My 300TE Head Gasket Thread (yes pics!)
 

Finally got around to actually doing it!

PLEASE post any comments/thoughts/suggestions because this is my first engine overhaul I've ever done!

Mid way through. Coffee break with pictures :)


http://www.ps2cho.net/downloads/phot...ket/head_1.jpg

http://www.ps2cho.net/downloads/phot...ket/head_2.jpg


Possible Misfire cause? Cracked!!


http://www.ps2cho.net/downloads/phot...ket/head_3.jpg

http://www.ps2cho.net/downloads/phot...ket/head_4.jpg


New Belt going on now


http://www.ps2cho.net/downloads/phot...ket/head_5.jpg

http://www.ps2cho.net/downloads/phot...ket/head_6.jpg

http://www.ps2cho.net/downloads/phot...ket/head_7.jpg

http://www.ps2cho.net/downloads/phot...ket/head_8.jpg

Gonna remove the head without the intake side attached. As far as I understand it is possible, but a little more tricky. Less removed = less potential lost items and problems in general.

Thinking of getting my valve cover and exhaust manifolds powder coated too. Silver valve cover and black exhaust manifolds. What do ya guys think :D

Nice pictures, keep them coming.

Did you blow head gasket ?

Is that a plastic thermostat housing I spy?
While you are about things changeout to a metal one is a good idea.

Keep those fotos coming.

I am in the middle of doing mine...
 

but I am taking my time. However, I do recommend powder coating your valve cover but, not your exhaust manifolds. There is a special coating used for the manifolds. I used a metal coating for mine. This was done a few years back and still look good (I think). I will post pictures after I am done...

Not sure. I have a misfire and there is some leakage from the head gasket coupled with an air leak between cylinders. It's gotta be done. I also have a huge coolant loss at the rear of the engine.

Here she is!!

http://www.ps2cho.net/downloads/phot...et/head_11.jpg

http://www.ps2cho.net/downloads/phot...et/head_12.jpg

http://www.ps2cho.net/downloads/phot...et/head_13.jpg

http://www.ps2cho.net/downloads/phot...et/head_14.jpg

http://www.ps2cho.net/downloads/phot...et/head_15.jpg

http://www.ps2cho.net/downloads/phot...et/head_16.jpg

http://www.ps2cho.net/downloads/phot...et/head_17.jpg





Here are each of the cylinders in order 1-6. How do they look?

http://www.ps2cho.net/downloads/phot.../head_cyn1.jpg

http://www.ps2cho.net/downloads/phot.../head_cyn2.jpg

http://www.ps2cho.net/downloads/phot.../head_cyn3.jpg

http://www.ps2cho.net/downloads/phot.../head_cyn4.jpg

http://www.ps2cho.net/downloads/phot.../head_cyn5.jpg

http://www.ps2cho.net/downloads/phot.../head_cyn6.jpg



Here is my coolant leak it looks like:

http://www.ps2cho.net/downloads/phot...et/head_10.jpg




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Overall took me about 8hours including breaks. Didn't run into any major problems which was nice. A bit fiddly taking off the head without the intake manifold and items attached, but I think it was well worth it. Less hassle on putting everything back in.

Gonna take the head to a machine shop on Monday and get them to skim it and check everything over.

Where can I find the threaded Freeze plug that is for Cylinder #6??? All I find is the non-threaded one that goes on 1-5...but I need a new one for 6. Finally got it off and there is so much corrosion inside its completely blocked. That freeze plug was my coolant leak 100% sure

Yikes....I hope ours with 134k has either already had that done....or won't need it for a while! :eek: Any ideas why yours needed it so early with only 90k on it?

The car pretty much sat unused for most of its life. 5 previous owners too. I bought the car from the last guy who had it under a tree for 9 months. This is the reason why the interior is in great shape and so is the engine in general. All my problems are gasket related in reality. All my vacuum hoses were solid as a rock before I swapped em out.

Are you doing the water pump at the same time?

Hope you can make it in time for the SoCal GTG :)

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/238383-socal-meet-anyone-january-10-2009-a-7.html

what did you use for vacuum hoses, Mine are also hard as a rock and need to be replaced.

Looks like this. However labeled as an oil galley plug of a 380 engine.

http://69.0.158.19/live/A103573220OES.JPG

the collection of the brown paste behind the block plug that is leaking is someone years back replaced the OEM antifreeze with the stuff we use to have in the USA that is not compatible with alloy headed motors - and the water they put in with it is loaded with iron - we have always used distilled water ( stuff used in an Iron ) is the only water allowed in an alloy blocks - headed motors -

ALSO their is a picture that to me shows a slight head gasket seep - its the #6 cylinder on the exhaust side towards the front of the motor looking at it 7 o'clock - its looks as if some kind of fluid combustion transfer was going on -

at first when I read this I was not sure of the mileage but after seeing the engines inside condition shown in pictures it looks about right oil changes were done on time or before , as far as cleaning out the cooling system I would not put any of the caustic stuff they sell for that purpose, I would fill it with water only and every day for 2 or 3 days drain the block, take it to work and back ( block drain plug is on the side close to the leaking plug on the earlier car don't know about yours ) and flush out the rad then I would put in the pento stuff I like the blue and swap it out every 30,000 miles - the red is forever well nothing is forever - care must be taken not to get the little bits while cleaning into the cylinders and chain case area use PAPER towels not rags ( RAGS leave material lint every place they have been and you cant get it out of the very small places ) as far as the exhaust is concerned you cant powder them the fumes will choke you to death while its burning off ( forever ) - the only thing is by a company called Jet Hot in PA http://www.jet-hot.com/import.html ( they do drag car headers and it does not come off my guess $3oo or so to do the small MB manifolds looks as if you are on the path to getting it done good luck -- jz

Perfect John! Yes sorry I didn't mean powder coating...wrong name for it sorry.

I am trying to find the Zerex G-05 which I understand is THE best coolant for our Benz's...it seems to be hard to find locally though as most places have discontinued it now.

Thanks for the tip about paper towels...but luckily I was doing that already as it soaks up better :)

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That looks like the plug Ivan. Can I be sure it should fit? Last thing I would want is this engine to continue to lose coolant at the rate it is right now (full to empty light in a week).


Here is a better picture of it:
http://www.ps2cho.net/downloads/phot...et/head_20.JPG

Here is the part available from another parts seller. The Freeze plugs are 34mm. I suspect the part you need is the same.
Get the part numbers from this listing and ring the forum sponsors. I cant find it on their parts list. It maybe labeled something else. Note that you need to use a small rubber gasket with this part.

I have checked the same plug on my M103 engine. It's exactly the same as the one in your foto except mine is as clean as - pristine (150K Kilometres)

http://www.discountmbparts.com/catalog/?N=11152+4294965652+1668+8479

Zerex G-05 is carried here by NAPA. Good luck.

hey you will need to put a lot of heat to the plug to be able to remove it but the block needs to be empty of the fluid - if its submerged it will never let it get hot enough - short of garage type torches i would use MAPP gas - home depot sells it for a hand held torch - you might end up drilling a hole in the top area the place the metal is still thick and using a 18 inch type screwdriver to snap it loose - if you have someone who knows how to use a muffler gun that might help BIG but stay away from cuting on the flat against the block it wont seal up again and will be a pita forever -- jz

Oh we got the plug out after some effort and the block was drained prior because when the head was removed, we didn't want anything leaking into the pistons from the heater hose.

Just need to replace it now :)

Perfect for that link the Oil Gallery Plug. Just need the seal now...seems that site does not carry it.

Planning to replace the chain tomorrow as I feel a little slack in it.

That last link I posted for the oil galley plug had the part number for the seal ring. Give Fastlane a call and find out if they have them. Worse case scenario a stealership will have them .... they must be only a few dollars anyway.

Nice pics. I recommend the MB coolant - I think you can get it on this site if your dealer has become too sadistic in his markup. You might want to repalce your water pump while you're at it, if you haven't already done that recently. It will also be a victim of the green stuff.

I second this, while my head was off, I debated about the water pump, but decided that because it was OK before the strip down, it should be OK after too. So I took a chance on it.

Now, I have a leak from it, from the rear of the pump. It probably was leaking before the stripdown, so I have another job to do!!!
All the best!!

^ Yes I was told it needed to be replaced so I have one ready to swap in. Now would be the best time with everything stripped off either way.

--

Well I spoke to Phil and he said he doesn't carry them and to call the dealer. I'll see if I can get the right coolant while I am there.

I've never called the dealership before -- do I just call a local one or is there a special parts phone number to order from?

I just call the parts dept at my local dealer.....they've always been able to get me what I need. Even the weird random stuff. :D

ps2cho, price a reconditioned MB water pump at your local MB dealer. It will be less expensive than a new one, yet a high quality replacement.

I bought a new Graf one for $140 off ********arizona (already have it). Forgot to buy a few seals though so gotta wait to put it in.

I also found a NAPA Auto store that carries the Zerex G-05 antifreeze! Bought their last box of it so I have 5 gallons now! Should be plenty enough :)
Did cost me like $80 for it all though lol!

you might want to soak the plug with PB Blaster ( better than WD 40 but it stinks BIG ) for a day or so and start out and using an impact gun to try and break it loose but wire brush it good before soaking it as it will get in maybe -

when you install it make sure the threads in the block have been wire brushed real well and than cleaned with laquer thinner than you should use a thread sealer to install

Permatex High temp thread sealant - px # 59235
OR
Loctite 567 PST pipe sealant with PTFE High temp
for stainless steel and other Metal Fittings

i believe they are the same thing both companys its a paste
DO NOT use TAPE it will leak its for taper threads on plumbing pipes

hope that helps - jz

Very nice and informative photos and information!

Hopefully my 88' 300SEL will not need anything like that anytime soon. ;) I have 155K and no issues, so hopefully its already been done. :confused:

So, when replacing the headgaskets on these, nothing with the fuel system or any fuel lines have to be tampered with? Thats good to know if they do not.

Nope. The MB CD and Haynes manual state that you have to remove with the intake side attached....but you don't as you can see from my pics. It's a little tricky getting at the intake manifold bolts...but you save yourself alot of time and hassle. Just push aside and pull up.

Thanks for that info! Good to know if/when mine ever has the issue. As mentioned, at 155K and no problems, I guess its not totally out of the question that mine has not already been replaced.

Nice pics, are you going to get the valves ground and install stem seals too?

What size pics do you post? Those are nice and large. Mine always get's reduced to thumbnails.

Those pictures are 1024x768. I just resized them in paintdotnet and hosted them on my website...

I'm sending off the head tomorrow to the machine shop and he's gonna clean it all up, do the valve guides + stem seals.

Got the water pump off today. Got a nice new Graf one waiting to go in soon as I receive the gasket from ********Arizona on Tuesday.

The lower left bolt is an... absolute....ly lovely bolt to reach :mad: You have to remove that crossmember that goes from the lower timing cover to behind the steering pump pulley which requires the pulley to be removed. After that I was able to reach it....but there is just not enough space to move the bolt otherwise. The other three were easy as the intake side could be moved enough.
http://www.ps2cho.net/downloads/phot...hain_guide.jpg

http://www.ps2cho.net/downloads/phot...premoval_1.jpg

http://www.ps2cho.net/downloads/phot...premoval_2.jpg

http://www.ps2cho.net/downloads/phot...premoval_3.jpg

http://www.ps2cho.net/downloads/phot...premoval_4.jpg

Last two pictures are just a simple spray with engine degreaser....Havn't even gone to town with a brush yet. Not too bad!
She's gonna be super clean by the end :)

Gutsy man! Congrats on the progress!

Gotta admit, I was gun shy about doing my own so I went the extra expense and had my indie do the deed...no regrets there, as I would have screwed something up when putting it all back together!

Thanks :) So far so good! A few surprises, but that is to be expected.

I was actually surprised how straightforward it was.

Maybe that is in part due to the fact that I left the intake side completely alone other than removing a few connectors and the two vacuum pipes attached to the head....Less mistakes for me to make!

There is definitely alot of residue from the use of non-distilled water...but it looks like that was from before me although I probably didn't help the cause. Should need a good few days worth of flushing before I put new coolant in.

The dealership really kills you on some parts though! They wanted $93 for a heater core hose! Found it elsewhere online for $19 :) Unfortunately had to pay $15 for three small cam bolts though as they are hard to find.

I'll have the head back on Thursday/Friday so with MLK day on monday, that gives me a long weekend to get everything wrapped up. Gotta redo the oil pan gasket as I screwed it up the first time then the head goes back in.

---

Oh question for the gurus: Will I need to redo/check the ignition timing at all? I decided I am NOT going to replace the chain. Gonna leave it well alone as it should be good for at least another 50k miles.

OK, rule 1 when removing the cyl head on an M103/4. Use an engine crane and remove it with the intake and exhausts attached. The reason is that two valves protrude and can get bent.

You will need to replace the valve guides because they wear. I used liquid CO2 and they fell right out, and the new ones back in. Get new headbolts too.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/tech-help/224199-head-work-1989-m103-300se.html

I just replaced the leaking head gasket on my 1991 300E with 150,000 miles on the odometer. The gasket was leaking oil in the usual spot. Had the cylinder head inspected and found the valve guides to be like new. Repeat! The later engines are NOT wearing out valve guides! Why throw money away when it can go towards things that are needed? New valve seals and oil consumption is now ZERO!

Aaron

I think I have some good news!

Got a call from the machine shop today that its all ready to be picked up. He skimmed and pressure tested it. He said that the valve guides were totally busted up...all 6 of them.

Could that be my elusive misfire after all?

http://www.ps2cho.net/downloads/phot...clean_head.jpg

http://www.ps2cho.net/downloads/phot...lean_head2.jpg

http://www.ps2cho.net/downloads/phot...lean_head3.jpg

http://www.ps2cho.net/downloads/phot...lean_head4.jpg

http://www.ps2cho.net/downloads/phot...lean_head5.jpg

Tomorrow is the big day! Everything is going back in. Gotta redo the oil pan gasket before I start putting the head back in though. Should be dead easy with the engine hoist this time around.

Looks nice 'n purdy.

How much did that set you back for the head work? Just trying to get an idea of what I'm in for later on.

Did you have any issues with the exhaust studs? I've already got one broken off and I haven't even pulled my head yet.

-tp

I have 260k (appx) on my 300sel, trust me... they do wear, just not as quick as the early ones. MB changed the design to a more hardened design.



ps2cho... did you make sure to install new valve springs too? M103 chains pretty much don't wear, check the tensioner "notches" and I'd be more worried about the chain guide on the driver side.

DO YOUR FRONT MAIN SEAL, you have it broken down. They can, do, and will seep.

Well the work cost me $218 and I supplied the guides + stem seals...so about $300 give or take 15.

No. The valve springs are perfect. I got no worries there.

I checked the guides and they looked fine so I am going to leave it. I don't want to cause any more complications. I did this head gasket to resolve my misfire and leaks....so baby steps :) To do the chain it shouldn't take more than 4hrs as I know the steps to take now. I debated doing it for over a week and I decided I am just gonna leave it be. The guides look okay and chain has no slack at all. I believe the fastidious oil changes have kept it in really good condition.

My head gasket set comes with the front seal so I got that covered :)

She STARTED FIRST time!! Removed the coil and cranked to get the oil pressure up and then reconnected. Started very fast and without any trouble at all -- Actually started up faster than she ever has before. Ticking noise at the back of the engine is also gone.

...So far still misfiring :cry:

...Still gonna keep my hopes up that the computer needs to reset itself and all the parts need to settle in.

If not, I have a very strong base to sit from now knowing that nothing mechanical is causing my misfire. I have replaced the entire ignition system minus the crank pos sensor....So that only leaves fuel delivery.

Gonna take her around the block (gently I might add as I should treat this as a new engine and build up before I give her an italian tune up :) ) and fill up with gas so I can see my consumption for next time.

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EDIT:
----------------------

I think it was very successful. I mean this is what I got done:

Oil pan gasket.
Head, intake and exhaust gasket, front timing cover gasket.
New Serpentine belt.
New Water pump.
New Block Freeze Plug
New Valve Guides + Seals
Flushed Radiator
Basically 100% perfect head and a nice clean block.
Painted Exhaust Manifold temporarily until I get it coated properly.

I just noticed though that my economy gauge isn't working....Must have missed a sensor or something? Anybody know which vacuum line supplies the gauge in the dash? I double checked everything and I don't see any missing vacuum lines...


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Here are some final pictures to end the head work.

http://www.ps2cho.net/downloads/phot...t/rebuild4.jpg

http://www.ps2cho.net/downloads/phot...t/rebuild3.jpg

http://www.ps2cho.net/downloads/phot...t/rebuild2.jpg

http://www.ps2cho.net/downloads/phot...t/rebuild1.jpg

Exhaust manifold paint looks a "tad" cheesy....but in a few thousand miles when it gets a lil dirty it should look better.

Have you try the seals around the injectors...?
 

I discovered (by accident) that my seals were toasted when I was using carburator cleaner around the injectors. I sprayed a little bit around the injectors and the engine (was on) inmediately reacted to it. I also read some people sprays a mist of water with similar effects.
Just a thought...

Injector seals are so much of a pain when leaking, yet so cheap to replace.
Starting fluid works great as a diagnostic spray also.

^ I've checked for arching. I have replaced so many parts on this thing....I'm gonna start a new thread to start fresh so I can get new ideas.

I had the car smoke tested for vacuum leaks (I think I'm gonna go get it done again after all this work just to double check everything...it only cost me $35 at a local indy).

The first time I had it smoke tested one of the injectors was bad and I had that replaced, and I asked him if the others should be too, but he said they looked okay....Think I should go back and have them all replaced for good measure?

A little squirt of starting fluid around the intake and vacuum lines in a running engine will tell you if there's a vacuum leak (engine will speed up). Just don't breath too much, and don't let it ignite.

Gotcha I'll give it a try.

--

Do you know which vacuum supplies the feed for the economy gauge? Mine has stopped working since the rebuild and I've checked over all the connections and I can't find anything missing....

On my 95 M104, there were some vacuum connections well hidden underneath the intake manifold. For me they were invisible and only locatable via the Braille method.

Ah found it by pure luck. It is located by the fuses and is yellow. Only reason I saw it was because I saw some leaves down there and as I glanced up I spotted it. Must have gotten pulled out accidentally somehow. Okay everything is functional. This thread is pretty much over.....all my questions will be misfire related which I will answer in my misfire thread.
Thanks everybody...hopefully this thread will help some people who need some visuals for head gasket replacements.

ps2cho, how experienced are you before undertaking this job? How much did it all cost vs. taking it too your indy to do? I've done brakes, water pumps and wondering if I can tackle this endeavor. Thanks.