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  #16  
Old 06-30-2008, 09:47 AM
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Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: DFW / Collin County Texas
Posts: 1,882
Quote:
Originally Posted by Randy View Post
If it's a threaded part, just count (carefully) the number of turns required to remove the part, then install the new part the same number of turns. Should at least be really close. I put an outer tie rod end on a couple of years ago, then took it to the alignment shop and it did not require further adjustment.
Hope this helps you.
Thanks for the suggestion - I've thought about doing that, however I think there could still be subtle differences in part dimensions depending on the maker of the part or the manufacturing and quality control conditions. So instead I will mark the threads with white-out, then measure with my calipers and try to duplicate the length as closely as possible.

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  #17  
Old 06-30-2008, 09:51 AM
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Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: DFW / Collin County Texas
Posts: 1,882
Quote:
Originally Posted by myarmar View Post
Put the car up on the jack stands and lock steering wheel so nothing moves. Now get one of those laser levels and clamp it to the brake rotor flat surface. Turn laser pointer on and mark it's position on the garage wall. Do your replacement, and then adjust it to the same marked position. Car needs to be stable and installation of the laser level should be repeatable. Worked for me very good on ML430. And you have nothing to lose to try this method.
Mike
Good suggestion, however there's a problem since my inner tie rod is loose. There's probably 1/2 a mm of play or more. So which position is the reference point - "in" all the way, or "out" all the way?

__________________
08 W251 R350
97 W210 E320
91 W124 300E
86 W126 560SEL
85 W126 380SE Silver
85 W126 380SE Cranberry
79 W123 250
78 W123 280E
75 W114 280
Reply With Quote
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