Needs some help with transmission swap

[Enajizer]

First of all, I'd like to say hello to everyone! I've been doing lots of reading here on the forum for the last few weeks. I've been working on cars most of my life, but most of the work I've done would be considered "old school" because it's been mainly on my own vehicles that I use for street cruising and/or racing at the dragstrip. None of these vehicles were computer controlled.

But anyway, I recently purchased a 1999 E430 which is the first Mercedes I've ever owned. The car needed a transmission and while reading here and there, I learned that the 722.6 trans that the E430 has also came in the new Chrysler Crossfires, but wasn't the exact model.

But anyway, to make a long story a little shorter...I got a pretty good deal on a Crossfire trans especially compared to what the 722.623 costs, but realized I was taking a gamble. I installed it into the car..having to swap out the drive shaft flange (or whatever the proper term is for the part) for the original one. Also, although the Crossfire trans case has a provision for the park lock it is not completely drilled through and this isn't currently hooked up (so the car can be shifted without having to have the brake pedal pressed down).

At first I originally used the entire Crossfire trans. Once I took the car for a ride it would shift one time and then stick in 2nd or 3rd and the check engine light would come on. After trying to drive it a little and realizing it wasn't gonna get better, I installed the original E430 valve body and electrical plate into the trans. Well, needless to say it pretty much did the same thing. Then I read about removing the TCU codes and things like that so I ended up purchasing a programming tool from Ebay in hopes of clearing the codes. I got it and scanned for codes and it came back with "gang not plausible or gearbox slipping". I cleared it and went for a drive only to have it do the same thing. So, now I'm thinking well maybe I should try the the original Crossfire valve body and electrical plate...maybe it didn't work before because I didn't clear the code. Well, that was just more wasted time. The car will shift one time and then just stay in the same gear as already said. If I stop and shut the car off, it will again shift only once or twice. If I have the car on a lift and run it through the gears, it works just fine and doesn't through a code, but as soon as I drive it, it's no good.

One thing now that I notice with the program on the laptop is that while it's running and I shift it into different gears, Reverse shows up on the program as Selector=R but says Neutral is the actual gear. It didn't do that with the 430 valve body and electrical plate. But the Turbine RPM sensor on this plate seemed to bounce around from say 680 RPMs to 0 while I had the car in gear and my foot on the brake. Which is pretty much why I changed it just this last time.

I always try to do work myself mainly to save myself some money and because I am capable of doing so. But I am really lost now and I'm not sure what to do. I think about just buying the correct trans for the car, but would die if I did that and still ended up with the same problem.

Anyway, I apologize for such a long first post....I'm just hoping somebody more "Mercedes knowledgeable" can point me in the right direction.

Thanks for reading...