i just realized that, doh....

If you're only getting around .1 - .4 volts AC at cranking speed, that's not good.

Checking around, it should be around 1 - 1.5 volts AC.

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A.S.E Tech A1,A6,A7,A8 & MVAC 609 + EPA 608

Unless stated otherwise, any question I ask is about my greymarket 1985 380SEL.

you mean at the crank sensor right?

ok, i plugged the CPS back into the ICM, and hit the key just for kicks. It actually tried to fire. im going to see if theres a bad connection somewhere in the vicinity of that plug i may have bumped.

crank sensor is reading 2-3 VAC on the 200 VAC setting.

according to shop manuals, the sensor is within spec at 794 ohms cold.

tried fooling with all the wiring around ICM, im not able to get it to pop off at all now. not really sure why it did to begin with.

Im about ready to throw in the hat, Ive been under this hood for 3 days.
I just dont understand what is going on. Evidently, there is no way to tect the ICM, other than replacing it. those suckers are $1000 at the dealer.

Before spending any money, how about checking the vacuum hoses on both sides of the Idle Control Valve to make sure they are securely connected and follow them to each end connection. Verify that the lower hose is connected to the bottom of the air intake boot and not cracked.

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1993 190E 2.3
2001 SLK230
1971 LS5 (454) Corvette Convertible

First check to make sure the rotor is pointed at the #1 plug when the #1 cylinder is at TDC on the compression stroke (both valves closed).

Then, get a timing light to make damn sure #1 is firing when it's supposed to.

You bought the car not running. You don't know if the previous owner tried to fix it himself or not; the distributor could be 180 degrees out of phase for all you know.

__________________
A.S.E Tech A1,A6,A7,A8 & MVAC 609 + EPA 608

Unless stated otherwise, any question I ask is about my greymarket 1985 380SEL.

WooHoo got it going! the P.O. had installed a new cap/rotor. I have had it off at least 10 times in this process, as it turns out, the rotor diode was severed in half underneath the plastic!

That would explain the irratic spark! Man, Ive been in/under/around this car for 3 days, had that cap off 10 times, oh well issue solved...

Thanks for the help guys, Ive become quite intimate with this benz in the last few days.

Incidentally, I bought it non running, never driven it or heard it run.
It drives beautifully, maybe the nicest benz Ive ever driven. it purrs so quiet I can stand at the hood and not hear it.


dhjenkins, slk230, thanks for all the help!

DHJ, the reason I didnt think it had anything to do with top dead center is because the 2.6 engine doesnt have a conventional distributor. the cap bolts to the engine, the rotor bolts right to the end of the camshaft. there isnt any way to set it 108 out, except by advancing the wires along the cap-which i tried too...

so, I went out this morning to start it, guess what.... no start. it tried to, then it then it went back to cranking.

Ive checked the OVP using the test written by max on here. im getting current and ground when/where I should be- I didnt check it with load but I assume its fine.

I did notice my ABS came on a couple times while driving, thats why I assumed the OVP.

I tried shooting the intake with ether, didnt change anything.

I pulled all the plugs, let them sit out and dry out, came back and still nothing.

checked the 4 pin coolant sensor for resistance, it measures 4000 at 50deg F.- so it appears to be good.

I rechecked the crank sensor, still measures fine.

I popped the fuel line off what looks to be an intake injector, it has plenty of pressure.I can hear the pump cycling, so it works.

WTF is the deal here?

If the ABS is coming on, it could be your OVP relay. Jump it with an in-line fuse and see if that starts her up. It could also be your ABS system.

When you say you hear the pump cycling, do you mean it's coming off and on?

Also, just because you have gas out of the fuel line doesn't mean you have plenty of pressure; granted, I don't know much about MB's, but there are plenty of domestics that won't run or start if the pressure is 55lbs instead of 60.

Again, with the ether not starting it up or running it, it makes it sound like it's still a spark issue. Get a timing light!

__________________
A.S.E Tech A1,A6,A7,A8 & MVAC 609 + EPA 608

Unless stated otherwise, any question I ask is about my greymarket 1985 380SEL.

I did this test on my OVP, (with the exception of the load test) and it checked out fine.

Testing OVP


By cycling, i mean i can hear it come on when i hit the key, and when i pause during cranking. I figured if there is a fuel issue, shooting ether down the intake will get it to fire.

so far, ether has gotten me jack.

When I got my W126, it had a bad FP, blocked tank strainer & blocked fuel return. I was able to start it and keep it running (at a smooth idle) with just ether/starting fluid (had to have someone else turn the start it).

Again - timing light!

__________________
A.S.E Tech A1,A6,A7,A8 & MVAC 609 + EPA 608

Unless stated otherwise, any question I ask is about my greymarket 1985 380SEL.

Well, stuck a new OVP in there, still nothing. The local parts store is allowing me to test fit parts and return them, right now they are ordering me a new MAF control unit. should be here tomorrow at 10am.

That's nice of them - see if they'll loan you a timing light.

__________________
A.S.E Tech A1,A6,A7,A8 & MVAC 609 + EPA 608

Unless stated otherwise, any question I ask is about my greymarket 1985 380SEL.

ok, I'll check the timing. there isnt any way for the timing to be out of line. if the cam turns, and the cam is in time with the crank...