87 190e 2.3 changing head gasket - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

SD300 · #1 03-28-2009, 01:59 PM

Hi anybody changed a head gasket in a 190e 2.3?

I have rounded up most of the tools, the 12 points head bolt. And the T 40 6 point to do the 3 bolts inside the timing chain chamber.

Also need to find a way of pulling the screw/stud that fasten the right side timing chain plastic cover. Suppose to be 2 of these funny contraption.

The exhaust manifold doenst look like it can slide out by itself. May need to undo the left engine mount bolt & jack her up so the engine can tilt to right hopefu;; enuf room for the exhaust mani to slide out.
If I can clear up all the paraphenelia the head should come apart.
It all started out with no compression on one cyl.

Any better suggestions besides taking the head off? I cant think of any at the moment.

To the professionals is probably a real cinch, as they do this 3 x a week.
any input will be greatly appreciated.

professor · #2 03-28-2009, 08:40 PM

I have removed a head from a 2.3 8V in the junkyard and it's very easy. The exhaust manifold will come out, just make sure you take all the screws out from the block and from the exhaust towards the cat. It will lift up then slide it. No need to fiddle with the engine mount.
Oh, don't forget to the bolt on the right front. Do not pull on the head if it's resisting and do not wedge a screwdriver or anything in there to lift it. Everything should come out smoothly except the head bolt that are in there quite tight. Use the proper bit to fit and use a breaker extension wrench.
Make sure you also remove the intake manifold

professor · #3 03-28-2009, 08:41 PM

Oh, just in case you don't find the chain link, just wedge a screwdriver and destroy the chain. I hope you have a new chain as you should anyway.

SD300 · #4 03-28-2009, 11:06 PM

The exhaust manifold will come out, just make sure you take all the screws out from the block

The exhaust mani as suggested by the manual to undo the 4 bolts where the down pipe join. Its a header type with 2 to 1, so we need to undo 4 bolts.
The bolts on the ex mani can be fun /rusted out as under heat all the time. Can be more fun to undo them.

SD300 · #5 03-28-2009, 11:17 PM

just undid the right side plastic chain cover, one more brass plug to pull.
The brass plug uses a M6 bolt to extract with a small socket over it.

I am still puzzled how the serpentine tension to be slackened?
I undid the bolt between the p/s pump and block , even the tension was gone i dont see how the idler wheel slacken off.

when the S belt can be removed, then i can take off the alternator and loosen up the chain tensioner.
Have bought the 12 points torq bit socket.

Just drained the anti-freeze.
i will work again tomorrow, need time away.
10 yrs ago I did bmw 320i thought that was a nigthmare, wait till i see this!

professor · #6 03-29-2009, 12:24 PM

The chain tensioner in on the side of the block near the alternator. You will have to move the alternator to reach it.

SD300 · #7 03-30-2009, 03:52 AM

My belt tensioner is stuck too, undo the tension bolt, it wouldn't slacken the belt.

Anyways had a long pry bar got the belt off.
Had used a M6 bolt with washers and a slightly socket to keep turning the brass plug that holds the timing chain plastic cover ( on right side of chain) , 2 of them, saw the lower one which is hidden behind the Thermostat housing.

Next step should be tilting the rngie to right so exhaust manif will slide out. At present the ex mani cannot clear.
To undo the manif /down tube bolt can be risky, as they get hot all the time and could be very stuck too.
These 190e are not exactly easy to work on because lacking of room to work.
My friend said, sometimes it could be valve seat got burned too, so not just valves alone.

Thanks everybody for being so helpful. And reading Edward the scissor hand performing a head job.

SD300 · #8 04-01-2009, 02:07 AM

I have got the chain tensioner undone, was a 32MM socket. The Alternator has to come off.
Undone the electrical harness, for a while thought its impossible to do.
Tomorrow should be the moment of truth, since all the head bolts were loosened and out.
Need an engine hoist to lift the head with intake manifold.
The exhaust manif was out already since I unbolt the Pass/ left side engine mount, jack engine up the block tilt right so the exhaust manif can allow clearance.

One big support under the Intake Manif had not been located yet, not sure where it is.
There are 2 supports for intake M were undone already.
So please pray for me.

SD300 · #9 04-02-2009, 02:39 AM

finally got the head separated, i borrowed a engine hoist from my bro. I dont need to strain our backs. Is not real heavy, but to break the adhesion is not going to be fun.

The #1 exhaust valve doe shave a chip broken off. We've ordered a new valve. Plus head gasket.
The HG looks like it was 2 times looky, so we do get her a new one.
The Valve should be here tomorrow, hopefully we can get her back soon. Need to grind the new valve too.
The serpentine belt tension screw came off, it looks like I have to un-do the p/steering pump to get in thee to re-attach that, any suggestions?

SD300 · #10 04-10-2009, 01:33 AM

Thank God the serpentine belt tension screw was able to hooked back. The head gasket is back is running. But a day later it develops a timing chain noise, I had changed the upper chain guide. I did installed the chain guide up side down, I didnt think it can be possible but either way can, except wrong way will cause the chain to be out of line.
Now the rattling still persists, I really dont know, either the lower chain guide was broken too or the tensioner spring is not as strong as it should have been.
SO any comments?
TIA

Hirnbeiss · #11 04-10-2009, 07:48 AM

Did you remove the tensioner completely and reset it before reinstalling? It ratchets out when the chain is loosened and then stays tehre.

SD300 · #12 04-10-2009, 01:40 PM

Did you remove the tensioner completely and reset it before reinstalling?

How to do the installing?
I must have skip that part when reading the manual.

The tensioner felt when pushed all the way in there is a catch kind of stay inside if u pull it will come pop put.

wonder how to reset.
Thanks in advance.

Hirnbeiss · #13 04-10-2009, 02:20 PM

You need to remove the tensioner body so you can pull the plunger out the business end. Then reinstall the body, insert the plunger, and reinstall the spring and cap.

slk230red · #14 04-10-2009, 02:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hirnbeiss

You need to remove the tensioner body so you can pull the plunger out the business end. Then reinstall the body, insert the plunger, and reinstall the spring and cap.

Yes, that's how I did it when I did the head job on my '93 2.3

SD300 · #15 04-10-2009, 05:28 PM

I only just put back the way it came out. So take her apart and re-assemble it may do the trick.
One folk told about the new spring is much longer than the old one, so my reasoning is the old spring has probably lost her strength after 22 yrs, the car is 87 with only 240,000 km maybe 140,000 miles. I am planning to buy a new tensioner spring anyways.
I thought of the lower chain guide maybe broken too, but kind of unlikey only drove it for few hrs after the head was put back.
I am betting on the tensioner not giving enough tension, when running with valve cover off, I can see the chain kind of wobble or float a bit. The tensioner is there but not tight enough.
Anyways pray is the tensioner.

If it were the spring weakens taking it apart and put back should not solve the weakened spring problem either.
Thanks for all your reply.