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#1
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Cruise STILL jerky
I've got a 1987 300e with a jerky cruise. It feels like someone is tapping on the gas pedal. I've replaced the speed sensor on the back of the speedometer, I've had the amp rebuilt and I've lubricated the speedometer cable and my speedometer is rock solid. It would also seem that my throttle linkages are reasonably tight, but of course I can't really reach the actuator under the intake manifold.
I suspect 2 things: 1) the alternator is an AutoZone rebuild and does not provide real clean DC. Could an unstable voltage be causing the jerking??? 2) the cruise actuator Any help is appreciated, especially the help that doesn't have me buying and replacing the dreaded actuator. Thanks, Bob Kopicki
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Bob Kopicki Massillon OH '97 VW Cabrio (POS) '93 Miata '87 300e '76 GMC C-15 '67 TR-4a |
#2
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Bob
the GDL website has (last time I checked) a troubleshooting section on cruise amps and actuators.
Search the forum for "general development labs" TRY THIS http://www.fix.net/~gdl/trouble.html
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1987 300D (230,000 mi on a #14 head-watching the temp gauge and keeping the ghost in the machine) Raleigh NC - Home of deep fried sushi! |
#3
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Thanks for the tip, I've contacted GDL to see what they say. I ran their troubleshooting checks about a year ago with all tests passed. I'm wondering if the actuator is just worn out. GDL says what the failure modes are, but is the actuator "failed" when it "taps" the gas all the way down the road?
Thanks again,
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Bob Kopicki Massillon OH '97 VW Cabrio (POS) '93 Miata '87 300e '76 GMC C-15 '67 TR-4a |
#4
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If the throttle linkages are tight/sticky, then that might cause the symptom you are seeing. Just a thought.
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1998 C230 330,000 miles (currently dead of second failed EIS, yours will fail too, turning you into the dealer's personal human cash machine) 1988 F150 144,000 miles (leaks all the colors of the rainbow) Previous stars: 1981 Brava 210,000 miles, 1978 128 150,000 miles, 1977 B200 Van 175,000 miles, 1972 Vega (great, if rusty, car), 1972 Celica, 1986.5 Supra |
#5
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Some guys on the diesel forum have cleaned/lubed their actuators to improve the performance, old hard grease perhaps? Could also be the common solder joint problem on the PCB, does it correlate to hitting bumps?
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![]() Gone to the dark side - Jeff |
#6
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Am I wrong about this, but I've always been told that voltage fluctuations are the first thing to check with a gimpy cruise. And that includes use of light bulbs of non-European amperage anywhere on the circuit.
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1988 California version 260E (W124) Anthracite Grey/Palomino Owned since new and still going strong and smooth MBCA member Past Mercedes-Benz: 1986 190E Baby Benz 1967 230 Inherited from mom when she downsized 1959 220S Introduced me to the joys of keepin' 'em goin' There are only 10 kinds of people in the world--those who understand binary and those who don't Last edited by Cal Learner; 11-28-2008 at 07:18 AM. |
#7
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I've lubed the daylights out of my throttle linkages so sticky wouldn't be a problem. I'm not sure how "loose" the linkages can be before I run into the jerky cruise. I've not removed the actuator and tried to clean and lube it. It looks nearly impossible to reach - I was going to wait till head rebuilding time to pull that one.
Anyone know any shortcuts to getting the actuator out and tips on lubing it up? Thanks,
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Bob Kopicki Massillon OH '97 VW Cabrio (POS) '93 Miata '87 300e '76 GMC C-15 '67 TR-4a |
#8
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Oh, my voltage fluctuations may be due to a bad capacitor on the back of my alternator. Anyone know where I can buy a spare???
Thanks,
__________________
Bob Kopicki Massillon OH '97 VW Cabrio (POS) '93 Miata '87 300e '76 GMC C-15 '67 TR-4a |
#9
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The linkage is sloppy the actuator is trying to adjust the speed for slop in the actuator linkage
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