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#1
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Window regulator bushing 98E320
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#2
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That looks like a variation of the infamous sliding jaw attachment on the W126 window regulator. On the W126 you have to peen it into place with a hammer. Not sure about this one...
__________________
08 W251 R350 97 W210 E320 91 W124 300E 86 W126 560SEL 85 W126 380SE Silver 85 W126 380SE Cranberry 79 W123 250 78 W123 280E 75 W114 280 |
#3
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Are you sure you bought the right part?
Even on a W126, two types are shown. Take a picture of your regulator arm and whats left of the old one.
__________________
1979 300D 220 K miles 1995 C280 109 K miles 1992 Cadillac Eldorado Touring Coupe 57K miles SOLD ******************** 1979 240D 140Kmiles (bought for parents) *SOLD. SAN FRANCISCO/(*San Diego) 1989 300SE 148 K miles *SOLD |
#4
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#5
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yeah but fastlane only sold an alternate jaw for my W126 and did not show the simple one I needed.
__________________
1979 300D 220 K miles 1995 C280 109 K miles 1992 Cadillac Eldorado Touring Coupe 57K miles SOLD ******************** 1979 240D 140Kmiles (bought for parents) *SOLD. SAN FRANCISCO/(*San Diego) 1989 300SE 148 K miles *SOLD |
#6
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that is the <$10 part that usually is the weak point on the rear window
regulator on a w210. it is not a drop in replacement as the 210's part isn't an exact match. if you've verified that this part on the 210 has fractured, this new part may be retrofitted into the 210 but you *must* drill out the rivet on the new part, use the green doo-dad to replace the broken white one on the 210. yes, you'll need to rivet it in some fashion onto your old regulator. so some labor is involved. if you opt not to use this 'replacement' part, your only other option is to pay for a new regulator assembly, which will run you upwards of $50.
__________________
-- raymond~ 47º 34'N 122º 18'W |
#7
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that is the <$10 part that usually is the weak point on the rear window
regulator on a w210. it is not a drop in replacement as the 210's part isn't an exact match. if you've verified that this part on the 210 has fractured, this new part may be retrofitted into the 210 but you *must* drill out the rivet on the new part, use the green doo-dad to replace the broken white one on the 210. yes, you'll need to rivet it in some fashion onto your old regulator. so some labor is involved. if you opt not to use this 'replacement' part, your only other option is to pay for a new regulator assembly, which will run you upwards of $50. __________________ Following your advise thats what I did and worked out fine. Thanks Raymond |
#8
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You can also just get new regulators on eBay. When I did both of my rear windows, I got the regulators for $30/each, so I did them both at the same time.
__________________
08 W251 R350 97 W210 E320 91 W124 300E 86 W126 560SEL 85 W126 380SE Silver 85 W126 380SE Cranberry 79 W123 250 78 W123 280E 75 W114 280 |
#9
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Raymond, which fix did you do?
Replace the jaw by drilling the rivet etc. or buy a new regulator? THX.
__________________
1979 300D 220 K miles 1995 C280 109 K miles 1992 Cadillac Eldorado Touring Coupe 57K miles SOLD ******************** 1979 240D 140Kmiles (bought for parents) *SOLD. SAN FRANCISCO/(*San Diego) 1989 300SE 148 K miles *SOLD |
#10
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both. first time, the jaw was trashed but also cabling was trashed and kinked
so you may as well buy a whole new regulator (sans motor). 2nd and 3rd time was for relatives and it was jaws only so easy fix. jaws are cheap but shipping was a little annoying, so i bought half dozen and just drilled the big rivet out, and put them in ziplock ready for use.
__________________
-- raymond~ 47º 34'N 122º 18'W |
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