SRS light.
 

Recently the SRS light just comes on when I turn the key on in ignition, but it goes off around 1 minutes. Everytime is just like that, so what is wrong with that??

Regards,
Stephen

One of your seat belt need to be replaced.

jack

how do you know it's a seat belt problem? and if it's a seat belt problem, how can I know which seat belt need to be replaced?

It's one of the front two seatbelt buckles. Check them closely, see if they are damaged in any way. Also, it could be damaged from a liquid getting in there.
If you really want to know, you'll have to take it to the dealer to have them plug your car into their scanner (not OBD, a different plug) to see exactly which one it is.

The SRS light would come on in my car for about 90 seconds every time I started the car, and then go out. About the same time, I noticed my driver's side belt buckle was somewhat separated. I replaced the belt buckle myself (part cost about $75 for me), but still had to take it into to the Mercedes dealer to have the code reset!

SRS light
 

I had this problem at about 155,000 miles-in addition, the SRS light would sometimes blink on and off at random (THAT was fun) Turns out it was a couple of bad sensors-cost about $450 to fix ...(one was the sensor that inflated the bag-so I wasn't willing to just live with it...)

Your alternator output/charging system voltage, if low will kick on the SRS light, disarming the system until adequate output is available. Have the electrical system checked first. Easy to do and doesn't cost but a nickle..

No, no, no.

If the SRS light comes on for a set amt of time (apprx 90 seconds) every time you start the car, then it is one of the two front seat belts. If it goes on at random or is not consistent with TIME ON (of the light) at each start, then I'd checking the charging system. Other wise, it's one of the front seat belt buckles (female connector).

Yes Yes Yes
 

Do check the system voltage. It's easy and quick. If you have a faulty voltage regulator which can display any number of symptoms, it will disable the SRS. Eliminate the easy stuff first, then dig into seat belt connectors and the like with a multimeter. Your basic troubleshooting conundrum.

You need to take it to a dealer where they can hook an instrument to access what output code your car is giving. Depending on the code will determine whether or not it is a seat belt, steering wheel, or the air bag sensors. If no code, then maybe it is the charging system. Would not the charging light illuminate if it was the charging system however?

Somebody said that they had their airbag sensor replaced for $450. Pretty good since they cost normally around $1100 I believe down here.

Read this post:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/tech-help/16306-srs-light-stays-1-minute-after-starting-car.html?highlight=SRS+LIGHT+C280

Make a judgment for yourself, and have the dealer check the codes to find out for sure if you're in doubt!

KISS
 

Hey guys, just trying to help Stephen eliminate the simple stuff before dipping into the more exotic(expensive) service venues.

SRS Light
 

I just got back from my Mercedes Benz dealer. My SRS light won't go out. The dealer performed the short test and checked for codes. Apparently I have a bad SRS sensor. It looks like the cost will run about $1200.00. OUCH!!!!!

Bob:(

To add to what Jeff has already suggested......

Sometimes if you have an SRS light that stays on AFTER the car is started, you may have worn brushes in the voltage regulator. In many cases, the ABS and the SRS light will remain on.

To get an idea of how the charging system is working, do the following:

- Obtain a VOM(voltage-ohm-meter)
- Set it to the 20 scale
- Start car
- Connect red lead to battery + post
- Connect black lead to battery - post
- Observe reading. Some say 13.5 volts is good
- If you're seeing anything much lower, brushes may be worn.

Did they do the diagnostic testing with the car running or just check the fault codes while it was off?

Jim,

That's a great question and unfortunately one that I did not ask. I intuit from your question that the results might differ depending on how the test was conducted. I would have assumed the test was performed with the engine running, but I know what happens when you assume. The code listed on my receipt was code 2.

Bob