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  #1  
Old 03-25-2009, 01:39 PM
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90 300E wont start!

Hello all, long time lurker so I decided to post:

Here is my dilemma: 300E ran fine, warmed up. Parked in driveway, back in one hour, engine turns and cranks and starts up for 2 seconds then dies, then crank and crank. No start. Towed to shop. MAS control unit gets resoldered due to cracked joint, engine runs fine for 1/2 hour then next morning, no start. Replaced OVP, nothing....starting fluid gets car to start and idle for 2-3 seconds. Pump get 85 psi. 2 months ago new fuel filter, caty, and o2 sensor. Does anyone have any suggestions? I know im getting spark because it did run for a bit, thought the problem was solved but alas...no success. Do I now look at the FD? Give me something to go with here.

Thanks for your help!

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  #2  
Old 03-25-2009, 02:27 PM
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Location: North Idaho
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fuel injection system?

I'm having starting/running problems right now too. Though it was fixed with the installation of a new distributor cap, but "problem" returned a week or so later.

Problem is when started, engine would die immediately. Learned to heel-n-toe the accelerator pedal to keep the RPMs up between 750 and 1000. After getting on the road, the engine would (sometimes) run normally. Well, it would run fine, when moving. But, when slowed down to idle speeds, it would die most of the time, sometimes while moving, such as when backing out of a parking spot. Very frustrating! I'm getting pretty good at operating this automatic car like it has a stick shift, (going into neutral at stops, braking with the left foot, keeping the revs up at idle speed or slightly above, etc.)

Asked a fellow at work yesterday...described the symptoms...and he immediately said it was the fuel injectors. He's not a MBZ guy, but understands engines.

This is with a M103 engine. Not sure it is applicable to yours. Worth checking anyway.
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  #3  
Old 03-25-2009, 03:19 PM
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The injectors i might check last, in that it ran smooth as silk day before yesterday for about 1/2 hour. Today he is checking the FD to make sure fuel is getting to it and then see about the injectors. I am suspecting the FD is the culprit, but clasping my palms. i did see some threads about the coil and the crankshaft position sensor, but the FACT the engine ran smooth for 1/2 hour leads me to believe otherwise.

Has anyone had this problem and solved it? Help is always appreciated.

Thanks!
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  #4  
Old 03-25-2009, 04:25 PM
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Personally I'd probably start with the Crank Position Sensor....
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  #5  
Old 03-25-2009, 05:40 PM
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My vote is for the CPS.

However, it could be a lot of things. Good luck!
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  #6  
Old 03-25-2009, 06:59 PM
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Just got back from garage, on the FD there is some kind of electrical black connector thingy. 2 prong with 2 o rings that was leaking gas. So he is going to replace them and reinstall to see if that helps, gas is getting to the FD, I have spark, so maybe its that, maybe not. We will see tomorrow.
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  #7  
Old 03-25-2009, 11:30 PM
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Sounds like the EHA...

I also had the same problem recently.
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  #8  
Old 03-26-2009, 08:00 AM
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Yep that would be the EHA....
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-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-
'15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800)
'17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k)
'09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k)
'13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k)
'01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km)
'16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k)
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  #9  
Old 03-26-2009, 11:03 AM
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Would a leaking EHA be the cause of the car not starting? It seems unlikely, but who knows with these quirky cars.
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  #10  
Old 03-26-2009, 02:06 PM
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My experience with a leaking EHA valve was a strong smell of gasoline from under the hood. The engine started and ran fine. Of course, the EHA valve was weeping gasoline ... the outside surface of the EHA valve was barely wet.
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  #11  
Old 03-26-2009, 05:59 PM
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Well installed a new EHA, started for 2 seconds then died. He disconnected the EHA connector, same result. I also picked up a rebuilt FD, tomorrow hes going to install that and see if it works. Could the CPS be bad even if the car starts and runs for 2-5 seconds? He say that if the CPS was bad, it not start up like it does....strange runs fine for 3-5 seconds, then dies and no start, cranks over fine. ANYONE have ANY advice? I may just junk the car if he cant fixt it. Hurts me to do that as its been a great car over the last 5 years and 150K miles.
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  #12  
Old 03-26-2009, 06:06 PM
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Fuel pump relay...?

behind the battery...
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  #13  
Old 03-26-2009, 06:37 PM
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Fuel pump relay

Replaced today as part of the mas control unit.
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  #14  
Old 03-27-2009, 10:46 PM
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Here in Florida we are forced to endure ethanol, such a deal.
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  #15  
Old 03-28-2009, 06:58 PM
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Its the fuel pump relay. Looks like a black plastic case about size of a pack of king size cigarettes. It can be repaired if you can solder. Printed circuit breaks where contacts are soldered to the board. Box is located behind the battery covered by a plastic shield behind the firewall.

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