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#2
11-08-2008, 12:09 PM
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The blower motor is under the wiper motor.
There is a separate fuse I believe, it is in its own holder on the driver-side inner fender. Small black flip-top fuseholder, one wire out each side. Special M-B item.
__________________
 Gone to the dark side - Jeff 
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#4
11-08-2008, 06:09 PM
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Quote:
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#5
11-08-2008, 06:31 PM
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Looks like it, although the fuse doesn't look right.
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Gone to the dark side - Jeff
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#6
11-08-2008, 07:48 PM
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That is it, but someone has tapped into that circuit for power to something else...which could be a problem. To test that strip fuse , you want to test for power on each side to ground for 12v. b/c they get a hairline crack that is not detectable by eyeballing it.
Where does that added RED wire/fuse holder go to ???????????/
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A Dalton
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#7
11-09-2008, 12:39 AM
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Quote:
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#8
11-09-2008, 01:08 PM
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Quote:
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#9
11-09-2008, 01:15 PM
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I would test for power at the 3 wire blower feed plug on firewall before digging in to get to the blower.
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A Dalton
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#11
11-09-2008, 04:31 PM
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Behind the brake booster is the 3 wire plug .
With key ON , you want 12v from red to blk..then you want a variable voltage [ from 2-9 aprox] from the yellow to blk, depending on where the fan speed selector is at. That is the trigger voltage for the regulator and you have to check that first b/c many guys change the regulator at great cost only to find out they simply had no trig V at the yellow wire..NO Trigger V. = No fan. And no trigger can be a simple CC panel fuse or bad ign sw. If you have those 3 test as verified at the connector/plug, then you have to go down to blower motor..the simple test there is to ground the blue wire with a jumper wire to ground..if you then get High Fan, the problem is the Regulator [ providing you know you have Variable trigger at yellow wire at regulator.] A word of caution for the fuse link that you verified. The best test for that is to jumper it with a fused jumper wire b/c they can test fine w/DMM until the fan circuit puts a load on the fuse ..it then opens up...so a quick jumper there may save you a lot of false diagnostics..........
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A Dalton
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#12
11-09-2008, 04:48 PM
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Quote:
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#13
11-09-2008, 04:58 PM
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You can make these test with a simple 12v test lamp...so that might make it easier for you.
I only want you to know that all these test are made right from the test connector plug before you go down into the blower motor compartment. iIsee so many guys rip stuff all apart for nothing when the testing connections are right there on top of the firewall....
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A Dalton Last edited by Arthur Dalton; 11-09-2008 at 05:03 PM.
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#14
11-09-2008, 05:34 PM
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Quote:
th_Plug001.jpghttp://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/attachment.php?attachmentid=60750&stc=1&d=1226266318 th_Plug002.jpg This is all i could find.
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#15
11-09-2008, 06:37 PM
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Let me see if the schematic gives the connector exact location ...
I thought it was behind the booster on that chassis.
__________________
A Dalton
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