The car starts fine and idles normally. But with car in park and I press down on the gas pedal the RPM does not increase. When I put the car in drive, neutral, or reverse and depress the gas pedal I get the same thing...no increase in the RPM and the car will not accelerate. The car will move forward and reverse but only at idle speed. The car had been sitting in my garage for two and half weeks because I was out of town and I had to recharge the battery to start the car. Also the ARS light is lit on the dash board and does not turn off after pressing the switch.

Cross posting, eh?

Hard to say given the dearth of information about the car......

Jim

__________________
14 E250 BlueTEC black. 45k miles
95 E320 Cabriolet Emerald green 66k miles
94 E320 Cabriolet Emerald green 152k miles
85 300TD 4 spd man, euro bumpers and lights, 15" Pentas dark blue 274k miles

if it's an E320 sounds like there is a problem with the electronic accelerator, I've never heard of one straight up not working before but since there is no mechanical link between the pedal and the engine (right?) that sounds like a reasonable guess. If it does turn out to be the EA prepare for major $$$

EDIT: I don't know if the 140 also has EA, but I assume in the other thread you mean 700-900 rpm, since putting the car into drive at 9k rpm would make an EA problem the least of your worries...

__________________
E30 B25
126.036
123.130 with 616-Frankenbenz (sold)
124.030-Greyhound (sold)
124.030-Schnauzer (sold)

DERP DERP

An E?

sam r S320

I'd look at the throttle potentioner and see if the cable is still hooked up to it first; then get codes read.

__________________
Terry Allison
N. Calif. & Boca Chica, Panama

09' E320 Bluetec 77k (USA)
09' Hyundai Santa Fe Diesel 48k (S.A.)

hind site is always 20/20

__________________
E30 B25
126.036
123.130 with 616-Frankenbenz (sold)
124.030-Greyhound (sold)
124.030-Schnauzer (sold)

DERP DERP

reminds me of the time back in 2005 I slammed down the throttle in this old nissan I used to own, I wanting to drive fast in the wet weather slammed on the throttle, then. . nothing. . it wouldnt accelerate at sll when depressing the throttle. So, I idled to a stop in a parking lot, it would creep in gear, but no throttle what-so-ever. . .and I forgot to mention it was pouring down rain. .anyways, left it where it was and walked home, only a mile down the road, did i mention it was pouring down rain, and dryed off. . .went back to it the next day with my other car. . looked around, and low-n-behold, the damn ball joint on the throttle popped of. . lil bastard. .anyways, moral of the story. . check your ball joints. .

__________________
". . .back before accountants designed cars"

-Current Stable-
'78 MB 450SL-C 107.024.12.020783 #3840 <Kayleen>
'85 FORD F250 6.9L Diesel <Allison>
'98 Lexus ES300 <Rachel>
Long Gone...
'74 Chevy G10...........................'99 GMC Yukon 4X4
'83 Chevy Suburban 6.2 diesel .....'99 SAAB 9-5
'90 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS............. '01 Chevy Tahoe
'98 Nissan Altima .......................'02 MB ML320
'88 Chevy Suburban V2500 4X4 6.2 diesel

Thanks for all the great intel on my problem. I'll get the codes read and go from there.

How far down are you depressing the accelerator? Floor it, and then see what happens.

There is, sort of. When ASR/Limp Home fault occurs, the car essentially goes from "electronic assisted/managed" throttle to "electro-mechanical/manual" throttle mode. Driveable, but requiring more muscle, like when power steering fails.

__________________
2008 E350 4matic / Black/Anthracite

------------------------------------
Gone but not Forgotten:
2001 E430 4matic, 206,xxx miles, Black/Charcoal
1995 E320, 252,xxx miles, Black/Grey
1989 260E, 223,00 miles, Black/Black

hmm, did not know that, perhaps it was the input to the EA unit then and not a bad unit itself...

__________________
E30 B25
126.036
123.130 with 616-Frankenbenz (sold)
124.030-Greyhound (sold)
124.030-Schnauzer (sold)

DERP DERP

I'm basically mashing the pedal to the floor board. Nothing happens. The car will only crawl forward and reverse. I'm going to get an OBDII reader to check the codes.

I think you will need SDS (or similar quality $canner) to read that system.

__________________
Terry Allison
N. Calif. & Boca Chica, Panama

09' E320 Bluetec 77k (USA)
09' Hyundai Santa Fe Diesel 48k (S.A.)

What's the difference between the OBDII code reader the SDS scanner?

Don't quote me, but about $16k???

Its what the dealers run from thier laptops.

__________________
Terry Allison
N. Calif. & Boca Chica, Panama

09' E320 Bluetec 77k (USA)
09' Hyundai Santa Fe Diesel 48k (S.A.)

Only the dealer or a very high tech indy would have the proper scanner and the brains to use one.

That said, your comment abot the battery going dead is a huge clue. You might have to have the adaptation values reset, because losing battery power on these cars is a big problem. If you didn't disconnect the battery prior to charging it, you may have opened a can of worms. Most battery chargers put out "dirty" voltage that is also much higher than system voltage. This alone, can create havoc with the modules and computers in the car. If the key was in the ignition when you connected or disconnected the battery you could also have caused problems.

Hopefully, all you need is to have the adaptaion values reset by a competent MB shop, though it is a concern that the ARS light is on all the time.

Peter, thanks for the response. I think the reason the battery keep loosing juice is because my kids keep leaving the reading lights on in the back seat. I had no idea about recharging the battery and "dirty" voltage. I've always just hooked the charger directly to the battery w/o disconnecting. I know the key was not in the ignition when connected/disconnected the battery.

Would the adaption values cause the acceleration problem even though the car crawls in drive?