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  #1  
Old 11-15-2009, 10:06 PM
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124 rear wiggle, jog, lurch....

Posted this yesterday on Diesel Disc., but then realized there are more gassers than diesels, in this case.

Here's the original post:

Man, this thing is starting to frustrate me! Subframe bushings?? They look suspect. The PO did NOT take care of this car. Let everything get so bad it wore everything out in the rear end.

I've replaced control arms 202 350 02 06 (lower center, or LCA), 210 350 33 06 (upper front), 210 350 34 06 (upper rear), 210 350 38 06 (lower front) on both sides. They were definitely all either shot, or getting that way and I have noticed improvement each time I replaced some (did this in stages, used new hardware pretty much everywhere - kept the hex bolts in places where it was tough to get the triple square bit into, re-used bolts were of appropriate diameter).

The diffy bushings are bad, what's left of 'em. I'm thinking the ones on the subframe are too. Lurches (sways, swings, jumps, call it what you will) when on the brakes, when going over a bump which quickly loads then unloads the rear suspension, and when accelerating hard, especially uphill. One important note, the problem is worse when there is weight - cargo, passengers, fuel - in the rear. Did the upper rear and lower middle on the R side this morning and then went out for a cruise with my four-year-old. Everything was pretty cool until we stopped for fuel. With 3/8 tank, I was feeling pretty good about myself. At 3/4 the a** end starts jumping! AAARRGGHHH!

Most logical next step? I'm leaning toward front rear subframe bushes. How hard - possible?? - without the press? I'm looking at Samstag right now!

Any input/help totally welcome! Why is the problem worse when there is more weight in the rear of the vehicle?? I think that is the key (I've been wrong many times before, though).

Jay.

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  #2  
Old 11-16-2009, 10:06 AM
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Got to thinking about this and from my experience of other cars, maybe it's a thrust arm (119, 122) or possibly a bushing that looks ok when suspended, but fails when torqued on...
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124 rear wiggle, jog, lurch....-rearsusp.gif  
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  #3  
Old 11-16-2009, 10:54 AM
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Done.

That's the lower front, 210 350 38 06. Already replaced on both sides. I'm leaning toward the 210 350 21 53 (107 in the EPC diagram), as it would bear considerable load while braking. I popped the ball joint end loose on the L side to check the bushings at the inner end, but did not do so on the R. Think I'll get in there and do that!

In forward flight, on level ground, maintaining a constant speed, the car is uber tight. It really feels pretty good, most of the time. I've just been chasing this for a couple months, and I want it RIGHT, dig?

Thanks!

Jay.
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On the road, currently:
'83 300D (German spec.) 168k mi. - - Wolfgang (tucked snugly away for the winter!)
'87 300D 375k mi. - finally went over to "The Dark Side"
'87 300TD 225k mi.
Cannondale 66cm CAAD5 w/Campy/Jamis Aurora
Hujsak Custom Fixie/Landshark Track Shark Custom/Ahearne Custom 29'er
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  #4  
Old 11-16-2009, 11:31 AM
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1993 300E 2.8- M104
 
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Rear shocks.

My car has a very unstable rear end as I posted here earlier. I came to realize that the bounce test is not sufficient for examining the condition of the shocks on these cars as it is deceiving. so bottom line is - check your rear shocks!!
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  #5  
Old 11-16-2009, 06:59 PM
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Dampers...

are fine.

Thanks!

Jay
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On the road, currently:
'83 300D (German spec.) 168k mi. - - Wolfgang (tucked snugly away for the winter!)
'87 300D 375k mi. - finally went over to "The Dark Side"
'87 300TD 225k mi.
Cannondale 66cm CAAD5 w/Campy/Jamis Aurora
Hujsak Custom Fixie/Landshark Track Shark Custom/Ahearne Custom 29'er
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  #6  
Old 11-16-2009, 08:42 PM
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IF the thrust arm bushings are shot, then the tail end will wag. When you are replacing it, go ahead and replace the other links too. I replaced all the links on my 124 and the rear end was solid and tight as a drum.
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  #7  
Old 11-18-2009, 12:12 AM
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Shim.

Bushing, call it what you like. Goes in the bolt hole on the wheel carrier, outside end of the "thrust link". I didn't put them in, until today. GOTCHA'!

Replaced the link with the ball joint at the wheel carrier, too. The car tracks perfectly, now, and those shims ended the wag.

Thanks to everyone who chimed in!

Jay
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On the road, currently:
'83 300D (German spec.) 168k mi. - - Wolfgang (tucked snugly away for the winter!)
'87 300D 375k mi. - finally went over to "The Dark Side"
'87 300TD 225k mi.
Cannondale 66cm CAAD5 w/Campy/Jamis Aurora
Hujsak Custom Fixie/Landshark Track Shark Custom/Ahearne Custom 29'er
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  #8  
Old 11-18-2009, 11:32 AM
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Location: Albuquerque, NM USA
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Pretty much every 20-year old W124 needs new suspension bushings if they haven't been changed recently. This is just normal and shouldn't be "frustrating."
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  #9  
Old 11-19-2009, 02:26 AM
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Location: Pac NW
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Thanks,

dufus. Last time you rebuilt the rear end on one of these things? Call me a booty if it has been recently!

Since I bought this thing in August I have:

R+R f+R brake pads
R+R front seats
R+R LF seat belt ass'y
R+R RF headlamp and marker ass'ys
R+R fuel filters
Dealt with a stripped drain plug on the oil pan while changing the oil
R+R engine mounts
R+R RF wheel bearing
R+R 5 of the six links RR, 4/6 on the L (including LCA, springs came out)
R+R LF window regulator
Aimed the headlights and foglights
Repaired the pump for the central locking
Adjusted the e-brake
R+R serpentine belt
R+R belt tension damper
R+R glow plugs
R+R dome light ass'y
R+R multiple bulbs/cleaned sockets
R+R injector bypass hoses
Next week I'm going to do the head gasket.

Not being able to get the rear end dialed was frustratin', a'ight?????

Cheers!!!

Jay

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On the road, currently:
'83 300D (German spec.) 168k mi. - - Wolfgang (tucked snugly away for the winter!)
'87 300D 375k mi. - finally went over to "The Dark Side"
'87 300TD 225k mi.
Cannondale 66cm CAAD5 w/Campy/Jamis Aurora
Hujsak Custom Fixie/Landshark Track Shark Custom/Ahearne Custom 29'er
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