89 MB 300e w124 m103.

Finally got my pulleys in order, engine running like new again.

I read on a previous thread about changing brake fluid. I realized that I was one of those guys that didnt do that.

I go buy brake fluid, and start purging the lines, engine off. I started on the rear left, then front L, FR lastly RR. (I know, wrong order.)

The rear left didnt push out very much fluid. A few ounces mabey.

Fronts purged well.

The right rear spurted a little, No significant amount came out. I had my girlfriend pump the brakes a thousand times with no luck. My brakes worked fine before I did this. Can anyone help?

You have to keep the Master full ...there are TWO compartments in the res and the rear one has to get flow from the front b/c there is a seperating wall.
I suspect you don't have both compartments full, or you are not doing the pump precedure correctly.

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A Dalton

I made sure to keep the brake res. full. There is only one filler cap, I would imagine they would both fill from there?

My first time flushing my brake system on my MB. I have done it on other vehicles in the past, I thought it would be straightforward.

BTW, I have NO brakes now, My pedal easily goes to the floor, I can barely keep it from moving in D. With the car off, the pedal has more resistance, but can still make its way to the floor

It is if done correctly

As I said , there is a dam between the two res..so you fill the fill hole slowly and when the front is full , the remainder has to go over the seperating dam to fill the other.

If you pumped the brakes w/o knowing that, you now have lines going to the back full of air.

So , you do not pump the pedal anymore.

You fill the master to the brim , open ONE rear bleeder, and then have someone push the pedal down...DO NOT PUMP ...once the pedal is down, they tell you "ON DA FLOOR" and you close the bleeder...then do it again until you see fluid come out that bleeder.... never let them release the pedal until you have closed the bleeder....same w/other side.
Now, you can do the PUMP IT UP routine to get rid of all the air in the system.
Beat way is Pressure Bleeder.

I read in my manual about a pressure bleeder. Is that a sears run? I would mind buying a new tool.

So im guessing I pumped my lines full of air. I will inspect, and get back with more info.

So just to re-cap:

Check brake fluid level, (both sides)
Press and hold pedal, tighten bleeder screw, release, repeat until fluid squirts out.

Correct...the concept is that each time you push the pedal down, that much fluid will get pushed down the air filled line. So , if you close the bleeder each time , the master will not suck what you pushed down the line back into the master..eventually, you will have enough strokes to have the fluid push all the air out the other end .. the fluid chases out/replaces the air...that's all.

Just never let the pedal UP w/bleeder open or the fluid is just going back/forth..you want it going out the master, not returning..it is the closing of the bleeder each time that accomplished that. And watch the fluid level all the time b/c if that compartment get low , you are pushing air into the lines again..like you probably did the first time.

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A Dalton

Thanks for the help dalton. Its funny how the simplest procedure can totally baffle a person. I will report my anticipated success later.

It takes years to find the simple solutions..............I have long been a KISS fan, and I don't mean "da Band"..............

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A Dalton

Well, if you ever have any home appliance trouble, Id be glad to help

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Eugene

10 E63 AMG
93 300te 4matic
07 BMW X3
14 Ford F-150 Fx2

Thanks for that offer, but I did Appliance Service as a kid...
..which gave me quite a bit of experience with controls and refrigeration. which was a building block for later things. That was my foundation for KISS schematics.

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A Dalton

I missed something, KISS? i dont understand what that is

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Eugene

10 E63 AMG
93 300te 4matic
07 BMW X3
14 Ford F-150 Fx2

And don't forget to place a 2x4 on the floor below the brake pedal. This will keep the piston in the MC from going to far as to leak fluid out the seal between the MC and booster during bleeding.

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Don't Chrome them; polish them

KISS is an old school saying for fabricators,designers, and such...

"Keep It Simple Stupid..................."

Fundamental Design Engineering.....accomplishing the task with as simple a device design as possible ...so anyone can fix or replicate it.

Farmer design..... "get da welder ..this will work " ......

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A Dalton

brilliant! ill have to write that down

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Eugene

10 E63 AMG
93 300te 4matic
07 BMW X3
14 Ford F-150 Fx2

The other end of the spectrum from Kiss design would be a Contraption/Apparatus design...as in Rube Goldberg contraptions, where too many un-needed, odd-ball parts were used in a device design to do a simple task....and some good humor to boot....

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rube_Goldberg_machine

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A Dalton