Posted a few days ago about replacing the passenger front window motor. Jump tested it in the door and it wouldn't budge. Ordered a replacement motor and after I removed the old one decided just for grins to shoot some juice to it. Well, the old one came back to life and worked great. Re-installed and it worked perfect using a 12volt power supply jumper. Hooked up the console switch and using the cars power switch...the thing is slow and has to be helped up with a hand against it. Doubted myself and I checked again by hitting it with the power supply juice. (works perfect with the pwr supply), but sluggish with the console switch. Is there some type of voltage regulator that controls the power from the cars voltage to the windows? It seems it just isn't getting the power it needs. Any imput would be appreciated.

Could dirty contacts in the switch cause this?

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OBK #55

1998 Lincoln Continental - Sold
Max 1984 300TD 285,000 miles - Sold
The Dee8gonator 1987 560SEC 196,000 miles - Sold
Orgasmatron - 2006 CLS500 90,000 miles
2002 C320 Wagon 122,000 miles
2016 AMG GTS 12,000 miles

If you say what car you are working on you might get more answers. They are not all wired the same.

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1998 C230 330,000 miles (currently dead of second failed EIS, yours will fail too, turning you into the dealer's personal human cash machine)
1988 F150 144,000 miles (leaks all the colors of the rainbow)
Previous stars: 1981 Brava 210,000 miles, 1978 128 150,000 miles, 1977 B200 Van 175,000 miles, 1972 Vega (great, if rusty, car), 1972 Celica, 1986.5 Supra

I assume from his tag...an 89 190E...

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2009 ML350 (106K) - Family vehicle
2001 CLK430 Cabriolet (80K) - Wife's car
2005 BMW 645CI (138K) - My daily driver
2016 Mustang (32K) - Daughter's car

Sorry, it's an 89 MB 190 E. Don't think it's the switch, just replaced it. I put a voltage meter on the contact with the switch wire attached and it shows a 12 volt load when the power is on and shows the same when the switch is pushed. I dabbed a little all purpose grease in the regulator tracks and that didn't help. It still needs help with a hand to open and close. ???????????? Tomorrow I am going to try running a jump wire from the console switch to the hot lead of the window motor switch on the door. This should bypass any "regulator" that is lowering the voltage.

Could a bare wire be draining some of your power when you hit the switch and allowing only some of the juice to go to the motor? Guess another way to state it is - can you test the juice you are getting through the wire just before it attaches to the motor?

I think what you are saying is you put your volt meter probes across the switch contacts and read 12V whether the switch was pushed or not? Is that correct? Or did you do a different test? If that is what you did then that shows your switch is bad. One test you can do is jumper over the switch with a piece of wire. If the window works then it shows the switch is bad. A schematic would be nice however...

__________________
1998 C230 330,000 miles (currently dead of second failed EIS, yours will fail too, turning you into the dealer's personal human cash machine)
1988 F150 144,000 miles (leaks all the colors of the rainbow)
Previous stars: 1981 Brava 210,000 miles, 1978 128 150,000 miles, 1977 B200 Van 175,000 miles, 1972 Vega (great, if rusty, car), 1972 Celica, 1986.5 Supra