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  #16  
Old 10-02-2008, 10:18 AM
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The ABS light is not on, however through the use of a multi-meter, both rear and left front ABS sensor outputs are relatively the same for a given speed. The right front one is the oddball, producing almost zero output. Why it isnt triggering the ABS light instead of seeing it as a locked up wheel is beyond me...

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  #17  
Old 10-02-2008, 10:46 AM
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The main factor for sensor output is spacing, so you have worn down reluctor teeth or a bad sensor.

A scope is nice when you do these b/c then you then see what the Module is actually seeing [ which is why I posted the article]
An ohm value only tells you the sensors coil ohmage for shorts or open circuit and a volt reading tells the Average amplitude. But a scope will tell you every single sine wave chacrteristic of every reluctor hall effect on the sensor. That is what you want to know.
I suspect reluctor height has deminished, just from wear and road rash/ruct. But do not over-look a possible bad sensor...Does the new one match up measurment-wise w/the old one.

Also check that the wheel bearings are not loose..
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  #18  
Old 10-02-2008, 10:52 AM
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Arthur,

Thanks for the advice. I agree a scope would be key. I nor my independant have access to one at this point. I did not put the old sensor next to the new one to compare. They looked the same to me, but that might be in order.

I redid the wheel bearings earlier this week before I put the new sensor in. They are nice and tight with new grease.

A local salvage yard is sening me a good used hub today that im going to put on. It was relatively inexpensive ($36) and hopefully will put an end to this madness. If that doesnt solve it, then my ideas are exhausted.
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  #19  
Old 10-03-2008, 08:22 AM
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Update - fixed!!!

FIXED!!!

The new (good used) hub fixed the problem. Turns out the corrosion did knock some height off the reluctors.

Thanks too all that helped, especially Arthur and DOC.
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  #20  
Old 10-03-2008, 09:54 AM
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Thanks for posting a fix - I hate it when threads like this get really good and detailed and then just ... fall flat. Nice to see a resolution.
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  #21  
Old 10-03-2008, 09:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Arthur Dalton View Post
The main factor for sensor output is spacing, so you have worn down reluctor teeth or a bad sensor.

A scope is nice when you do these b/c then you then see what the Module is actually seeing [ which is why I posted the article]
An ohm value only tells you the sensors coil ohmage for shorts or open circuit and a volt reading tells the Average amplitude. But a scope will tell you every single sine wave chacrteristic of every reluctor hall effect on the sensor. That is what you want to know.
I suspect reluctor height has deminished, just from wear and road rash/ruct. But do not over-look a possible bad sensor...Does the new one match up measurment-wise w/the old one.

Also check that the wheel bearings are not loose..

I've often thought about a scope. Can one be had inexpensively? Perhaps used? Any links to an example?
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  #22  
Old 10-03-2008, 11:19 AM
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Best one is an LS2000..they are DSO and user friendly..and altho they origianally were around $2 grand, you see them on ebay all the time for a couple hundred. Try and find one that also comes with the ign pick-up.
That scope will pick up anything on automotive systems.
Unfortunately, the days of diagnosing with a DMM and a test lamp are disappearing b/c of the technology and a DSO is now just commonplace in any shop. But the upside is now you can buy one for cheap..and once you own one , you will wonder how the hell you got by w/o it.
You can look at any sensor and diagnose it in 30 secs w/o that " WONDER if 'dis is gonna' work " feeling you get as you buy an expensive part ..so, it pays for itself.
I see many post here where the poster says his Mechanic does not have a scope...RUN...that puts him in the same boat you are in...Guessing.

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