I am trying to replace my right tie rod and the tie rod ends are stuck in place.

using a tool to clamp aound the stterng arm and push on the tie rod end damaged the threaded portion. Also, I dont want to use a tie rod seaparator (the tool that looks kinda like a pitch fork).

All suggestions to loosen/unstuck the tie rod from the pitman arm and the outer wheel carrier are welcome.

Thanks.

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1986 300E (3/2002) Rear ended and totaled (10/2009)
2000 Xterra (5/2000)
1992 400E (11/2009) -Sold
1986 300E (12/2009) - Sold
2004 E500 Wagon (6/2013) - Sold

With the pitch fork tool in place, I took my wheel puller and used the pitch fork to grab onto and tightened the wheel puller until the tie rod end popped loose.

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1993 190E 2.3
2001 SLK230
1971 LS5 (454) Corvette Convertible

Use penetrating oil to help loosen. I have had the most success using a 2 or 3 jaw puller.

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Prost!

If you are changing a damaged tie rod end, and you are by now, there is no reason not to use a fork type separator. Don't bother with penetrating oil. A press type separator involves the least amount of adventure if you can borrow one, or purchase off e-bay,

Are you pulling it off the steering pitman?
I used a 2 lbs hammer and hit the pitman itself and sure enough the tie rods came off.
Why would you not use the fork?

To avoid damaging the threads when using a puller, leave the nut on the end of the threaded portion of the tie rod.

Thanks to all for replying.

I used a gear puller and was able to get the tie rods off.

Professor - the reason I didn't want to use the tie rod separator was because I had to remove the tie rod from the pittman arm and didn't want any blows going to the steering box.

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1986 300E (3/2002) Rear ended and totaled (10/2009)
2000 Xterra (5/2000)
1992 400E (11/2009) -Sold
1986 300E (12/2009) - Sold
2004 E500 Wagon (6/2013) - Sold

Next time, try this tool

http://www.peachparts.com//shopforum/attachment.php?attachmentid=62826&d=1231213889

...and when you use one of these, don't take the nut off but leave it on extending slightly past the end of the threads. When these things pop free they sound like a gunshot, and you don't want stuff flying.

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86 560SL
With homebrew first gear start!
85 380SL
Daily Driver Project

http://juliepalooza.8m.com/sl/mercedes.htm

Can I supersize my order?

I'm in the middle of replacing mine, and its really making me thirsty too. I know this is an older post, but thanks.

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1985 300TD Turbo Diesel Wagon
273,000 miles

MOST folks have the only tool necessary for removing tie rod ends. This tool is the good old BFH. To some this is simply a BIG hammer.

Remove the cotter pin if there is one and loosen the nut until a few threads are left so that when it comes loose, it doesn't hit something, especially you.

Take that BIG F'in Hammer and give a BIG F'in lick at a right angle to the stud of the tie rod end on the end of the spindle arm or whichever component this tie rod end is located in. Below the threads of the stud the hole and bottom portion of the stud are tapered. By giving it a mighty lick on the arm, you momentarily shrink the tapered hole which pushes the tapered stud out of the tapered hole. It's sort of like squeezing a banana at the bottom, causing the meat to squeeze out.

I have changed probably at least a hundred tie rod ends with a BFH. I have a few pickle forks that are in my tool box, but have hardly ever been used.

The BFH method of removing a tie rod end is MANDATORY if the tie rod end is to be reused. This is because a pickle fork will not only destroy the boot, but can loosen the ball in it's socket.

SO... go get your BFH and get this chore taken care of!

I had a issue like this and used a gas welding torch to good effect.

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99 Gurkha with OM616 IDI turbo

2015 Gurkha with OM616 DI turbo

2014 Rexton W with OM612 VGT