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#16
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Unfortunately, I never really got to the bottom of this. I just learned to live with the little problems. Now that its about 10 degrees outside, I won't be working on this again until spring. What I've taken notice to now that I've had this car for longer is that the clicking I speak of only occurs when the cabin temp control is set below max heat. If I jiggle around the temp wheel the clicking will stop. Also, I've accepted that heat will only come out of the defroster and floor vents and not the center vents (the air only gets slightly lukewarm coming out of those). I suspect the problem to be the unit of elaborate vent doors behind the climate controls. When I got a peek at it, some doors seemed jammed open while others jammed shut or even completely missing. I'm not completely clear on the problem, and I won't be until it gets warm enough outside for me to find out
Also, I can't get to the bottom of why the air coming out always seems musty and humid. The humidity from rainstorms seems to get buried into the system for days. For like a week after a rainstorm, I have to keep the AC on constantly with the heat just to keep my windows from foggin up. Any input on this issue? |
#17
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Quote:
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#18
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Quote:
__________________
1989 w126 136k miles |
#19
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climate control
you may have a vac leak or the vac pump is weak
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#20
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wow,ive been following this thread,and my 89 300ce is doing the same thing,no airflow comes from the center vent,even when its fully open,there is a noise coming from behind the glove box,i thought it maybe the blower motor,but when the blower motor is off i still hear it,when i switch the blower motor to high everything sounds normal.imgoing to check the black box,its vacum controlled,im wondering if this may be whats leading to my surging up and down idle,from a vacum leak,should the vacum unit be replaced?is this what most likley causes the weird noise behind glove box?
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#21
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ive been following this thread and its been very helpfull,im having the same issues,the center vent will not blow even on high,there is a wierd noise coming from behind the glove box,thought it was blower motor,shut blower motor,still makes sound when cold in morning,when switched on high cannot hear noise,fan sounds great on high,auto and off position give off weird scratchy noise clicking sound,from behind dash.also the fan doesnt change positions when pressing climate control blower locations,air blows from all vents except for the double center vent.
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#22
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As far as I know, heat never comes out of the center vents when the system is working properly. Side vents, floor, and defroster vents only.
__________________
-tp 1990 300SE "Corinne"- 145k daily driver - street modified differential - PARTING OUT OR SELLING SOON - PORTLAND OR. AREA - PM ME FOR DETAILS 1988 560SEL "Gunther"- 190K passes anything except a gas station 1997 S420 - 265k just bought it with a rebuilt trans. Lovely condition |
#23
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Does W126 heater/AC box in a '91 350 SDL interchange with 82 300SD?
Thanks. Also, pls point me in a better direction to ask this question if this is not the appropriate place.
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#24
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The 126 heater boxes are prone to failure of the flaps which turn the heat on down at your feet; the hot air comes out of the defroster vents instead. It has one vacuum pod which opens a door on each side of the box simulatneously to warm the floor at the driver's and passenger's feet. The linkage to each door is plastic and the plastic parts break. It's a tough job to access (remove the instrument panel, etc.) so i am living with the situation.
The only other faults with my car are at least one vacuum pod is leaking again, and usually if I turn the clomate control on before the engine warms some, the switchover valve clicks repeatedly.
__________________
Providing a home for these cars: 1951 Buick Special De Luxe 1977 Rolls-Royce Silver Wraith II 1970 Rolls-Royce Silver Shadow 1986 Mercedes-Benz 420 SEL 2005 Mercedes-Benz E 320 CDI 2012 GMC Sierra 1500 4X4 1927 Pierce-Arrow Series 80 1931 Pierce-Arrow Series 43 1926 Ford Model T coupe |
#25
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Also be warned that the plastic "pop-clip" that connects the vacuum pod on the driver's side of the heater case to the flap arm can break. At a certain point, if you really want things to work properly, a rebuild of the heater box makes a lot of sense. You can replace the disintegrated foam throughout, replace all of the vacuum pods, replace all plastic linkages, and get a replacement/re-soldered push-button unit, blower motor, etc. See my prior posts for details. If I were to buy a diesel W126 I would plan on doing this entire procedure before expecting reliable HVAC operation. You could also consider replacing parts like the heater core, expansion valve and evaporator. All of this stuff can and will break (heater core, expansion valve and evaporator not as much), so replacing parts piece-by-piece will probably just lead to lots of frustration.
Just be warned that you do not want to break the plastic "extension arms" for the footwell flaps when you take the unit apart. It is easy to do, and the driver's side flap lists for roughly $250 at the dealer.
__________________
1984 300 SD 384,000 Miles |
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