Ever try to find 13mm shank bolt? suspension w124

[scottmcphee]

Doing the 4 rear suspension links, per side. The top-most link (don't know the proper name) has a 13mm bore hole at the wheel end. And the wheel has a 13mm hole. Seems like a good fit for a 13mm shank bolt - which are used elsewhere in these links, but all shorter so I couldn't borrow one from my spare car.

The original link came off and had a shim bushing to adapt a thinner bolt through this connection. Wanting to re-use the original bolts (in great shape) I knocked the shim out of the old part, and tried pressing it into the new part. Even though it is a split and compressible design, it was too fat to press through the new part without damage, suffice it to say it got damaged.

This left me looking at two parts needing to go together, both having a 13mm hole meant for a bolt. OK, so just get a 10.9 grade metric bolt that has a 13mm shaft and put it together... Go find that bolt! O/all length is 8cm. Shank 13mm we know that. Threaded tip 3mm, the rest is straight shaft. Bolt houses jump from 12 to 14mm. Erg!

I fear finding the bolt, will probably require a nut size with an effective outside diameter too large to get a tool on it, in the little space between it and neighboring link to the front of it. Maybe why MBenz shafted it down to something smaller. Who knows?

Anyway, solutions / ideas appreciated!

[babymog]

Sounds like the torque-link? The updated link requires an updated bolt kit, your supplier should have known that. Cheap and easy to buy.

[richard28]

Scott, what size 12 point/triple square/xln sockets did you use to remove the bolts holding the various links? I'm guessing 10mm, but I'd like to know for sure before I start working on my '87 300e. Thanks.

[scottmcphee]

My car has pretty much all 17 and 19 mm hex heads and nuts on suspension links. Only one bolt on the forward most link (I think) had a hex key head on it - I had a key that fit (a blind poke) enough to hold it as I turned the nut.

I needed *every* combination of wrenches, short and deep sockets, extension lengths, swivel joints, wobble extensions, etc... that I HAD.. to combo certain things together to get at the individual bolts and nuts under there. Each bolt presented a new challenge, it's like a puzzle figuring out how to get at them. And for a couple links a puzzle to maneuver them from the car.

Was able to do most with car fully jacked up on one side.

Random Tips:

On diesels, remove the small rear belly pan covering where a gas fuel pump would go.

Unroute the diesel filler neck drain hose from the bottom suspension area outlet (drain to ground) to get better access to a bolt. The tube will be stiff an cranky.. do it on a warm day, or blowdry it for a while to warm up.

Block up both rear wheels under the lower control arm where it meets the wheel, then let the car down off the jacks - let it rest with axle in normal position before tightening the rear suspension bolts.

Oh ya, spray PB blaster, or equivalent on all all the nuts and bolts a few days in advance, then do it again day-of...

uhmm.. no matter what you do, expect to get real filthy. Wear a tight fitting head rag because you will be sticking your head into weird places.

[scottmcphee]

Originally Posted by babymog

Sounds like the torque-link? The updated link requires an updated bolt kit, your supplier should have known that. Cheap and easy to buy.

Supplier didn't supply bolts, just links.

EASY TO BUY: WHERE WHERE ???

I noticed a few updated looking things about the bones.

But they all fit in their places.


Just that one darn bolt 13mm... anybody andbody?

[babymog]

PM to ya.