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#1
11-08-2005, 09:38 PM
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W126 Cheap Window Fix
83 300SD – Rear driver side power window was only working partially. Would move up some but wouldn’t go down. Here is what I found.
 (LEFT) The broken white plastic parts and black tubes go on the end arm of the regulator and slide in the track for up/down window movement. The sleeve that the hole in the white plastic goes on has a collar. Can’t just buy a new plastic track runner because the collar prevents it sliding on. Doubt you can buy just that part – probably want you to buy a whole regulator assy for $250. Maybe epoxy the part and let it dry on the sleeve – doubt it would hold. You could probably drill out the rivet holding the sleeve/collar and fashion something. (RIGHT) The greased black rubber chunk is what I cut out and drilled a hole to replace the white plastic unit. Took 3 tries – kept making the hole too big and regulator sleeve kept popping out. The hole that worked was ˝ the size of the collar – took some pressure to get it on.  Black rubber chunk on the regulator sleeve inside the track. Greased real good. 20 up/down repetitions and it works fine. Time will tell. 
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#2
11-08-2005, 09:54 PM
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Interesting fix, but those white plastic 'slides' are readily available from the dealer, about $24.00CDN a pair. For my 85 380SE they were part no 126 720 01 42. Probably on many aftermarket shelves as well, and cheaper. Fastlane here calls them "Window Regulator Roller Sliding Jaw", Febi $6.96.
There are several threads here on installing them. I found the easiest way to peen the rivet (supplied) onto the regulator arm is with a socket same diameter as the rivet, used under the piece, on an anvil while you strike the head.
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1986 560SL 2002 Toyota Camry 1993 Lexus Last edited by donbryce; 11-09-2005 at 09:42 AM.
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#3
11-09-2005, 08:27 AM
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Those slides are about $4 from any Worldpac reseller, such as Fastlane. Rather than peening it, I drilled a 1/16" hole in the end of the pin, then assembled with a thin washer and a cotter pin. It's been a couple years now and works great.
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'82 300SD - 361K mi - "Blue" "Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement." listen, look, .........and duck.
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#4
11-09-2005, 08:29 AM
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Don't want to...
Dampen your enthusiasm - you showed some creativity/ingenuity there but Don is right, the part is cheap and readily available.
You might as well buy a couple next time you're near the dealer - I've replaced 5 so far on my two 126s. Seems time as much as usage causes them to crater. Kevin
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"Dangerous with a wrench...and not smart enough to know it" Stable (in order of acqusition): '84 500SL, 280SEL (Euros) '77 280SE. '90 560SEL '79 450SEL 6.9, '95 C280 (totalled by daughter 8/07) '81 280SL (rescued) '88 300CE '86 560SEC '95 C36 '01 CL55 DD's: '04 S500 4Matic (SWMBO) '04 F150 Crew
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#5
11-09-2005, 08:59 AM
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Its a shame that our cars have to be rendered unusable due to this little piece of bad engineering. The original part is crap. I replaced mine with a nylon roller plus a few washers and bushings. It will outlast the car. I'm all for field improvements. Let's hear it for Yankee ingenuity!
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1985 380SE Blue/Blue - 230,000 miles 2012 Subaru Forester 5-speed 2005 Toyota Sienna 2004 Chrysler Sebring convertible 1999 Toyota Tacoma
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#6
08-19-2006, 05:22 PM
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Quote:
Not really crap, just old. I don't think you'll find to many american cars lasting this long. Dave
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1970 220D, owned 1980-1990 1980 240D, owned 1990-1992 1982 300TD, owned 1992-1993 1986 300SDL, owned 1993-2004 1999 E300, owned 1999-2003 1982 300TD, 213,880mi, owned since Nov 18, 1991- Aug 4, 2010 SOLD 1988 560SL, 100,000mi, owned since 1995 1965 Mustang Fastback Mileage Unknown(My sons) 1983 240D, 176,000mi (My daughers) owned since 2004 2007 Honda Accord EX-L I4 auto, the new daily driver 1985 300D 264,000mi Son's new daily driver.(sold) 2008 Hyundai Tiberon. Daughters new car
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#7
08-20-2006, 08:38 AM
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Nothing wrong with the original part - just take off part of the outer plastic shell before peening to avoid shattering it with your hammer. Ask me how I know...
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08 W251 R350 97 W210 E320 91 W124 300E 86 W126 560SEL 85 W126 380SE Silver 85 W126 380SE Cranberry 79 W123 250 78 W123 280E 75 W114 280
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#8
08-20-2006, 10:24 AM
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If you want to see some REAL crappy slides, take a look at a newer Range Rover - I had to replace ALL the slides in my daughter's 200x Range Rover because they broke and the windows dropped to the bottom. Instead of using plastic, I made some steel rollers out of thick washers that should last the life of the vehicle. I think this type of problem occurs at the design stage, the engineers probably have very little idea of the potential stress the slide may incurr.
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Richard Wooldridge '01 ML320 '82 300D 4.3L V6/T700R4 conversion '82 380SL, '86 560SL engine/trans. installed '79 450SL, digital servo update '75 280C
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#9
08-21-2006, 05:44 AM
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Pete Burton's solution worked for me..no difficult peening involved. With this fix and fresh Syl Glide grease on the runner the window function is better than new
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95 E420 ( 76K) SOLD 85 380SE(125k) 95 SL500(72k)
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#10
02-10-2009, 10:53 PM
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where do i get some of those aftermarket ones?
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#11
02-11-2009, 05:03 PM
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Quote:
Right. I have lost count how many times I've replaced the window motor/regulators in my F150 and even my '01 Chevy truck's regulator assembly failed around 2004.
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I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look.  '85 300SD 245k '87 300SDL 251k '90 300SEL 326k Six others from BMW, GM, and Ford. Liberty will not descend to a people; a people must raise themselves to liberty.[/IMG]
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#12
02-11-2009, 08:30 PM
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The piece busted in my Land Rover back side window. Dealer told me they did not sell the part; I must buy the entire regulator.
 I took one of my Mercedes spares, split it in half and ground that half down to fit. Worked perfectly.
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#13
02-11-2009, 08:46 PM
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Nice hack, but why? Living in Cuba?
-tp
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