Is there any temperature sensor in the 722.418 transmission that can be replaced at low cost?

The transmission of my 318 kilo-mile 1992 300D shifts fine when the transmission of fully warmed up (except some banging when changing from R to D).

Before it is fully warmed up, shift quality is not good especially at gentle acceleration. The car often bangs and its front lifts up at 1->2. The engine revolution sometimes goes up at 2->3.

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1992 300D 2.5 turbo diesel. 319 k miles.
124.128 chassis, 602.962 engine, 722.418 tranny.

I can send you some documents on this problem. Send me your email addy

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1986 300SDL, 211K,Dealership serviced its whole life
1991 190E 2.6(120k)
1983 300D(300k)
1977 300D(211k)

Oracle12345,
Thank you so much for the info.

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1992 300D 2.5 turbo diesel. 319 k miles.
124.128 chassis, 602.962 engine, 722.418 tranny.

I plan to check vacuum.

Today, I saw the filter right above the vacuum pump. It had some black stuff. So I blew it with a compressed gas duster (the spray type duster available in computer hardware store). Now I see a cleaner metal mesh. The transmission shift became a little bit better.

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1992 300D 2.5 turbo diesel. 319 k miles.
124.128 chassis, 602.962 engine, 722.418 tranny.

I hope you don't start out in 1 then shift up into 2 and drive. Thats not good for your tranny. If thats not the case, did you see if you have overdrive ON?

I usually leave the tranny at D. It automatically starts from 1. Some earlier production of Mercedes W124 (E class) starts from 2, but mine does not do that. Mine has no overdrive switch.

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1992 300D 2.5 turbo diesel. 319 k miles.
124.128 chassis, 602.962 engine, 722.418 tranny.

Is it normal to have black sludge in vacuum line?
I told that I saw sludge in the vacuum filter right above the vacuum pump.

Today I saw the vacuum damper (the green cylinder right above the vacuum control valve right behind the injection pump; from this green cylinder, the vacuum line goes to the transmission).

I could not see light through the hole. It seems to be clogged with sludge. With a new vacuum damper (000-304-02-34) however, I could see light through the hole.

The vacuum damper has no three star on it. So I guess the previous owner replaced it at an independent shop. I am putting a now damper with three star on it.

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1992 300D 2.5 turbo diesel. 319 k miles.
124.128 chassis, 602.962 engine, 722.418 tranny.

pull it out and see whats going on in there- the o ring shouldnt be hard as a rock or any tears or crumbling to it. the passageway into the throttle body should be clean- sludge in there will keep the pintle from closing properly.
if thats all clean, you can take the idle speed motor to your local dealer and have it checked- they should have a tool there that they hook up to it to reset the pintle and actually make it move so it can be seen working properly.

With new vacuum damper above the vacuum control valve (a thing attached to injection pump), and the connecting black rubbers (the curved one on top of the vacuum damper that joins the hose to the tranny, and the other one joining the hose from vacuum pump to the vacuum control valve) sprayed with compressed air duster, the shift is a little better again.

There are two holes on top of the vacuum control valve: to vacuum pump and to transmission. Can I blow compressed air into these holes to clean the inside? Will the compressed air damage the diaphragms inside the vacuum control valve? Will the compressed air make a mess inside the vacuum control valve by splattering lubricating oil?

This is the compressed air duster I have.
http://www.falconsafety.com/dustoff/ProductDetails.aspx?ItemId=67

I have no skill to pull out vacuum pump or vacuum control valve.

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1992 300D 2.5 turbo diesel. 319 k miles.
124.128 chassis, 602.962 engine, 722.418 tranny.