I have a '90 300TE 4MATIC with a cracked outer cv joint boot on the front axle, passenger side.

I have searched all the sources I know for axle removal and boot replacement procedures, but have come up empty.

I checked the CDs as well as ALLDATADIY.com (which I highly recommend checking out, by the way. 24.95 for a year's subscription to all the standard docs plus all the technical bulletins for one car*).

Does anyone know what document/manual I need specifically and where I might find it?

I want to research the job because I'm not sure of the way the spring will react when I unbolt the strut, where I should jack it, whether I need a puller to get the axle out, how to minimize the impact to the alignment, etc. I'd just feel a lot better if I was able to go through the job on paper before I pulled out my wrenches*

The removal of the front axle is under the chassis manual under, oddly enough, "front axle". At least that's how it appears in the hard copy manual. The cd might have another one of those publishing glitches where it has the information but no link to it from the contents. I haven't checked the cd for front axle work but when I first bought my 4matic, I read the hardcopies cover to cover.

Thanks for your response, someguy*

I have the CD, but cannot locate the operation you mention in the front axle area. Do you know the operation number (e.g. 32-150)? If you can give it to me I can search the disk for the right one. I have looked at all the ones that started with the right group number but have not found the one in question.

Also, I wonder where I could get a hard-copy chassis manual. Do you have an idea?

Cheers,
sc

scanny,

I apologize for the delay, but here is where the procedure is at for replacing the axle boots on a 4matic: Chassis manual II - Activity 33-0660, "Replacing bellows on front axle shaft".

To my knowledge, the metal clamps are not obtainable separately, so if you have a boot kit, be very careful with them. Most people I know use tie wraps if the clamps break and change them annually to prevent them from breaking while driving as the get brittle with age.

Also, one of the boots has a plastic spacer that goes between the boot and the axle. This is critical for holding the middle boot clamp in place and a source of frustration for many shop mechanics who get comebacks because the clamps fell off the center.

If you find a source for the metal clamps separately, please let the rest of the 4matic owners on the list know.

Thanks and I hope this helps.

someguy

Hmm, that's very interesting. That operation is not on the CD. I wonder how many others are in the manual but not the CD. I'm checking out with TMC Publications on getting the 4Matic docs on microfiche so we'll see if they are available there. Otherwise maybe I'll go for one of the paper chassis manuals.

Thanks much for your help with this someguy**

Cheers,
sc

scanny,

I left my cd manual at work, but there is an engine decode document that lists all of the engine steps as file numbers you can reach by going through windows explorer instead of the crappy interface mbusa runs on the cd. The steps on the chassis side might be as easy to find on WE. You might want to give it a try.

someguy

Yes, I've been going direct through Windows Explorer these days for the most part because somehow for my particular car the web interface often misses documents that are there or links to the wrong ones.

Cheers,
sc

hey guys - doing the same thing -- have the cd's and cant fine the procedure - have the spindal control arm all apart to do lower ball joint and want to replace the tormn cvpboot while im there - any help would be nice - do i need to remove the rotor / caliper to get at the back side of the cv joint - ?>

Most (but not all) of the 4Matic specific jobs are not on the CD. Available on microfiche.

Btw, for a much easier way to use the CDs, you might want to download my Index setup. Download the zip file (the Model 124, for instance), expand it on your computer, and then follow the simple direction in the included ReadMe file. You'll be able to easily access many more items available on the CD, much faster and find things more logically.

__________________
Steve

1992 300CE Sportline Sophie
1990 300E Emma - in the family
1979 240D Josephine - sold, but not forgotten
2004 Pacifica AWD

http://web.mac.com/dakota/Mercedes/Home.html

Dakota - Thanks i downloaded your index for the 124 - plan on setting that up later today after i get the car back together - I'm absolutly amazed at the level effort everyone has - -- I did find the section on the disks late last night - its on disk two chassis and body >04 universal shaft >06 4matic --I still am not sure how this thing comes aprt i only need to do the outer boot and im hopeing i can get the joint off and aprt for that replacement without removing the whole shaft - ------- fYI just did the bottom ball joint it was a little tough getting the pinch bolt out but some pb blaster and tenacity and a wack or two from the right hammer and out it came - ---

Generic CV boot clamps are available that work excellent!!! About $2 each. I just put two on my wife's Camry. Amazingly simple. Two sizes are available, both 7mm wide. The short one, 350mm long is for the small end & the longer, 750mm is for the big end. Did I really need to type that?

Here's a link CV boot clamps The tool is available from the same place. I recommend the cheapie tool, it works well. Suprisingly enough, I've found the tool at several parts stores. When I asked for the clamps themselves, all I got was blank stares. They wanted to look up the car on the all-knowing, all-seeing computer for a generic part. Oh well.


Enjoy,

__________________
Norm in NJ
Next oil change at 230,000miles

ok - im sorta stuck - i found the procedure in in the cd manual - but its for the inner joint - ? _ do i have to remover the innner to get to the outer - ?? - or do i remove the rotor and hub from the spindle to get at the back of the cv joint so i can remove it from the hub ??????

OK - matt spoke too soon - the procedure i found was not the one we were looking for --- however i now have the cv joint out of the hub pretty easily actualy--Now i need to get it off the end of the axle -- Anyone have any EXP here ?? i've seen slide hamer type tools for this job does anyone know the MB tool or have recomendations - /? when im done with this i'll do a full write up with pics -

Scanny,
I've got the 1990 Preliminary Service Manual for the 4Matic, and it's descriptionn of removing the front half shafts is much more elaborate than I've seen done on my 91 3200TE 4Matic. All four CV boots have been replaced on my wagon.
After lifting the wagon on a hoist, the tech removes the wheel and the axle spline nut (12 point collar nut/280-320 Nm), and then removes the six hex bolts that attach the half shaft at the front diff. (70Nm).
The axle shaft is then compressed as tightly as possible and the inner CV joint is wired together to keep it from splitting apart when removed. You don't want to go chasing roller bearings all over the floor. I remember the tech removing the steering damper rod to make it a bit easier to wrestle out the shaft. No presses were used just a rubber hammer on the axle spline to dislodge it from the hub.
Pretty simple, as i recall. The worst part was getting the clamps on tight. I think you've got my phone number, if you need to call.
Best regards,
Hazen

__________________
Hazen Arnold
Happiness is a well stocked
garage.

Hi madmatt,

I've forwarded you via e-mail a scan of the job sheet for removing the front drive shafts, and a second one for how to replace the boots. They were too big to attach here.

Hazen's description is consistent with my experience last time I was in there. Definitely be careful not to screw-up the new clamps, since they are not available separately. I usually try to get the old ones out in recoverable condition just as a back up. But make sure your diags or end-nippers are not too sharp such that they cut when you crimp the new clamp. There's a special tool available for this job made by Hazet, which I have, but an end-nippers used carefully works almost as well.

There is very little clearance between the outer boot clamp and the spindle/hub, so make sure that as you crimp the clamp you also keep it from sticking out too far. And I recommend you turn it by hand once it's installed to see if it hits.

I do recommend that you replace both the inner and outer while you're in there. They seem to not outlast each other by very long and it would be a shame to have to go in there twice, especially since I believe you have to take off the inner boot to get the outer boot off.

You might also think about doing the other side at the same time, since they seem to go about the same time. I did one side only the first time, and I was in there doing the other side about 6 weeks later. It's a lot neater to do it before the black moly grease explodes onto everything.

Best of luck,
Steve Canny