Does anyone know what Mercedes Benz calls this part circled in the attached picture? Thanks.

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engine temperature sensor I think. I know that one controls Aux Fans(electric ones).

Auto Climate Control thermistor temp input sensor.

http://catalog.peachparts.com/ShopByVehicle.epc?q=1994-Mercedes--Benz-E3--0--Sedan-Climate--Control&yearid=1994%40%401994&makeid=63%40%40MERCEDES+BENZ%40%40X&modelid=6391%3ABT%7C5%3AMBC%7C1508%3AED%7C10000022%40%40E320+Sedan&catid=242213%40%40Climate+Control&subcatid=242256@@A%2FC+ACC+Temp+Sensor&mode=PA

The ACC module is N22 and that sensor is that modules Input Temp signal. The N22 then decides on the different functions of the system...one being the High Fan trigger and another being the ac compressor cut-out temp spec.
So, it controls different functions and is not just an aux fan sensor.
Rather , it is a control modules temp Input sensor, and it is a Neg Coefficient Thermistor, meaning it's Resistance decreases as the temp increases. ..and that change in R factor is the value factor for each of the modules trigger circuits.

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A Dalton

Thanks. Only the part in the catalog does not match. Mine has four connector pins on it. When I disconnect the cable from this sensor, my aux fans kick right on at high as they should. But they will not kick on at any temperature at low or high. 30 amp fuse is good on the relay, fans do kick on in the low setting when A/C is turned on. What else to test and how? This is on a 95 E320 which has the coil wire resistor. Does my car have a pre-resistor that could have something to do with it? Thanks in advance.

There was a change in that sensor as of mid "95 E class production.

So, now you know why we like you to tell us the model/year up Front.

Anyway, same deal..except it is two thermistors in one casing.

The high fan comes On when you disconnect the connector b/c the ACC panel Module has a default circuit to trigger high fan for over-heat saftey in case sensor goes bad to prevent a motor Lunch from over-heat due to bad sensor or wiring....so you are simply causing that faulkt when you unplug...simple as that..and knowing that feature exist allows us to use that unplug for a quicky test to verify High Fan circuit.

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A Dalton

< But they will not kick on at any temperature at low or high. >

If you have high fan w/default, then you have verified the high fan circuit [ except sensor]
Just remember , high fan does not trigger until 107C,

Do you have 107C ???????????????


..and forget low fan..it has Nothing to do with temp..it is pressure sensed.

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A Dalton

The low speed is controlled by the red colored sensor on the A/C drier which comes on when a certain pressure is reached when the A/C is on.

OH..Okay.....................................

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A Dalton

You are at normal with your temps but I dont like my motor that hot so that is why I put a 1.1K resistor in parallel with the wires to trick the high speed fans to come on sooner that keeps my temp from 85-90.

That's what I am looking for, what wires are you putting the resistor on and are you leaving the wires still connected to the sensor they plug into or have you removed them completely and then jumped them with the resistor. At what temp do the aux fans kick on with your setup and will it work on a 95 with the way things are setup a little differently? What is the voltage of the resistor you are using? A picture of your setup would be great. Happy 4th. Thanks.

>Ideally, what is the best temp in your opinion for the fan to turn on? Is it possible to get the fan to come on at low speed settings based on a 90c temperature, even though they only turn on low speed with pressure? If so, how? >>

<>

124.032 HFM/SFI-104 system chassis run best at 95C Range.

The resistor is simply put across the sensor . [ the sensor used up to your chassis is the two wire/blu sensor the parts book shows, but you have the later sensor , so the only difference is the casing]. This is a parallel bridging of the sensor and b/c the sensors value drops with heat increases, the new R bridge changes the total R factor of the sensor to a lower value.. [ par resistor circuits Total R is always less than the smallest R] ..which the N22 module sees as 105 cut-in , but you now have tricked the module into seeing a cut-in at a lower temp. What you have done is actually put the sensor OUT of factory calibration, resistance-wise.
And that is all there is to it...BUT..
The N22 module that looks at this sensors values also uses that same info for other a/c operations...so, if you go to far out of spec . you can also effect other operations [ like comp cut-off at high ambients]
SO , I find a happy medium at a 100C cut-in..which will get you approx 95 cut-out..thereby keeping the coolant range in a good temp operating range for HFM system, and not killing your fan motors and alternator more than needed.
As far as 90C on low fan, that system is seperate, so many guys just run a toggle in the cabin across the High pressure sw and they can manually get a low fan anytime they want it..this is a good feature for towing or traffic jambs, etc..b/c it gives the operator a fan system manual over-ride w/o upsetting any of the stock circuit. Once the over-ride sw is not in use , you are right back to Normal System operation. The other advantage is with a toggle , you are still using the low fan circuits relay/fuse/resistor/etc..so you do not have to be concerned with any other feeds or parts ..just a simple $2 switch a some lamp-cord.
It comes in handy .... [ if one wanted to do this automatic, a 90C sensor could be added to the system in place of toggle, but I like the availibility of a manual switch cuz it give the operator Over-ride control over all systems]
So... a resistor for sensor cut-in for a $1, and a toggle for $2 for added feature of manual low fan..what else could a guy want for Xmas...!!!
On your system, before doing any mod on your sensor, I would first check it out as to why it does not trigger @105. That trigger spec may just be a bad sensor. And if the sesnors value if off from the get-go, the mod R bridging will be off also..the mod requires a correct sensor Resistance to start with b/c the value change is a combo of the bridge and the sensors R for TOTAL R factor.... [Parallel Resistance circuit]


Go here too..this has the newer sensor bridging picture. Just scroll down on first page... And the charts are there too

http://www.k6jrf.com/MB_S500.html

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A Dalton

Excellent! Thanks for the detailed response

Oh, so I see that he has pins 2 and 3 bridged with a resistor (value unknown, do you know?). Jim is a great guy; salt of the earth type -- very helpful indeed.

Thanks for all of this info. I am going to implement both ideas I think; the toggle and the resistor for early aux turn on. I will repost back and let you know if I have any snags and will let you see pictures of the finished product.

What value resistor shall I use to get my aux fans to turn on at 95c?

Thanks.

>

That depends on what value you have NOW at 95C with the stock sensor..[ which, as I said, is out of calibration b/c it is not triggering at 105C]

That will determine the TOTAL R factor with the bridge resistor.
The T/R is the R factor when both Rs are in parellel..so you must know the sensor value to compute the jumper value. Specially where you have a sensor that is not in spec value..[ if that is the case]

..and if you are going to go as low as with a 95C cut-in, consider you are then going to have a cut-out lower than 90c.....your call..I would not go that low cuz it is not needed and you are looking for both econ and fan wear/tear...
Personal preference and I have stated the reasoning behind a 100C cut-in on that model..if it were a V8, that would be a different story b/c they run hotter than the IL-6 104.
Regardless, you have it down now and it is a simple mod that works well.
My concern would be addressing the 105 cut-in BEFORE ANY bridging mods to that sensor. You don't even know yet if the 105C stock high fan cut-in is a sensor problem or a N22 module proble.. the ONLY thing you have confirmed is he DEFAULT high fan circuit of N22 is working ..nothing else...that is where I would be looking first, for sure...then I would tweek the mod to my preference...not until.
Here is a Par. R calculator to save you the math..
http://www.1728.com/resistrs.htm

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A Dalton