When R&Ring the flexdisc; if the original relation between drive shaft & differential are maintained, is it a simple change out or are there difficulties associated with preventing driveshaft vibration?

When R&Ring the 2 rear differential bushings, what size is the hex drive? With a jack supporting the diff, will the bolts come straight out? There is only about 3 inches between the bolts and the gas tank on a wagon. Does the gas tank have to be removed?

Are there any special concerns or difficulties when doing these 2 R&Rs?

Bob

You only have to worry about the driveshaft if you seperate the front and rear sections. You will not have vibation problems just installing the flex disc in any of the positions that it wil bolt in. The allen bolts in the diff are 12mm. There is not very much space between the tank and the bolts. I typically use a 12mm wrench on the allen bit b/c the ratchet wont fit. Be prepared for a fight the bolts are fairly tight and are loctited too. Expect to use a cheater bar on whatever you use to turn the bolts. The front diff mount is an 8mm allen with a 17mm nut on top that can be difficult to counter hold. A shorty 17mm wrench is priceless there. With the diff out of the way the bushings are a press fit. An air hammer removes them pretty effectively. I always use the MB tool to press them in but a bolt and large washers can get the job done in a pinch.

Thanks duxthel

Changing diff bushings are way beyond my capabilities. Flexdisc has no tears, but is hard, while the diff bushings are probably OEM at 155 mi. Is there any way to determine if it's the diff bushings or flexdisc that's causing the traditional "clunk" when shifting to reverse / drive?

Bob

It's usually the rear bushings that thunk. I can tell if they're bad visually. If they're bad enough to thunk you typicaly can see the lack of symmetry in the bushing. If you're courageous enough to be under the car while having a helper hold the brakes and shift drive to reverse you can watch them thunking. Proceed at your own risk.