Throttle Linkage Lube
 

How often should it be done? Ever 15k miles?
What is the purpose? I know mine has not been done in 40k miles atleast.
WHen the car is off and I push the gas, I can hear a metal on metal type sound from the throttle within the engine. Mine needs lubing!
What should I use? How do I do it? This is for 95 C280 with M104 motor. Do I have to remove the air intake crossover pipe? Please help, thanks. :o :p

My maintenance log states the following:

"3022 Lubricate and check engine throttle linkage
All moving parts of the engine throttle linkage must be regularly lubricated with automatic transmission fluid (ATF). Beyond the regular lubrication service intervals, this must be performed after every engine cleaning, and frequently during winter operation when road salt is used.
CHeck the bell cranks, the bearings of the throttle linkage, and the actuator lever for wear and condition regulartly. Check for full operating range."

Ok, I guess that's a start. Just want to confirm the location and how exactly do perform this procedure. I'm sure I can do it myself, and I know it needs cleaning (esp with all of the pedal movement I do!).

That is the same as what is called for on my 190E. I just did it for the first time last week. I used a cotton swab on a long wooden stick. It seemed to work well. I also took out a little slack in the accelerator cable. There is an adjustment knob on my linkage, (M103). Before I had to push the pedal a ways before there was any result. Now it is much more sensitive, which I prefer. It also seems to kick-down a little quicker. Since most of my driving is around town, I like it much better this way. Good luck!

So you just used ATF fluid? And you just "dabbed" around down there? Lubed everything up? Nothing in particular really?
And just to clarify, I must remove the intake pipe that crosses over the engine (M104) to access it, correct? THANKS AGAIN!

My frustration is that I have a standard transmission and still need to buy ATF!

My engine is the inline six. The linkage was under the air cleaner. There were several short rods with ball joint type connections, and they were a little dirty, having collected dirt from previous lubrications I suppose. I just dabbed ATF on all the ball joints, and on the swivel points. It seemed pretty obvious where to apply, once I was actually looking at the linkage. Perhaps I should have disconnected all the ball joints, but as I was not really having any problems, and was just performing routine maintenance, I just dabbed it on, and under, and around. Maybe some of the other guys with more experience could give you better advice. The only difference I seemed to notice, was from taking out a little slack with the cable adjustment. My service manual CD had pictures of various linkages on different MB models.

Here are some pictures, just to be sure.

This first picture of the engine iw without the intake crossover pipe, the throttle linkage being at the lower right-hand corner, so I think.

http://www.a-p-group.com/cklasse/IntakelessEngine.JPG


Next pic of throttle housing with it closed:

http://www.a-p-group.com/cklasse/ThrottleLinkageCL.JPG


Next pic of throttle housing with it opened, WOT.

http://www.a-p-group.com/cklasse/ThrottleLinkageOP.JPG
A little hard to see because of the angle, but it's all the way open.


Now my questions... what in there do I lube? Just each end or whatever!? :confused: Maybe it's as simple as that...? I just keep hearing all of these parts that need lubrication, but don't see many down there! THanks again. :eek:

no no no David - not there
 

The parts that are supposed to be lubed occasionally are the "pivot" points that are outside of the air passage system. If you will look underneath the intake manifold at the linkage that makes that butterfly open you will see some linkage pivot points. Look underneath the intake manifold to the right rear of where you took the pic looking down at the butterfly. You should be able to see some back in there. They are kinda/sorta hard to get to. If you need me to take a pic and post it let me know. There should be three or four on this car (it looks real similar to the E320).

David,
Iv'e been using hydraulic oil on all
the pivot points. I believe,there are 3 of
them one for the trans,accelator,and I
dont know the other one.I used an empty
squirt bottle of Rogaine.The hyd.oil
works for my car, " works for
hair.:D

Yeah, I was thinking that when I was down there actually fooling with the cable and pivot points.

THis more like it??

http://www.a-p-group.com/cklasse/ThrottleLinkage.JPG

When I lube mine, I completely remove all linkage rods from their pivot points, cables I only disconnect. I clean each ball and thouroughly clean out all ball sockets. Then I lube the sockets and reassemble the linkage. Some of the ball sockets may be a little stiff and hard to pop off the balls. A small screw driver placed between the socket edge and whichever lever it is attched to will allow for a slight twisting motion which will pop the socket.

I prefer to use a light grease as it stays on longer, but it also has a greater chance of collecting dirt and debris. Remedy- clean and lube more often.

Thanks for the info Mike. I lubed all that I could get my hands on down there (used a flashlight). It was quite difficult though. There is no room or light down there! What a pain it was. I used a greaser and shot some trans fluid on all moving parts (that I thought were moving parts). Pedal does have a bit easier travel now. Though I'm sure I could do a better job? How do you guys with M104 motors usually do it? THere's just no room!
THanks again for the help everyone.

I remove the air cleaner box and give the whole works (throttle linkages) a good soaking with WD-40 at every oil change. I also spray some carb cleaner in the intake to remove grime. Pedal has always been smooth and quiet.

For what its worth. . .

Mike, thanks for the info. But the M104 motor is a (I think) a bit more tricky than your M103 motor. There was nothing that I could think to remove to give me more room.... except the washer reservoir but I couldn't get it off?! ARGH! Anyway, maybe if someone knows how to take it off, I'll give it a try.
Thanks! But it is working better. I just think I could do a better job if I had more room and had a better view of what I was doing.
Thanks again everyone! :)

George D:

You mentioned that "The only difference I seemed to notice, was from taking out a little slack with the cable adjustment". Can this be done to my C280?