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#1
12-30-2008, 08:46 PM
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Siezed/sticky doorlocks!
I know all the old MB I've come across have screwy door locks.
Now I've got this '72 220D and NONE of the locks close with the key! And the trunk won't budge with the key either! I think all the locks work by moving the knob inside, but, some require a bunch of up/down etc and messing with the handle to get them to lock. Any way to get this going without taking the door panel off? Am I screwed here? The car is pretty straight otherwise, just been sitting around the damp NW for a little while, didn't get used for a year (other than getting started). Now I own it and wish I could lock the doors!! mark in Portland 
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#2
12-30-2008, 09:10 PM
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I will guess your key is a copy of a copy of a copy and/or is worn. Maybe a good locksmith could help, or maybe the dealer could cut a new key? Maybe you have to go to headquarters for one that old. You might want to post in the vintage section.
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1998 C230 330,000 miles (currently dead of second failed EIS, yours will fail too, turning you into the dealer's personal human cash machine) 1988 F150 144,000 miles (leaks all the colors of the rainbow) Previous stars: 1981 Brava 210,000 miles, 1978 128 150,000 miles, 1977 B200 Van 175,000 miles, 1972 Vega (great, if rusty, car), 1972 Celica, 1986.5 Supra
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#3
12-30-2008, 10:18 PM
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I just did one from that vintage style.
What I found was the tumblers were so full of crap that the key could not pull the wafers down into place. I took each one apart and reworked them, but a good attempt first will be some BP Blaster into the key slots and then some air to blow them out. [ let the BP sit for a while] The main problem with these old tumblers is they get worn from key insertion to the point that they will not lift the wafer/tumblers far enough for the cylinder to get past the shear line. A simple fix w/o rekeying is to take the cylinders out and insert the key..then file down the offending tumblers that are too high until they are even with the shear surface of the cylinder it takes very little filing andit is just to make up for the wear amount on the tumbler..an emery finger nail board works good ..Then when you put the key back into the cylinder , all the tumblers are even and the key can then be turned. The tumblers slide into a slot and the key will not turn until those tumblers recede into the cylinder ..only then can the key be turned.......... It was easier than one would suspect and beats the Lock Smith trip. An easy one would be to start with the trunk one to see how they work..that one is just held on with a snap ring and then the cylinder comes right out..you will then see how they work. Or the glove box one. Try the BP first.........
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A Dalton Last edited by Arthur Dalton; 12-30-2008 at 11:42 PM.
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