UnwiredTools Product Announcement:

The UTCIS-V replaces the Bosch Warm-Up Regulator in your Mercedes vehicle. If you have a difficult time starting your car hot or cold, then you may need a new Warm-Up Regulator. A replacement WUR may be very expensive or not available at all. A core-based rebuild would get you back on the road but all WURs wear out eventually and they're difficult to adjust and impossible to adjust precisely. The WUR controls your car's power and fuel economy. If you have to replace it anyway, why not upgrade it?

Finally, there's a modern digital control replacement/upgrade for Bosch CIS K-Jetronic fuel injection. The UTCIS-V replaces the WUR but it does much more. The UTCIS-V is made from precision machined aircraft aluminum which bolts into the stock location of the WUR. A digital controller measures the control pressure and the manifold air pressure and regulates the system. The control pressure isn't just set, it's regulated! Best of all, this digital controller can be programmed with engine control maps to fine tune your power and economy, just like "re-flashing" a new car. The UT Engine Management Software allows you to tune your engine with the click of a mouse. Engine control maps that you edit or create can be shared with others. The UTCIS gives you the benefits of programmable EFI at a tiny fraction of the cost.


You can order this product from Phil.


Frank
UnwiredTools, LLC.

I ordered it for my 1977 280SE. The car still starts OK cold, but kind of growls when hot. Also acceleration/power varies with engine temperature. I AM looking for anyone who has put in in themselves and used the software. The "V" warmup regulator model, with the vacuum hookup, is the one I have. Also, I bought a serial to USB adapter, so my Portable PC can work the software on the car.

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Guess "warm up regulator" must be a new name for some other part, as this phrase is NOT used in Mercedes manuals.

What are you talking about, that is?

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Kent Christensen
Albuquerque
'07 GL320CDI, '10 CL550. '01 Porsche Boxster
Two BMW motorcycles

http://handbook.w116.org/Engine%5C107%5CM117_45%5C073-125.pdf

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'90 300SE 298k
-300K and it gets put into retirement.
'80 300D 255k Purchased new by family in 1980.

Had a:
1973 220 (gas)
1980 300SD
1992 400E

These terms are referring to the same component in the Bosch CIS K-jetronic system. This same basic part is used in not only Mercedes applications but also Porsche, Ferrari, Audio, VW and others. For the sake of brevity, I'll call it simply WUR for this post.

Before I go any further, you should know I am part of UnwiredTools, the VENDOR who sells the digital Warm-Up Regulator Replacement/Upgrade product.


While the WUR, both OEM and the UTCIS, specifically address the function of control pressure management during the warm up cycle of the engine, it also influences the control pressure when the engine has warmed-up.

The lower the control pressure, the richer the fuel mixture. All other things being equal, more fuel will trend toward more power and lower economy. If you raise the control pressure, you lean out the mixture. Less fuel trends toward less power and better economy. The WUR is one of the "knobs and dials" we have to manipulate the economy/power characteristic of a given CIS K equipped engine.

The OEM WUR has diaphragms and bi-metallic metal strips internally for a mechanical interface to the control pressure setting. Mercedes (and other) applications also include a port for sensing Manifold Air Pressure for "full throttle enrichment". To make adjustments to the Control Pressure you require a hammer, a punch and a CIS gauge set.

The product being announced in this thread, the UTCIS-V, is designed to replace all Mercedes OEM WUR parts numbers. The product installs in place of the OEM WUR and includes a small, digital controller box which interfaces with your PC. With the Engine Management software (free), the warm-up control pressure curve and the "run" control pressure can be specified by you, or your technician, as appropriate. The Warm-Up cycle is a series of values over time and temperature. For example, the control pressure should be different at 0 degrees C than at 25 degrees C - the control pressure is set lower when starting cold to provide more fuel, etc. When the engine is warm, there is a range of values for Control Pressure to be set; you specify the desired control pressure relative to Manifold Air Pressure.

For more info on how this operates, you are invited to look at the materials on our website, including an installation manual and a document on how to use the UTCIS Engine Management software.

If there is interest in a more public discussion of how the product works here on the forum, that would be great, but I don't want to over-step the bounds of the use of this forum, so we will not do so without specific invitation and blessing from the moderator(s). However, if you have specific questions, please do not hesitate to ask!

Thanks to Mercedesshop for the opportunity to make this announcement.

Frank
UnwiredTools, LLC
http://unwiredtools.com/utcis.asp

I saw this, and I've been to your website, and there's one thing that's kind of a show stopper for me until I get more information. Maybe you could answer it here?

Do you have "default" profiles that can be loaded and then tweaked? I have a CO meter, but I'm not comfortable starting from scratch. I'm not an engine tuner, and I don't particularly want to be.

Would this have any effect on a car that is stalling out frequently when cold?

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" We have nothing to fear but the main stream media itself . . . ."- Adapted from Franklin D Roosevelt for the 21st century

OBK #55

1998 Lincoln Continental - Sold
Max 1984 300TD 285,000 miles - Sold
The Dee8gonator 1987 560SEC 196,000 miles - Sold
Orgasmatron - 2006 CLS500 90,000 miles
2002 C320 Wagon 122,000 miles
2016 AMG GTS 12,000 miles

Does anyone have any before and after mileage results? I like the idea of aftermarket upgrades but if they result in the same fuel performance then what's the point?

-Troy

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- - - '77 federal 280e - 222k miles
- - - '85 380se - 129k miles
- - - '07 Chevy truck
- - - '79 Datsun 280zx with '82 turbo motor
- - - Currently looking for a clean 190e with less than 160k miles.

The point is that this is a part that is expensive new, if you can even find it. Prior to this work, you were pretty much reduced to using a junkyard part if yours failed.

I Sort of like the idea of something like to this replace the EHA on KE Jet.

Am I right in thinking it reduces the control pressure such that the air plate flap will move more easily for a given amount of fuel. Which equals better control of mixture.
?

The parts cost would be improved I'm sure, however would it function superior to the standard (correctly working) EHA? From my guess, theoretically the EHA should do this job decently because it has a potentiometer air flow sensor which feeds into its operation. But if the air flow sensor is moving about and its position being affected by the EHA itself.... it gets very complicated!!

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190E's:
2.5-16v 1990 90,000m Astral Silver
2.0E 8v 1986 107,000m Black 2nd owner
http://www.maylane.demon.co.uk/190esmall.jpghttp://www.maylane.demon.co.uk/190esmall2.jpg

just replace the coolant temp sensor and reset the computer on the KE-5 Jetronic....costs like $40....

I am stunned as the lunacy of repair costs/diagnosis...incredible...no wonder people are not willing to buy these cars....

I am having a problem,with a 110 engine,bought the car it never ran when i bought it,and has set for years.I have it runing but no exceleration,only idell .It has an ox sensor,air flow sensor,single ex, euro intake.I think my w.u.r. is bad,i have read there are 3 different pres. i have 4 used ones. How do i know if the one that on car is right. do you match# on fuel distributor's with # on w.u.r. To make sure all have same pres.

I'd try replacing the coolant temp sensor...I think they call them thermstors or some such nonsense...a resistor that regulates voltage according to temp change....big guy in the sensor world..very much like the O2 sensor....another large cat in the jungle...good luck

I just got a 76 450SL, was not running, replaced the Fuel Pump Car Starts now. However it will not start unless with the Key in the Ignition turned far right (not starter engaged) and pressing down on the air diaphragm to let fuel into the injectors for 10 sec or so to get 'The screeching sound' then I can crank the engine and it will start, runs up a bit rough for a min or so till I press the gas down and get revs up then it smooth’s out and idles and runs great.

With those symptoms’ and further reading I took apart my Warm Up Regulator and soaked it in gas, used some compressed air through the 2 fuel lines (not the small vac diaphragm though). and reassembled it. It did not make any difference. However today in looking at some Drawings of the WUR's I see there appears to be a "Rod' or "Pin" (see pic) between the Top inside where the Fuel Enters the WUR Chamber and the top of the Cone that sits over the Spring. Mine did not have any "Rod" or "Pin" as illustrated. Just the 2 Springs The Cone and Thermal Element. Should there be a "Rod" or "Pin' between the Cone and the Top Inside of where the Fuel is delivered? See Red Arrow on my attachment.

Any advise what else I should look at or for? Air Temp Sensor?

I am considering purchasing the Unwired Unit, it looks like a nice reliable improvement.. allthough budget is limited.

Thanks,

Scott