with it like that It was owned by a Rich DR Well are there really poor ones..? Maybe the curbstoner? Haven't run the air yet but it idles fine in drive 650 700 ish What would it intail bringing it back to being right?
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~Shadow~ 83 500 SEC Euro 198K |
#14
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Would being a Euro cause it to have the airslide instead of the ICV? but you have an ICV connection in your wiring loom too. HMMM!
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1986 Euro 500SEC "RUF" 9:1CR, "Rose" 1985 Euro 500SEC Cabriolet AMG Widebody 1982 Euro 500SEL "Blue" 2001 Texas Heeler (Aussie/Queensland X) "Sulphie", 2012 Queensland Red Heeler "Squeak" Best dogs I've ever had. |
#15
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The gate valve is exactly how it works....except the factory set up uses engine heat to open or close it...
good ida that,except that as mentioned above you could find a proper one on ebay for $2,whereas hardware shop prices are around $10. Quote:
To convert back to stock you need to find both the airslide and a control module,if it's missing from the car. I see them on US ebay quite often. But be aware that you must get the correct parts for your car.right hand drive and left hand drive cars have entirely different parts. |
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